Hypex Ncore

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Ah, ok. Just programmed a button to mute. Static still there when muted, but music still plays very faintly through the tweeter when muted.
Hmm. Either the mute is badly designed, or designed that way on purpose.



OK, a possible issue is that the nc400 is fairly sensitive (or has a fair bit of gain, depending on how you want to look at it). Great in that works even with weak, unbalanced consumer grade signals, but a proper balanced XLR stage is much "hotter", so you are actually giving away a fair bit of signal-to-noise ratio by having the volume turned down that low. If your normal listening level is somewhere around 75 dB, your "full volume" would be 121 dB.... I assume you haven't ever tried playing at full volume?

Sounds you could easily lower the gain by 10 dB (lowering the HF hiss by the same amount) and instead turn up the volume by 10 dB., but that involves the R141 surgery that I right now can't recommend to anyone... :/

Hmm, I don't understand all this stuff 100% so i'll have to do some more reading, but I do remember reading some stuff on the large mytek thread over at CA that because mytek makes "pro" gear, even this consumer dac runs really loud, or has a really hot output. I remember reading that not all pres will work with it because of output voltage or something. Maybe that has something to do with it coupled to the sensitive ncore?
 
You have the right cable connection block. Regarding the crimp terminals you want to pick one that is supplied as a bag (normally 100) rather than a reel. You then need to pick one to suit your cable thickness. Then just click on the various options that fit these criteria to check they fit the housing.

I have details of those needed to make your own power cable and if you are making shorter (or longer) cables between NC400 and SMPS600.

After all the work, I notice you likely have the answer to my next question. I am pretty certain that the female connector for the power cord is the VHR-3N on this http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/eVH.pdf. However, I notice they also offer a VHR-3M, which they say incorporates measures to avoid shock in high voltages. I am all about avoiding shock, just want to make sure that Hypex didn't us the 3m variant. I also think I am correct in thinking these are the correct crimps? Digi-Key Part Search?

One other question. Do you have to use crimp tool? Are they different tools for both?

Thank you
 
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Hmm, I don't understand all this stuff 100% so i'll have to do some more reading, but I do remember reading some stuff on the large mytek thread over at CA that because mytek makes "pro" gear, even this consumer dac runs really loud, or has a really hot output. I remember reading that not all pres will work with it because of output voltage or something. Maybe that has something to do with it coupled to the sensitive ncore?

I do all my listening and set up at pro levels, since that is the environment where I work. I have had no problem with the Ncore with those levels.

"Pro" level is usually -16 or -18 dbfs for +4dbu out, or -16 below full scale digital out making it 1.23Vac. Full scale out would be approx 7.75Vac.

Consumer level is the same -16 dbfs gives -10dbu, or 14 db less for the same digital level. (0.245Vac) , making full scale approx 1.5 Vac

(nice calculator at <http://www.pronine.ca/vdbudbm.htm>)

Alan
 
Easy now Julf. :) The dB representation is typically the attenuation going from 0dB (full throttle) to the lowest setting (-xxdB)

The 121dB, where did that come from ? (It would pretty damn loud)

If his normal listening level is at the setting -46, and my guess was that that would represent something like 75 dB of real sound pressure, then full volume, 0 db, would be at 75 + 46 = 121 dB.
 
I do all my listening and set up at pro levels, since that is the environment where I work. I have had no problem with the Ncore with those levels.

"Pro" level is usually -16 or -18 dbfs for +4dbu out, or -16 below full scale digital out making it 1.23Vac. Full scale out would be approx 7.75Vac.

Consumer level is the same -16 dbfs gives -10dbu, or 14 db less for the same digital level. (0.245Vac) , making full scale approx 1.5 Vac

Precisely. So while the default gain of the ncore, 26 dB, is great for consumer level, you really want 10 - 14 dB less gain if dealing with pro levels.
 
After all the work, I notice you likely have the answer to my next question. I am pretty certain that the female connector for the power cord is the VHR-3N on this http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/eVH.pdf. However, I notice they also offer a VHR-3M, which they say incorporates measures to avoid shock in high voltages. I am all about avoiding shock, just want to make sure that Hypex didn't us the 3m variant. I also think I am correct in thinking these are the correct crimps? Digi-Key Part Search?

One other question. Do you have to use crimp tool? Are they different tools for both?

Thank you

The part numbers is JST VHR-3N with crimp pins SVH-41T-P1.1

However the crimp pins above are only available in reels (of a thousand or so). The SVH-21T-P1.1 are available in smaller numbers but are for smaller cables.


I've managed to get hold of a few but through buying from a retailer.

