50 RMB( 5,- EUR ) Tripath TA2024 PCBA's

[wireland]

completely finished??
you mean the TA chip included?

if not, can you supply as well?

[ArjenShenzhen]

Hi there wireland,

Yes fully finished PCB including IC and all other components.

All you need is a 12 volts powersupply and a audio signal!


If you want these, mail me @ Arjenhelder@hotmail.com

Ive tested these PCB's for a couple of weeks and do enjoy there sound.

Greetings,

Arjen Helder

[valleyman]

Just thought I'd comment that I have received 4 boards from Arjen. They arrived very quicly and were well packaged. Arjen (and his girlfriend) is a very helpful and friendly person to deal with too.

Boards are really amazing for the money. I really dont think better bang for buck exists than these. PCBs are surprisingly good quality and the amps sound good - they even come with film input caps (though they should probably be changed anyway).

Many thanks Arjen

[ArjenShenzhen]

Thanks Valleyman, Just doing what i think is best :-)

The caps are best changed, this also counts for the buffer caps, there a tad bit small, if you want better capacitors with the set, ive got those and there cheap.

Greetings from Hongkong ( im here for 3 days )

Arjen Helder

[tilroh]

Last week I was telling the boys at work about Arjen's amps and today they showed up. I received two 2024 boards along with mod kits. They were well packed, Thank you Arjen!

Can anyone point me to posts that show where to put the caps and resisters?

and one more question.... the input has 3 connectors, is the middle one common?

thanks for the help,

Mack

[ArjenShenzhen]

Hi there Mack, glad everything is in a good state,

The Audio input is the White connector in the board, the middle is GND, so te common, as you call it and the left and right pins are for left and right input.

The filter capacitors are the larger black tubes with a bubble on them ( there actually a film cap and a electrolytic cap biggy back )
These can be removed and replaced by other input capacitors. ( the yellow ones saying 225 - 400V )

The Buffer caps, Best to remove the 2 caps on the PCB (470uF 25 volts ) so you can eazely solder the wires to the board.
If you can get a hold of some solder wick ( copper wire that sucks up the molten solder ) or a de-solder pump, then you can eazely remove the remaining solder from the PCB holes.

Best is to take some thicker wire, say 1 mm in thickness and solder those to the buffer capacitor if you carefully watch the polarity, nothing can go wrong.

Good luck!

Arjen Helder

Shenzhen CHina

[tilroh]

Arjen, you reply as quickly to email as you ship goods. Two more questions if I may.

Where do the trim pots go, C9 and C10?

You included several resisters. I can't find a reference to them in the thread.

I forgot to ask you about power supplys. I think I've seen you use 12v 2a units. Are they big enough for these amps? Do you sell them?

Sorry for all the questions.

Mack

[ArjenShenzhen]

Hey there Mack, no worries, here to help.

This is the Mod as described by ElFishi, one of the DIYaudio members from Germany:

Arjen's board:
for orientation put the board in front of you such that IN faces left and OUT faces right.

I use two 10k standing miniature trim pots
One goes right above the IN socket. Its left end is soldered to the ground rail, its right end is soldered to the left end of C17.
The center pin goes to the left end of R5 via a 1MOhm resistor.

The second pot sits right under the IN socket. The left end is again soldered the the ground rail. The right end I connected to the right end of the first pot via an insulated wire.
Center pin goes to the left of R6, again via a 1MOhm resistor.

You can find this information on Page 21 of the sure boards thread

Powersupplies are available, i have now got 12 volts 2 A and 12 volts 3 A the 2 A is 10 euro and the 3 A is 12 euro.

With the 10.000uF buffer caps, not to worry, plenty of juice to go round! if you want to test for that, use a oscilloscope on the power pins, and play loud music with the PCB. if you can see large voltage drops, power is insuffiecent.

If you like it loud, i do suggest some kind of heat sink to the top of the IC. ive used 2 component glue for that before, to a small piece of aliminium. works like a charm.

Greetings,

Arjen Helder

[ZL2BPS]

Tilroh Wrote: Where do the trim pots go, C9 and C10?

You included several resisters. I can't find a reference to them in the thread.

Did you check the DC offset on your boards.?? You may allready have a low DC offset & not need to install the trimmers.
You can easily check the DC content of each channel output with a multimeter. You should do this with no input & measure at full volume.
Typically my 4 boards were all in the 12 > 25 mV range & I considered these not worth modifying in this area.
Tripath specify a DC offset as typically 50mV, maximum 150mV in their data sheet. Personally, in my opinion 150mV is far too high & I would only modify them if over 50 mV.
As everyone has stated, these boards of Arjen's perform very nice with minimal modifications.
" don't fix it, if it aint broke"
Paul

[tilroh]

Thanks ZL2BPS,

I'd certainly not change anything that doesn't need it. I probably can't hear the different anyway.

My 2024 Sureelectronics boards pop on power up and on shut down. Would this be a symptom of too much DC offset?

Thanks guys,

Mack