Hypex Ncore

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I don't think I'll be adding input sensing to the amplifier anytime soon but as an external module it makes sense. Especially since people are also asking for a pushbutton switch. For safety that requires a standby supply but I felt loath to sell a standby supply just to replace a mains switch. But if at the same time it can power a signal sense circuit that could make sense. One thing I'm not sure of is whether people will like the idea that the first 2 seconds of their music is lost while the SMPS and power amp turn on.
@Bruno
If you go for what could be considered as a "control module", it would be great if it could both handle on/off triggering and a LED status
 
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It seems this is more compicated than I thought as they seem to operate at much lower voltages than the 21V aux output unless someone can point me in the direction of a suitable 3mm flush mount clear blue LED.

Look up the specs of the LED and fill them in here: LED Series Resistor Calculator if you don;t trust your maths. It'll give you recommended resistor values (pick the "higher" value).

As you're going down the low-waste route anyway (class D), if you can get your hands on them, I'd use a low power consumption type led (~5mA). Seems a bit of a waste to dissipate nearly half a watt for a single LED when the total idle current for the NC400 is ~4.5W.

But maybe that's just me.
 
Thanks.

It seems that the combination I want is difficult to come by - blue, flat topped, 3mm, low output. I've ordered some from Germany but couldn't be too fussy on power consumption. They're 20mA. Their calculator seems to suggest 910 Ohm resistors though it's in German so I'll double check.
 
I am a newbie on this forum and also in DIY. I am considering to go for nc400 and make best possible assembly. Few questions to experienced DIYers and Bruno:

1) Due to SMPS power, I suppose any power tweak, such as Shaffner filter, line balancing transformers (220V to +110 / -110V) or other becomes useless. Am I right? Otherwise what filtering should I use?
2) Would it make sense to build a faraday shield around power supply and or the NC400 ?
3) Would it make sense to put a ferrite ring around the supply cables between PSU and NC400?
4) would it make sense to wrap cables into an additional metallic shield connected to the chassis?
 
One other newbie question:

How should be implemented power on/off function to avoid plops in the speakers when switching on the unit?

Some of you seem to use a switch on the mains between IEC plug and SMPS, some use the nAmpOn Pin J9:3 and the SMPS even have its own pin for stand-by (Pin J1:1). Which solution should be implemented. What are the advantages / drawbacks of all possible layouts?
 
Regarding the interconnect/speaker cable long/short story there are many "thruths" circulating around. Unfortunately, as with most things, they seldom agree.

I would suggest to anyone who takes this seriously to use the test and try approach to find out what works best for them.

On another forum the consensus is that longer (5-10m) speaker cables sounds better than shorter. This is of course not a general "truth" as its validity relies on the context of its implementation (as with everything, actually).

Personally with my cables in my system i too find that longer speaker cables tends to sound better. The same seems to go for I/C cables. And as I make them myself, all practical concerns would advice me to make the cables shorter rather than longer.

Mono blocks on the floor just doesn´t make that much sense for me then, although i recon that they can look very cool. Another issues which seems to slip by the scope of what has been discussed is regarding floor placement. It is from my experience very important for the sound of a component how it is mechanically coupled. I have tried various kinds of home made soft and hard couplings of my equipment and it bares a noticeable effect on sound. Taste differs so I would be hesitant to claim that one necessarily is better than the other, but one can actually tune the sound quite a bit by employing harder or softer feets or other stuff beneath a component.

Floor placement is probably not the best idea in that regard. I definitely wouldn´t want my turntable to be placed on the floor right behind or next to a speaker :eek:)
Would you really treat your new ncore babies like that??

Also another power supply question is that if we accept that the quality of a power supply matters then:

- should there be any audible disadvantages of using a regulated SMPS over a non-regulated one (which I believe the hypex offerings are, please correct me if i´m wrong)?

I know that with other amplifiers some prefer unregulated power supplies to regulated ones for audible reasons. What I am fishing after is whether hypex has chosen an unregulated path because they find it better (for sound reasons) or for more practical reasons (other technical issues)?

cheers,
 
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I am making monoblocks so just need it to indicate when the SMPS is switched on.

