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Old 6th August 2009, 06:34 PM   #51
Mush is offline Mush  United States
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I have only guesses for how to hookup the amp so a little documentation could be very useful.

For example, between a choke and the 12v power VCC/GNDare a set of green screw terminals. I have no idea what they are for. What do I hook those up to?

The two white "over" and "pow" terminals are vague. I imagine that these are for the LEDs. I'm not sure about the orientation, +/-.

Thanks.
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Old 6th August 2009, 07:53 PM   #52
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Yes, I believe your version is the revision after mine.
On mine, the power LED and Overload protection LED are mounted onboard.
Yours has terminals instead, allowing you to mount the LEDs on the facia - I thought it shipped with the necessary leads and LEDs, but perhaps not.
As LEDs only work in one direction, it shouldn't be hard to ascertain the polarity of the power one. One would then assume the overload would be the same.
As for the green block - I've no idea - there doesn't seem to be anything like that on mine.
Out of interest, with reference to my first post on this topic, of the three cables yellow, black and red / LIN, GND and RTN - which of LIN and RTN is Left and which Right? These link to your potentiometer don't they?
And do they, as I assume, stand for Line and Return? If so why?

Sorry - I'm a novice, so these may be fundamentals I should perhaps already have a grasp of prior to embarking on building my first T-Amp.
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Old 6th August 2009, 08:15 PM   #53
Mush is offline Mush  United States
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LIN is Left In
RTN is probably RIN, Right In

I've only given the board a cursory glance.

From what I can gather, if a multimeter shows connectivity (zero ohms) to the red input caps (edge side), then a pot should hookup directly to the red/black/yellow. I'll check tonight and let you know.

I use resistor ladders. They sound about 1,000 times better than the tiny carbon pots. Search Ebay for "volume ladder". A mildly cheaper alternative is Alps or Noble.

Regarding the LEDs. I don't want to experiment to find out if I wired the Overload correctly.

The green terminal block is a complete mystery. If they aren't hooked up correctly will I end up destroying the amp?
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Old 7th August 2009, 03:29 AM   #54
Mush is offline Mush  United States
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The red/yellow/black input wires can go directly to the volume pot. There's no need to mess with the pads on the pcb. This is nice but I might anyway.

The green terminal block is for AC power in. I am going to use an SMPS so there's no reason for me to use it.

I'll figure out the LED orientation when I get the power supplies.

The Audiophiler caps on the board are not Mundorf Audiophiler caps. I will give them a listen, perhaps 100 hours or burn in.

I have an assortment of MKP and PIO caps to try. I have been told that Vishay MKY 1822 sound very good in the T amps. I have a set of 4.7uf I will try.

I'm going to give it a run in once my power supplies arrive from wherever on the other side of the planet. Until then, Ciao.
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Old 7th August 2009, 01:23 PM   #55
gychang is offline gychang  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mush
The red/yellow/black input wires can go directly to the volume pot.

The green terminal block is for AC power in. I am going to use an SMPS so there's no reason for me to use it.

The Audiophiler caps on the board are not Mundorf Audiophiler caps. I will give them a listen, perhaps 100 hours or burn in.

I have an assortment of MKP and PIO caps to try.

I have the same board, is the green terminal block for AC power?, am confused. will the amp work if AC power is connected?

I have the same version 2 board and will be very interested in different input caps, please report back on the sound.

gychang
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Old 7th August 2009, 01:41 PM   #56
Mush is offline Mush  United States
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I don't think using an AC supply is a good idea. Over voltage is possible. My wall socket puts out 125vac. A power transformer with 115vac primary will run over published specification.

An switching supply is regulated. I bought a 12volt @ 10A supply through Ebay. It's not here yet.

I usually don't have much time so my experiments are slow.


If you want to see someone else's opinion on the Audiophiler caps, see this thread.
Audiophiler capacitors on ebay


Here's a review of the Vishay MKT 1822 (which cost almost nothing, I wrote MKY by mistake in the earlier post, sorry)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...77#post1265877
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Old 21st August 2009, 02:35 AM   #57
echn111 is offline echn111  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin Barton View Post
I notice you are in the UK - I bought a case like this from RS electronics which will house the plain stereo TA202 board plus Arjen's power adapter. There's a range of sizes available. I've been drilling the necessary holes with a hand drill and wood drill bits - it's alloy and so drills easily. I'm enamel painting it and then I'll put little rubber feet on

Banzai (where the image is linked to) do a good range of knobs too
Thanks - will look into these. I'm not so good with modding, and was hoping for something that already included a volume knob, an on/off switch and room at the back for the connectors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gychang View Post
I have the same board, is the green terminal block for AC power?, am confused. will the amp work if AC power is connected?

I have the same version 2 board and will be very interested in different input caps, please report back on the sound.

gychang
Not sure if you have the same board I bought, but I connected AC power to CN401, which is the top most power connector and it worked (and put the on/off switch against SW402). Specifically, I chopped up a normal AC cable and connected the two non-ground wires to CN401 and just left the ground alone.

I considered asking for an external power supply as all this board really needs is 12v @ 10A, but it handles the 230v AC power I'm feeding it, which is within the specification in Arjen's documentation, and converts it. So far so good.
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Old 1st September 2009, 10:15 PM   #58
sled108 is offline sled108  United States
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I've just got the MK2 board, and it sounds great....My only question is about the Red 'Overload' LED. It starts Glowing to the Music when I get over 11:00. Am I asking too much from my 13v 1.8A PS. or is this just what it does normally?
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Old 3rd September 2009, 07:57 PM   #59
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Hi Arjen!

I've got my amplifier today(Igor from Slovenia). I quickly soldered all parts and now it's playing.
On first impression it sounds little worse than my previous modded T-amp(your first revision). Bottom end is little thick in comparison with old modded. But I already ordered better input caps(Vishay and M-cap) and we'll see then how it will play. What is maximum DC input voltage?
If you have any tips for modding, I would appreciate if you send them on pm.

Regards,
Igor
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Old 8th September 2009, 10:41 PM   #60
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Here is my finished amp:


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