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#201 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
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I agree volume should remain...
__________________
-- Good sound from Phoenix, AZ
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#202 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Coventry
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I completely agree with at least keeping the option of volume control. You would be limiting your Market to only devices that can do digital volume. Many will want a high quality, simple 2.1 stereo solution for playing their music from cd player...
I also personally think the cross over point should be lowered. 80hz won't appeal to those with larger main speakers who want to integrate a sub. 320hz is way too high and would mean the sub is far too easily located. Just my thoughts... |
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#203 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
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Quote:
I agree with the other comment that 80Hz bypass might be a bit high, there might be those with speakers which can go down to 50Hz (many bookshelfs). Oon |
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#204 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
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Some afterthoughts on your proposal for your system.
I personally think that 2.1 with a powered sub will be quite useless because most people already have powered subs. You pretty much have to DIY if you wanted a non powered sub. DIY subs are messy business, big box, need heavy bracing, thick wood etc... I think a 2.2 line level analog out would be better. The output we could then feed into a sub or use one of your higher powered module (TA3020?). Alternatively it could be a SPDIF coax out which we can then use on one of your DAC with TA3020 modules or a external powered sub. ![]() Of course these are my personal thoughts, other people might differ on that... My Oon |
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#205 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Brisbane
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I am personally very happy with where this is going. I agree that a volume control is a necessity I also agree that I really don't need an indicator if it makes it more difficult. About the power output of the chipset. Will the two main channels (80x 8ohm) be capable of handling 6ohm load or would it stress them too much?
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#206 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
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I agree; lower the entire series of crossover points.
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#207 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
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I agree that LEDs indicating the volume are superfluous - once the board is installed in a case, people won't be able to see them anyway.
But it's critical for the volume knob to have minimum/maximum stops, so you can feel whether you've turned it all the way up or down. Steps for each increment would also be nice. And I respectfully disagree about resetting the volume each time the unit powers on - the volume should remain at whatever level the knob is set. |
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#209 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Hifimediy - what are the power requirements (I noticed the three terminals, so I assume it can work with a transformer)? And I assume this board will require a heatsink like your Tripath amps?
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#210 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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yes, it's similar to T4, so a transformer or a SMPS can be used. And there would be a heat-sink.
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