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Old 21st December 2012, 07:22 PM   #281
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Do you have good experience from tiles glued to the inside? Never heard or seen that before. And I'm a bricklayer
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Old 21st December 2012, 07:47 PM   #282
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Well, when you go the english way and use thin ( 9mm ) wood walls bitumen is ok.
In case of 19mm chipboard you need something stronger and ceramic tiles work very well.
You can google " constrained layer damping".
The idea is to make a sandwich where the sound can not pass through.
The complication is to define the frequency range where this should happen.
Soft : lower frequency Hard : higher frequency
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Old 21st December 2012, 09:02 PM   #283
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Interesting thread! I will definitely follow it.

What's the total price of drivers for a pair of speakers?
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Old 22nd December 2012, 08:45 AM   #284
gornir is offline gornir  Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joachim Gerhard View Post
I am building the DIY version of the cabinets for the Satori Monitors. In the meantime the professionally made cabinets are build by SB. We still have not decided if we will offer this cabinets ready made or as a flat pack.
Anyway, here i show you how to build cabinets for the Satori Monitor with minimum effort.
We decided before on a Guru clone for the shape of the cabinet.
I am building it in 19mm chipboard. That is cheap and easy to work with. Some say that it also sounds better then MDF. I think it is not worse.
The dimensions are a bit unusual but not unattractive. They are 30cm wide, 40cm high and 22,5cm deep. There is also a 32mm thick baffle made from 2 x 16mm chipboard
to time align the drivers. I will round the edges and will look if the sharp edge from the woofer baffle to the tweeter has any bad effect. The wider then usual baffle has the advantage that the baffle step is not that pronounced so we win some efficiency in the fundamental tone area. The tweeter on the wider baffle will push the edge reflexion to lower frequencies. Would be ideal if i can place the crossover point in such a way that the edge reflexion suck out is in the region where the crossover already rolls off the tweeter. The front baffle is mechanically quite stable because of the extra baffle for time alignment. That way 2/3rd of the baffle is 51mm think. The side and top walls are not very deep, that also helps to make them stiffer then usual. The biggest unbraced wall is now the back wall so i decided to glue on a ceramic tile.
Very nice to see the progress!

Interesting way of dealing with cabinet damping. I usually use bracing + bitumen in chosen places and it works reasonably well.

I've almost finished my measurements for the Satori mid-woofer and it looks nice, but I used a less wide baffle for the measurements, 25cm with a 18mm round-over (r=18). I haven't yet decided if I will use a wider baffle or not.

The mid-woofer seems quite sensitive. If my calculations are right, they have without cross-over a 89,5-90dB 2.83V/1m sensitivity in the 1.5-3kHz region.

In the frequency domain, the mid-woofers edge resonance isn't bad at all and looks much better than the official spec sheet, at least on my test baffle

Will do some distortion tests today.

Regards

/Göran
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Old 22nd December 2012, 09:28 AM   #285
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Yes, the tiles work. You can simply use white wood glue and press the tiles down a bit.
I may also ad some on the outside to not loose too much volume inside.
I also found the edge resonance is less pronounced then in the spec sheet.
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Old 22nd December 2012, 11:46 PM   #286
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This is kind of interesting :The Renegade Tweeter Theory
I used reversed phase tweeters here and there going back to my early 90th Audio Physic designs. For example the early Step and Spark had a crossover less mid woofer and a revered tweeter with just one cap and a resistor. This designs had some problems. One of which where a suck out between mid woofer and tweeter when you stood high. To ameliorate this problem, the cabinets where placed on a special stand that angled the speakers backwards. The other was that the impulse response started negative.
I just tried to push that phenomenon as high up as possible. In result the phase response looked better then usual and this particular speakers where praised for the big sound stage they throw. In retrospect i think that this was not only a function of the crossover but also due to the rather wide dispersion. One famous company that uses reversed tweeters is Wilson Audio.
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Old 22nd December 2012, 11:51 PM   #287
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Here is a screen shot of an ancient leaflet showing the Step.
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File Type: jpg Step Shot.jpg (43.6 KB, 791 views)
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Old 23rd December 2012, 12:30 AM   #288
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What about building a box with for an example 8-12mm particleboard or mdf as outer layer and same or another type of wood on the inside and 10-12mm packed sand between? Like a sandwich. I've actually tested this with my own floorstanders, but only the compartment from midbass and up thus I got a big hole after replacing swans rt2-ha with Sb 29rdc. Even though it's first two 19mm mfd glued together + and extra 25mm and bitumen this can "ring" compared to now with sand in between. My knuckles hurt if i do a test. Really dead now. I think it was only around half a kilo for each.

More precise stereoimage and control, especially when played loud.
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Old 23rd December 2012, 02:55 AM   #289
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This is of cause a good way to do it, especially for DIY. I found also the " box in a box " construction works great. I pioneered that in the Audio Physic Avanti from 1989.
Here i had a very well damped and braced inner box that was slided in an outer box with foam rubber gaskets. Here " Air" worked better then sand.
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Old 23rd December 2012, 03:00 AM   #290
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Here is a picture.
You will not imagine what i tried. Granite, marble, steel, even lead.
At the end of the day when when resonances are under -40dB they should be inaudible because of masking. Some may think different. Listening to an open dipole or headphones is a good reality check.
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