I was pondering which crimp tool to buy but have decided to just crimp with pliers then solder as although I don't understand crimping properly there seem to be dedicated tools which cost a lot and different tools and/or dies for different crimp terminals.

Let me guess you next question - spades/fork terminals? :D

 
Okay, I've got a problem and have had no luck tracking it down.

I just assembled a quad-mono NC400 amp yesterday. Three of the channels are working perfectly, but one is intermittent. I've tried swapping the power supplies and all the cabling, and it's definitely the NC400 module.

I've adjusted the DC output with nothing connected so that when it's working it reads 0v. However I've noticed that when the signal cuts out it jumps to -300mv or so. Again I've swapped all the cabling and the power supply with no luck. Moving the module around doesn't seem to effect it, and I got out the canned air and cleaned the hell out of the thing just in case something was shorting.

At this point I have to imagine it's a defective module but I wanted to see if anyone else had run up against a similar issue. I reached out to hypex last night but it's the weekend so I'm not expecting a reply until monday. And of course I'd rather not mail the thing back to the netherlands if I can fix it myself.

Any thoughts? Thanks everybody.
 

The part numbers is JST VHR-3N with crimp pins SVH-41T-P1.1

However the crimp pins above are only available in reels (of a thousand or so). The SVH-21T-P1.1 are available in smaller numbers but are for smaller cables.


I've managed to get hold of a few but through buying from a retailer.

I was pondering which crimp tool to buy but have decided to just crimp with pliers then solder as although I don't understand crimping properly there seem to be dedicated tools which cost a lot and different tools and/or dies for different crimp terminals.

Let me guess you next question - spades/fork terminals? :D

http://www.revolutionpower.com/p/Furutech+FP-209-10+Gold+Spade+Terminal+Pack/374/


Well, I on the spades, was thinking these.. Might need a little trimming, but should work?


 
guys, be sure to use the best, high-priced spades you can find as these are way more important than the amp itself.

No, no, no! It's the power cord that is the most important part! You really have to balance all that impure "plain" copper between your wall outlet and your local transformer by a final metre-and-a-half of monocrystalline virgin silver...
 
Okay, I've got a problem and have had no luck tracking it down.

I just assembled a quad-mono NC400 amp yesterday. Three of the channels are working perfectly, but one is intermittent. I've tried swapping the power supplies and all the cabling, and it's definitely the NC400 module.

I've adjusted the DC output with nothing connected so that when it's working it reads 0v. However I've noticed that when the signal cuts out it jumps to -300mv or so. Again I've swapped all the cabling and the power supply with no luck. Moving the module around doesn't seem to effect it, and I got out the canned air and cleaned the hell out of the thing just in case something was shorting.

At this point I have to imagine it's a defective module but I wanted to see if anyone else had run up against a similar issue. I reached out to hypex last night but it's the weekend so I'm not expecting a reply until monday. And of course I'd rather not mail the thing back to the netherlands if I can fix it myself.

Any thoughts? Thanks everybody.
Have the same problem on one channel, but need to swap amps to rule out one channel of the source has a DC problem. I asked hypex about it thursday, no reply yet.
 
My spades cost me about a couple of pounds for 8 but it's fitting the cable size that's the issue.

My plan is to wire everything up after checking the earths then take pics and get confirmation it all looks ok and if it doesn't work then it's straight to Hypex but fingers crossed mine will be ok as there do seem to have been a fair few having trouble of late.
 
No, no, no! It's the power cord that is the most important part! You really have to balance all that impure "plain" copper between your wall outlet and your local transformer by a final metre-and-a-half of monocrystalline virgin silver...

O, c'mon, when you take your HiFi serious you have to start right there where your electricity enters the home:

de Groef audio - www.degroefaudio.nl

Only 32 Euro for a single goldplated fuse......
 
am I supposed to know this Hurtig guy? I surely hope no amp will ever be able to choke me.

guys, be sure to use the best, high-priced spades you can find as these are way more important than the amp itself.
the shop linked above also sells 50$ audiophile fuses, don't skimp on quality: Furutech High Performance Fuses - Large by Revolution Power

cinically yours, mr push pull :)

I accept your cynicism openly. Who knows or cares if it makes a huge or any difference.. I am almost $2000 in for the amp and power supply... So what's $200 of frivolity at this point? I don't believe it will hurt and maybe it ll help. I don't care. At least I will never wonder..
 
Ugly reused cabinet

Billede Olymus 018.jpg Picture off the linear supplyed N Core monos.

First time in my life I managed to upload picture ! I thought it was difficult. lol
 
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