You can use the right part of the circuit then. Leave out the optocoupler.
The LED I use is also a flat top type (L-13HD) from Kingbright. I used a little bit of silicon rubber to hold it in place. Silicon rubber can stand a lot of heat so no worries here. It is also easy to remove again.

I also have a 10 mm front panel, just drill a hole at the back of the panel large enough to fit the body of the LED. Be carefull not to drill it all the way through. Then a 2 mm hole (depending on the front size of the LED) in the centre of the larger hole. If the LED needs to be brighter use a lower value resistor, 1K or something like that. The resistor must be able to handle about 1/2 watt
 

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Floor placement is probably not the best idea in that regard. I definitely wouldn´t want my turntable to be placed on the floor right behind or next to a speaker :eek:)

Your Turntable = An apple.
NCore = An orange.

I'm afraid you can't compare the two.

Would you really treat your new ncore babies like that??

You do realize that the music we listen to has been mastered in studios which typically have their amplifiers inside their loudspeakers, right?

But I'm with you... Let's pester Bruno about it so that he gives us a discount on the "flawed" Grimm LS1s!

Also another power supply question is that if we accept that the quality of a power supply matters then:

- should there be any audible disadvantages of using a regulated SMPS over a non-regulated one (which I believe the hypex offerings are, please correct me if i´m wrong)?

Bruno mentioned earlier in the thread that he did try the NCores with a regulated lab supply and found no (measurable) advantages over the SMPS.
 
You can use the right part of the circuit then. Leave out the optocoupler.
The LED I use is also a flat top type (L-13HD) from Kingbright. I used a little bit of silicon rubber to hold it in place. Silicon rubber can stand a lot of heat so no worries here. It is also easy to remove again.

I also have a 10 mm front panel, just drill a hole at the back of the panel large enough to fit the body of the LED. Be carefull not to drill it all the way through. Then a 2 mm hole (depending on the front size of the LED) in the centre of the larger hole. If the LED needs to be brighter use a lower value resistor, 1K or something like that. The resistor must be able to handle about 1/2 watt

Thanks, I was thinking of using silicon too. I thought I just need a resistor on the positive side of the circuit. Do I need something more? I was thinking of buying a 1K resistor and one or two of higher resistance to try too. I have all the measurements for the drilling.
 
You can also leave out the second resistor (150 Ohm). Forgot to mention that.

Do I need something more?
Perhaps a euro circuit board to mount all components. Cut it into the right size.
You can use some nice screw terminal blocks to connect the wires and some spacers to mount it all to the front panel or somewhere else in your enclosure. you don't really need all this, but it surely looks nicer and and with a euro circuit board it is a piece of cake to mount all components.
 
Your Turntable = An apple.
NCore = An orange.

I'm afraid you can't compare the two.



You do realize that the music we listen to has been mastered in studios which typically have their amplifiers inside their loudspeakers, right?

But I'm with you... Let's pester Bruno about it so that he gives us a discount on the "flawed" Grimm LS1s!


Bruno mentioned earlier in the thread that he did try the NCores with a regulated lab supply and found no (measurable) advantages over the SMPS.

The Shaman,

I did not mean to disrespect you, but i do feel that you don´t read what I actually write. No biggie and your loss, but have you actually tried any of the things I mentioned and if not what do you actually know then?

Yes a turntable and an amp are different, but my POWER AMPs do sound different according to what they are placed on, not specifically the turntable. If you got me wrong there I do understand your misconception of what I wrote.

And I am NOT talking about measurable difference but audible difference -potentially in favor of non-regulated...

-Did you even read what I actually wrote???

cheers,
 
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Use a 1K resistor for typical use. If this turns out to be to bright then use a higher value resistor.

EDIT: in my opinion they are to bright to be used in the front panel. Unless you want to light the room with them.

I don't want it too bright which is why I ordered the lowest light output I could find (though maybe I should've asked for help first). Most were many times brighter than the ones I ordered.

What resistance would you suggest for the LEDs I've ordered to reduce them to a normal fascia level?
 
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