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#4901 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
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Not going to resonate if it is twisted or braided. Oxidation isn't a problem with silver wire or lacquered copper....
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#4902 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NC
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If anyone needs cables and likes the Hypex NCore amps. I'd highly recommend these.
Interlink HG https://www.hypexshop.com/
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"Science is not a democracy"- Earl Geddes, Ph.D. |
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#4903 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Sunny Tustin, SoCal
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Quote:
Back before I knew how to design speakers, I spent a lot of time with the minutia of audio cables. Now, in perspective, it seems kind of silly. Pretty minor effects compared to speakers and circuits. But one effect that could be significant were mechanical resonances and associated microphonics in audio cables. I wound up using a wrapped conductor constrained with a matrix of teflon tubes to achieve good damping but also significant spacing and low dielectric absorbtion. But there's not a lot to fuss about in a nice quality balanced input wire, unlesss you add flavor by getting overfancy in the wrong ways. With single-ended, the cable starts to matter more. A very solid recipe for balanced is to use a twisted pair of your preferred conductor, with a dissimilar (different awg) ground conductor run parallel to the twisted pair, all wrapped with teflon tape (get the 1.5" mil-spec stuff from McMaster Carr), spray this assembly with some anti-static carpet fluid and slide into an overall teflon tube. Insert smaller tubes into the gap in the assembly at either end as far as you can, to restrain the conductor assembly within the tube, and make the ends more dense and durable. Then use an overall shield and terminate properly, generally "telescoping", or grounded at the source end, is a good choice. But it's a lot of effort and cost for a very small gain, in a short internal run of balanced cable. Kimber "varistrand" copper makes a great ground wire for this type of assembly. And now that I've given that all away.....
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I write for www.enjoythemusic.com in the DIY section. You may find yourself getting a preview of a project in-progress. Be warned! |
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#4904 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
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If the wire wasn't constrained within the tube, it would fall out. Putting a 28 gauge wire in a 24 gauge piece of eptfe is no easy chore. Braiding or twisting will result in the wire touching the inside of the insulation at multiple points, and will securely hold it. I wasn't talking about a 28 gauge wire in a 12 awg tube....
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#4905 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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What's the waiting time now for the NC400 modules and the SMPS600 power supplies?
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#4906 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: -
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Quote:
Or you could always drop sales (at) hypex (dot) nl an email. |
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#4907 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NC
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__________________
"Science is not a democracy"- Earl Geddes, Ph.D. |
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#4908 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: West Riding of Yorkshire, England
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The cases that I am going to use for my Ncores will allow me to mount the PS and the amp modules on opposite sides of a vertical 2mm aluminum sheet. I will also mount them as far apart in the vertical plane as the power connector lead will allow. So I'm looking to minimize the magnetic field interaction as much as possible in this way. Any comments from those who know about these things?
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#4909 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Saddleworth
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Quote:
Keep psu harness and speaker cables as sensibly away from each other as you can Twist psu and speaker cables as much as you can Otherwise don't worry
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