I take your point about how they might look by a speaker but I think they'll still be ok and I want flexibility to rack mount if desired in future. Also, you can mount them vertically if you like in order to further reduce speaker cable length and hide them.
I think your design is a good one so I'm not criticising it, especially if you are planning on bi-amping (or tri-amping).
I will be making my own speaker cables so could use speakon however the cables I am making might not fit with the connectors that well so I'd probably have to buy some connectors and try them before deciding. Hmmmm.... ..something else to think about. I do like how neat they are.
Asking again, what size forks are required for the NC400 terminals? I will use bare wire if feasible but just want to have some available in case.
I think your design is a good one so I'm not criticising it, especially if you are planning on bi-amping (or tri-amping).
I will be making my own speaker cables so could use speakon however the cables I am making might not fit with the connectors that well so I'd probably have to buy some connectors and try them before deciding. Hmmmm.... ..something else to think about. I do like how neat they are.
Asking again, what size forks are required for the NC400 terminals? I will use bare wire if feasible but just want to have some available in case.
Optimal regarding what? I seriously doubt there's a sonic difference. Noise shouldn't be an issue either. Or am I missing out on something?
Bruno's thoughts on connecting for biwiring can be found in post 267, 2Aug11
some of his comments on cable dressing are 1243, 4th January 2012,
good pictures of a test lash up for the NC400 can be found at 2171, 13th February 2012
Bruno-
a request of mine is to change the screw in the loudspeaker connector screw from philips to hex drive, much better drive for tightening connector.
Alan Garren
some of his comments on cable dressing are 1243, 4th January 2012,
good pictures of a test lash up for the NC400 can be found at 2171, 13th February 2012
Bruno-
a request of mine is to change the screw in the loudspeaker connector screw from philips to hex drive, much better drive for tightening connector.
Alan Garren
Shoulda Coulda Woulda...
Do a quick search and you'll see it's a topic beaten to death in various forums.
The only case you might be better off using short interconnects and longer speaker cables is if you use single ended lines (esp. with all those "exotic" suboptimal cables around) and/or a lousy (i.e. high output impedance) source/preamp before the power amps.
Can anyone offer any advice/help with fitting light pipes and LEDs? I want a 3mm (or 5mm) flush (flat) indicator on a front panel of probably 10mm thickness so need to work out what to buy and how to fit it. I will also need to know how to fit the LED and what resistor to buy (I can probably work out the resistance).
good old Farnell:
Light Tubes | Light Pipes | Farnell United Kingdom
as for LED fitting, hot glue will hold it in place. resistor can be 0.25W or even lower and go for the largest possible value (experiment) as LED life time decreases rapidly with increasing current.
or if you're really lazy like me and it looks acceptable to you, go for a vandal type switch.
Since we're talking switches and LEDs, I have a question. The Buglin vandal switches with built-in LEDs come spec'd for two LED voltages, 12 v and 220 v. Am I correct in assuming that means they come complete with the appropriate resistor fitted for each of those applications?
That is, one version wants to be fed 12 v and the other 220 v?
Bulgin Example (one-page pdf)
That is, one version wants to be fed 12 v and the other 220 v?
Bulgin Example (one-page pdf)
I have seen the light pipes on farnell etc but they all seem to be mounted to a pcb (with an LED on it). What I want to do is fit a flat faced light pipe/LED or LED flush with the outer edge of a 10mm panel using the best and simplest method. I would power it off the aux/ctrl circuit of the SMPS600. I was going to use a vandal switch on the front (and might still do so) but am now thinking it is probably unnecessary and too big for the design.
I use a circuit with a single LED which only lights up when both smps600 are powered. I use a optocoupler to achieve this but it is possible to use a transistor as well.
I`ll post the circuit as soon as get to a normal computer.
then use a flat top LED fitted flush to front panel. the hole may need to be wider at back on the panel so the LED top reaches the surface of the panel.
In which case do you glue it in place and just solder a resistor to the positive side then shrink wrap it?
I am making monoblocks so just need it to indicate when the SMPS is switched on.
It seems this is more compicated than I thought as they seem to operate at much lower voltages than the 21V aux output unless someone can point me in the direction of a suitable 3mm flush mount clear blue LED.
(I think I might now understand this better having found an equation but help would still be appreciated)
(I think I might now understand this better having found an equation but help would still be appreciated)
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