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#111 |
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diyAudio Member
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Yes, i know this speakers and heard them on shows. He gave an interview that i found fascinating. I also like the no nonsense styling. The only problem i have is the sharp edge between the woofer and the tweeter. I made experiments with this and got in trouble. He uses a small waveguide though.
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#112 |
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diyAudio Member
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I think that his design can be used with some small changes.
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#113 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Sweden
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How thick is the mid-woofer baffle? My guess is that you need something between 25-30mm?
If so it's better to have the baffle straight at the top to get the center to center distance between the tweeter and mid-woofer as small as possible. If any diffraction causes an issue, use some foam at selected places (NHT style), to diffuse it. Regards /Göran
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Author of the "AudioExcite Loudspeaker Design" website http://www.audioexcite.com |
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#114 |
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diyAudio Member
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Here is another idea. sorry to say that i did not invent that ether.
It is a danish design. On the other hand i am not a big fan of heavy felt damping. It can be an advantage on axis but you loose energy off axis. I think i go for a Guru Clone. Nice word that is (: |
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#115 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Sweden
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Quote:
![]() The loudspeaker in the picture would have some tweeter diffraction isues and doesn't have the right amount of time delay that you require. I would also use an baffle with of at least 25cm, but that depends on how the mid-woofer measures. This would give an baffle diffraction centered at around 500Hz depending on baffle round-over. Also I would design the loudspeaker to have the tweeter at ear height or below in order to reduce the baffle diffraction issues. This could be a great speaker! ![]() Regards /Göran
__________________
Author of the "AudioExcite Loudspeaker Design" website http://www.audioexcite.com |
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#116 |
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diyAudio Member
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I think i will mix the Guru Clone with some other little ideas.
It is simple to make, looks good and will do the job just fine. There are many ways to measure the acoustic center. One very simple way is to measure the raw response of the drivers with the same time of flight ( on the same baffle of reference, the basket depth difference has to be taken into account too), put that into the simulator, reverse the tweeter and tweak the delay until they cancel most. The other way is to measure the transfer function, do a Hilbert transform, calculate the excess phase and tweak excess delay until it is flat. That way you have cancelled the amplitude response out of the picture. Last edited by Joachim Gerhard; 8th October 2012 at 12:24 AM. |
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#117 |
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diyAudio Member
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I think it is also a good idea to make the speaker somewhat wider then the typical monitor. That is a really good Guru idea. Gives the tweeter better support in its lower reaches and makes the baffle step not that drastic. Yes, i will place the tweeter on ear level and put the acoustic center in the middle of the tweeter membrane. That needs some more delay compensation though then putting the acoustic center between tweeter and woofer. From the geometry putting the acoustic axis on the tweeter it is even closer to the microphone. In the far field ( say at 1m distance or more ) the diffence will be small though.
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#118 |
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diyAudio Member
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Ok, when measuring the woofer it has to be placed on the measurement baffle below the tweeter vertically where it sits later.
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#119 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Australia
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joachim,
i will follow this with interest, i do have satori midwoofer and scanspeak HDS tweeter on hand. i was planning to do OB, but it seems i wont have enough space for them. So im thinking to follow your enclosure design, and modified passive xover or ACTIVE with MINIDSP using HDS. what would be your opinion on this? regards henry Last edited by _henry_; 9th October 2012 at 12:16 AM. |
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#120 |
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diyAudio Member
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I go for passive crossover.
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