OK, so either you have to attenuate the signal going to the J2 (and live with the fact that you won't be able to achieve full power), amplify the signal coming out of the MiniDSP, or increase the gain of the LF amp. Not sure about the nc500, but on the nc400 you can change the value of the feedback resistor (increasing the gain lowers the feedback ratio, so it might have minor sound quality implications).
Are you aware of how many stages of EQ pretty much any modern recorded music has passed through by the time it reaches your system? Have you tried (blind) listening tests to see if you can detect the MiniDSP being in the path (but set to no EQ)?
Or just two resistors per channel (they do exactly the same thing). The problem with an attenuator is that it won't allow wyan to achieve full power out of his/her system.
"DIY power cord":
- 3 m of decent 3-pole 16 A cable
- one IEC connector
- one power plug
Mr Julf may be right
Friend of mine spent a fortune buying £30p/m cable (triple shielded/Silver) from a German company, soldered with high purity Audiophile Silver solder (carefully soldered minimal joints) and copper/gold IEC connectors.
Made things sound a bit WORSE!!!! Lost some bass and treble sounded a touch more grainy...still don't understand this, as I'm not a cable believer, but the cheap IEC computer mains sounds best lol
Friend of mine spent a fortune buying £30p/m cable (triple shielded/Silver) from a German company, soldered with high purity Audiophile Silver solder (carefully soldered minimal joints) and copper/gold IEC connectors.
Made things sound a bit WORSE!!!! Lost some bass and treble sounded a touch more grainy...still don't understand this, as I'm not a cable believer, but the cheap IEC computer mains sounds best lol
The characteristics of a good power cable for a class D amp are pretty darn well understood - low resistance and inductance, and preferably a symmetric design to attenuate common-mode noise. Have you seen any "audiophile" power cables that actually specify any of those parameters?
hypex ncore
Cables are like filters, they must be matched to the system based on the attributes your looking for. On my latest active set, I'm using 3 different brands of cables on the different drivers to get the sound I was looking for. I'm using silver plated copper for the woofers, but they sounded horrible on the ribbon tweeters.
You notice the sound of speaker cables much more when your going straight from the amps to the drivers with no passive crossovers in the signal path.
Cables are like filters, they must be matched to the system based on the attributes your looking for. On my latest active set, I'm using 3 different brands of cables on the different drivers to get the sound I was looking for. I'm using silver plated copper for the woofers, but they sounded horrible on the ribbon tweeters.
You notice the sound of speaker cables much more when your going straight from the amps to the drivers with no passive crossovers in the signal path.
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Some are, some are not. Sometimes it is needed, most of the time it isn't.
Are you talking about mains cables (as ti33er) is, or about speaker cables?
...for Mains, twisting cable might help with Hum I have thought, but that's it - speculation on the AG Silver mains cable my friend constructed, we suspect there could be some sort of oscillation between the different metals that have differing resistances. Silver seems to add hash/noise, every time I've thought something has changed when playing with cables; however straight copper there is no difference, unless it's too thin for purpose (AWG)?
I know there are many who will argue about cables, but to my mind, once you're on a PCB it's all copper anyway, as intended.
I know there are many who will argue about cables, but to my mind, once you're on a PCB it's all copper anyway, as intended.
I know there are many who will argue about cables, but to my mind, once you're on a PCB it's all copper anyway, as intended.
That, and all the distance from the local transformer (and all the miles from the power station)
Wyan, just my $0.02. I "solved" my gain issues with miniDSP by adding the miniDigi and goin all digital from PC and Sonos. Then into a Dacmagic that puts out 2V. May not work in your setup but could give you new ideas [emoji1]
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There are a heck of a lot of DACs out there that are pretty much exact implementations of the reference design in the chip manufacturers application note...
hypex ncore
It's not just another version of a reference design. It's bone stock Hypex boards in a box. Nothing wrong with doing this, but it's going to be a bit boring when we have 10 manufacturers building the exact same thing in a different box all trying to undercut each other's price. Maybe the next guy will sell them for 800GBP's per pair.
Personally I'd rather see amps the same price as the Atash 500's but with a better buffer stage. Then the product would be a unique offering, with an edge over the Atash
It's not just another version of a reference design. It's bone stock Hypex boards in a box. Nothing wrong with doing this, but it's going to be a bit boring when we have 10 manufacturers building the exact same thing in a different box all trying to undercut each other's price. Maybe the next guy will sell them for 800GBP's per pair.
Personally I'd rather see amps the same price as the Atash 500's but with a better buffer stage. Then the product would be a unique offering, with an edge over the Atash
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I could offer something if I wanted to. But I think this space is already too crowded. I'm just using the NC500's as an amp solution in a complete integrated system. I believe the future of audio is having all components in the chain to be designed as a whole.
Thanks. I will look into it. It is not about overall gain. It is about increase the gain for the LF to compensate the loss due to EQ.
Basically, I am just wanting a very good plate amp, which offers flexible EQ, gain to compensate the loss due to EQ, and sound quality simliar to ncore.
QSC DSP + ncore is close but QSC's is product designed a few years ago and it is not very possible to hide it inside of the chassis.
Anyhow, I have sold off nc400 amps and live with plate amp for a while. Keep searching for a good DSP module and when the right time comes, I will buy a nc500 stereo.
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