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Old 10th July 2012, 10:04 PM   #4801
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StigErik View Post
Yes of course, but that does not make Class D digital.
Can I route a DSD signal directly to the switching controller's input of a PWM amp, without any D-A conversion? On what conditions?
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Old 11th July 2012, 06:17 AM   #4802
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Originally Posted by tinitus View Post

instead of being so pleased with yourself, do the diy thing and build something
or just listen to some music, and enjoy your life a bit more
but please, stop wasting our time with crap
Well said
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Old 11th July 2012, 08:00 AM   #4803
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Anyone miss Frank de Grove? I do.
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Old 11th July 2012, 08:20 AM   #4804
Julf is offline Julf  Europe
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Originally Posted by serengetiplains View Post
Anyone miss Frank de Grove? I do.
OK, so that explains it - you are just trying to go for the "10.000 postings" award.
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Old 11th July 2012, 10:36 PM   #4805
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Originally Posted by cab View Post
Are there any fundamental, objective reasons why bridging the ncore amps would improve their performance (not just increase the power) so as to improve the sound?
Bruno stated that the great big UcD amp is simply a bridging of smaller ones. A result is seen at the minimum load impedance figure. Bridging is for increased output for very little sonic penalty. Such penalty would occur in most of the power band, but as clipping nears the bridged amp would have advantage. Also a speaker with very low impedance in a large portion of the audio band could suffer a little bit from a bridged circuit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by badman View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Lord View Post
Everybody and his cousin mounts TO220s without heatsinks, in spite of the 85% or so reduction in rated dissipation. So the heatsink police won't come knocking at your door... this time.
Any harm in adding some heatsinks? I was thinking clip-on types with one half cut off, so that it presents a vertical profile to the board components (read: doesn't overhang anything). Are the heatsink tabs grounded? do they need to be isolated from one another? I hope the attached diagram makes it clear.
1) Harm: Usually not but it depends. There is no reason to ground the heatsink that I can think of. EDIT: Well in some very sensitive circuits, you might want to avoid antenna effects from the heatsink, which could occur even through the capacitance with an insulated TO220 tab, *possibly*. I would always use an insulator between heatsink and tab, mostly for safety reasons but also to avoid any unlikely but possible odd behavior that could result from the conduction with the tab. Coupling heatsinks is done to keep the gain of complementary devices on the same thermal track, but is of no benefit for other devices like regulators. Even when the worst-case TDP of the TO220 in a given circuit doesn't demand a heatsink, longevity and improved performance are great reasons to use the heatsinks if there is room...there usually isn't. But always be aware that a big heatsink can raise the TDP of a TO220 to tens of watts from just 3-5 watts, depending on the device. I prefer TO225 packages, their design can dissipate more (only when heatsinked) than the TO220 in some devices, but the TO220 package is ubiquitous.

Last edited by Sam Lord; 11th July 2012 at 10:44 PM.
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Old 12th July 2012, 03:02 PM   #4806
badman is offline badman  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Lord View Post
Bruno stated that the great big UcD amp is simply a bridging of smaller ones. A result is seen at the minimum load impedance figure. Bridging is for increased output for very little sonic penalty. Such penalty would occur in most of the power band, but as clipping nears the bridged amp would have advantage. Also a speaker with very low impedance in a large portion of the audio band could suffer a little bit from a bridged circuit.

1) Harm: Usually not but it depends. There is no reason to ground the heatsink that I can think of. EDIT: Well in some very sensitive circuits, you might want to avoid antenna effects from the heatsink, which could occur even through the capacitance with an insulated TO220 tab, *possibly*. I would always use an insulator between heatsink and tab, mostly for safety reasons but also to avoid any unlikely but possible odd behavior that could result from the conduction with the tab. Coupling heatsinks is done to keep the gain of complementary devices on the same thermal track, but is of no benefit for other devices like regulators. Even when the worst-case TDP of the TO220 in a given circuit doesn't demand a heatsink, longevity and improved performance are great reasons to use the heatsinks if there is room...there usually isn't. But always be aware that a big heatsink can raise the TDP of a TO220 to tens of watts from just 3-5 watts, depending on the device. I prefer TO225 packages, their design can dissipate more (only when heatsinked) than the TO220 in some devices, but the TO220 package is ubiquitous.
Thanks- my concern was for any residual RF, and I was going to use uninsulated sinks, but heck, an insulator and a 'lil hunk of aluminum would go a long way with how hot these get. I'll add them and report back what I see, if that 85 degrees gets down somewhere more manageable.
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Old 13th July 2012, 07:40 PM   #4807
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How did you Punch the hole? I am thinking about getting the same case
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Old 13th July 2012, 11:28 PM   #4808
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Default Quick build question...

I am deciding on how to terminate the speaker wire leads to the nCore module. My first plan is to use silver plated copper wire, and use it without tinning in order to obtain the best contact in the terminal clamp. I know the wire will creep over time allowing the terminal connection to loosen, so my plan is to check it daily for a few days, and tighten the terminal screw to take up the slack. After a couple tightenings like this, I suspect it will settle down and remain tight for a long time.
The other option is to go ahead and tin the wire, and tighten twice, but the connection with the terminal will not be nearly as good.
What do you folks think?
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Old 14th July 2012, 12:55 AM   #4809
3lviz is offline 3lviz  Finland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barrows View Post
After a couple tightenings like this, I suspect it will settle down and remain tight for a long time.
The other option is to go ahead and tin the wire, and tighten twice, but the connection with the terminal will not be nearly as good.
What do you folks think?
Third option is to use small fork (or ring) terminals attached to the speaker cables with a crimping tool and bent 90 degrees from the joint. I think that is the way the speaker terminals are meant to be used especially with thick speaker cables.

Something like this:
http://servcat.com/catalog.asp?product=5261295
(I am not sure if the ones in the picture are correct size tho)
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Old 14th July 2012, 01:04 AM   #4810
jtwrace is offline jtwrace  United States
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I used 12AWG DH Labs wire (silver plated copper) bare on the terminal end. Did exactly as you said...checked the torque for a few days and it was fine and still is after a few months.
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