hypex ncore

[robbbby]

Ended up just putting 1uf, didn't put any resistors.

[Zachen]

I have had the Ncores up and running for a couple of weeks now and I am blown away! I do acknowledge the fact that my previous amplifier might not be of comparable quality, but still the Ncores are miles ahead (and about $1000 cheaper as well).

The resolution and placement of instruments/sounds is top notch, tight and controlled bass. The level of detail is like nothing I have heard before. “Relaxed” sound with plenty dynamics, never runs out of steam. The match with my Kora Eclipse tube-pre is perfect in my ears (had to reduce the gain though).

Loving them and possibly the most evident upgrade I have done in my system in years. It’s a keeper and I think that this might be my last and final amplifier (until it dies sometime in the future)




System: Nas > MacMini > Benchmark Dac1 > Kora eclipse Tube-pre > Ncores > Energy Veritas 1.8

[Julf]

Originally Posted by waltzingbear

its not a problem. just take out the screws and lift off. Just the heat sink compound is all that's holding it at that point.

Did that, and everything looked fine on the underside. Had another look at the topside, and seems one of the solder pads fro R141 has shifted - so probably damage to the tracks in the inside layers of the PCB. Might be possible to bridge over the damage if I had the circuit diagram, but...

Sounds like I'd better join the queue for a new one from the next batch...

[Mark.Clappers]

Julf,

If it is just 1 solder pad of a SMD resistor, you should be fine. Just means the copper has lifted of the glassfiber layer, can happen when to much heat / mechanical pressure is applied (happened to me to much at work before I used a microscoop). Just make sure it doesn't touch anything else on the board.

[Julf]

Originally Posted by Mark.Clappers

Mark,

If it is just 1 solder pad of a SMD resistor, you should be fine. Just means the copper has lifted of the glassfiber layer, can happen when to much heat / mechanical pressure is applied (happened to me to much at work before I used a microscoop). Just make sure it doesn't touch anything else on the board.

That's the problem - everything else looks OK. Can't find anything else wrong. It just doesn't work

[Mark.Clappers]

Did you have a look with a microscoop? I use a stereo scoop with 10X magnification, with this I am able to see the tiny solder briges that are sometimes left behind when removing smd components, with the naked eye these are very hard to spot. Sometimes it also helps to use a hot air desoldering iron to "reflow" the solder joints.

[Erlend Sæterdal]

Always use 2 solder irons when removing SMD components .

[Mark.Clappers]

That's one way to do it. But if they are 0603 devices or smaller I use a 2mm flat tip with a blob of solder. Works like a charm!

[Erlend Sæterdal]

Originally Posted by Sam Lord

I've never seen that. If the total ESR of the filter caps is no higher and the rail voltage is not lower, you should have no PS-related degradation, but rather improvement.

Glad it's working now!


People reach across borders towards a common goal! It's inspiring, just to die for.
...........
This just in:

TITANIC 'UNLIKELY' TO SINK AGAIN, says prof -- TITANIC 'UNLIKELY' TO SINK AGAIN, says prof - apparently ? The Register

I got an LC Audio The End Xp ,that one got " slower " with bigger capacity. I think it had something to do with the toplologi. It was a non feedback amp. I hate Non fedback amps from now on.

[Erlend Sæterdal]

Originally Posted by Mark.Clappers

That's one way to do it. But if they are 0603 devices or smaller I use a 2mm flat tip with a blob of solder. Works like a charm!

Perfect I use that method for smd Dac chips, a lot of solder on both sides .