Hypex Ncore

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So you did not look at the AC line with dimmers shut off, and other noisy stuff unplugged? My previous experience suggests that dimmers are just about the worst offenders in this regard, and that their noise would swamp just about anything else on the circuit (or even in parallel back at the box).
I removed all the dimmers from my home...

No, I did not shut off everything. I don't think any of my audio stuff is "high end" enough to be so badly designed that they would be affected :)

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
I have a couple of bybees left over from a tweeke-craze a couple of years ago. Any thoughts on using those instead of speaker cables in my build? I guess most of you think they have no function (Im not sure either) but can they make any harm?

Well, considering the nc400 has an extremely low output impedance, and a pretty good current drive capacity, I would at least make sure I wouldn't compromise that with anything that has a high impedance, or can't carry the current.
 
Well, considering the nc400 has an extremely low output impedance, and a pretty good current drive capacity, I would at least make sure I wouldn't compromise that with anything that has a high impedance, or can't carry the current.

How about sticking them in the supply leads instead?
-If they cause some serial resistance then probably best on the front end, though.

Could be interesting if you would report if they appear to cause any change.
 
Bybees...

Have virtually 0 ohms R. They are just a piece of wire, surrounded by the "special" materials, and so only the R of the wire itself, which is 14 gauge on the large ones. But, for speaker use, if they do anything good at all, they would be better employed after the speaker cable at the speaker itself (even better at the speaker driver terminals) as they will reduce noise induced by the speaker cables (supposedly).
 
Have virtually 0 ohms R. They are just a piece of wire, surrounded by the "special" materials, and so only the R of the wire itself, which is 14 gauge on the large ones. But, for speaker use, if they do anything good at all, they would be better employed after the speaker cable at the speaker itself (even better at the speaker driver terminals) as they will reduce noise induced by the speaker cables (supposedly).

hmm...
That seems to leave the `voodoo´ for supply leads then. 14 guage shouldn´t be a problem for either supply lead.
 
I need some help with my soft start button selection.

I am considering this:
Metal LED Push Button Switch (Blue Ring, Momentary) | eBay
posted a while ago by mr_push_pull.

Can someone tell me if this will work with the SMPS600? Will I have to connect it to the auxiliary power and consequently need a resistor for 230V?

Would you suggest another button at the same price range or is it OK?

Thanks in advance!
 
I will be using a similar but non illuminating switch on the rear for my build (due to space considerations as I couldn't get a suitable rocker) and a separate LED. The switch range I looked at was Schurter (and bought). Strangely though the blue LED versions were a lot more expensive than any other colour. The quality is good but I've not tried mine yet. I will be making an MDF chassis mock-up over the next few days to try everything and so I can get my amps going whilst waiting for my chassis to be built so should be able to let you know what they're like soon.
 
You want the latching variation, not the momentary (unless you like to keep holding the button while you listen to music), and yes, you need a resistor - either for 220V or for the aux power voltage.

Thanks Julf, I would have made the mistake. Not convenient at all to hold the button to listen.

Isn't the auxiliary power on the SMPS also 220v?


Thanks Dan1502, i will appreciate your feedback.
 
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