Remote control kits

[mcs]

I dont like big remotes....RCU15 Remote control looks like it has enough buttons and is still small, will that do all the features?

Yes - except mute as written on the website (I guess the designers forgot the mute button ).

Does that mean with type 2 front panel I can use mute or tape monitor functions?

I guess you mean can't. With the type 2 panel you don't have any mute and tape monitor buttons, but you can still use them on the remote control. You can also setup the system so the tape monitor input becomes input 1 - then it can be selected on the type 2 panel also.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen

 

[TS Lo]

Hi Mikkel,

Would you please describe the function of
"Delay" header (JP5) in Control 2 board.
Can any other type of displays be selected
by header JP8.

Thanks

TS

 

[mcs]

Would you please describe the function of
"Delay" header (JP5) in Control 2 board.
Can any other type of displays be selected
by header JP8.

Both headers are not really in use (yet). The delay header is meant for controlling a relay (B+ delay in a tube amp, switching off speakers during power-on etc.).

The display header is for selecting non-HD44780 compatible displays - perhaps LED or VFD types. I haven't added support for other display types yet, as it hasn't really been needed.

Do you need any of those features for your amp? I guess I should implement them sometime...

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen

 

[TS Lo]

Hi Mikkel,

Thanks for your reply.
The "Delay" control is really an useful feature
for valve amp, I've installed delay control in
my pre-amp already.
However please let me know when you implement
it.

With Best Regards

TS

 

[maxw]

Got my kits last week and put them together pretty easily. No major issues at all. I'm really happy with it!
I got a relvol1, control2, input1 and a remote.

Good things:
The tape input can be set as another standard input giving 6 in total.

It mutes on startup for a couple of secs which is great for avoiding thump/buzz etc from your linestage getting to your power amps.

It has integrated soft on/off power so you can just use a small transformer to power the control circuits 24/7 and when it is powered up via the momentary button on the front or from the remote it can switch a relay to power up your linestage and or power amps. Plus there is a much better range of switches that are momentary as opposed to 120/240V switches

No bad things I can think of

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

 

[mcs]

Time for another (small) update.

I have added a new kit - an S/PDIF or AES/EBU receiver board for use in DAC projects etc. It's based on the CS8415A, so it supports up to 24 bit/96kHz.

I have also added a small PCB for use with the 6-channel Alps RK16 pots, and two new LCD types (red and RGB).

A small tube linestage and the ADAT receiver mentioned here earlier will be added soon...

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen

 

[maxw]

Timand two new LCD types (red and RGB).

What is an RGB LCD? got a pic?

A small tube linestage

Sounds good!!

 

[bowdown]

For everyones info, I bought a kit from Mikkel a few months ago, probably 4-5 months ago and must say that it is really well made and mikkel is very very helpful.The kit i bought was the same as maxw's kit. So if you are looking at purchasing a kit, do not hesitate cause i know that all my future vol/input kits will be coming from mikkel. Very fast and friendly service.Wish there were more people like Mikkel!! Keep up the excellent work Mikkel.

Regards

Bowdown

 

[mcs]

What is an RGB LCD? got a pic?

Not yet. I have to get a stand for the camera, so I can take multiple pictures and combine them afterwards

It's just a normal LCD, but with three backlight colours, so you can mix whatever background colour you want. Well almost - the red is a bit orange...

Very fast and friendly service.

Thanks for the kind words! But the service is not always as fast as I would like

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen

 

[Magsy]

Mikkel,

I'm looking to place some of your kit into a 5.25 external cd/dvd enclosure and I came across this http://www.vlsys.co.kr/English/product_lis2pre.php#

Now I know its an extremely wasteful way to get a nice display and face plate but is there any reason it wouldn't work with your kit?

As I understand at heart its a HD44780 VFD and I think by removing the USB/fan controller etc I can expose the HD44780 interface. Asssuming this turns out to be possible it would work right?

How are the LCD's powered in your kit?

Also with the RelVol1 board, do the resistors get used in series? (more than one in the signal path?)

Thanks!

 

[mcs]

As I understand at heart its a HD44780 VFD and I think by removing the USB/fan controller etc I can expose the HD44780 interface. Asssuming this turns out to be possible it would work right?

Yes, as long as it's HD44780 compatible it will work fine. It looks like it's a character display, so it's likely that it's compatible.

How are the LCD's powered in your kit?

Through the standard 14/16-pin interface. There's only +5V available, but the display should have an onboard inverter.

Also with the RelVol1 board, do the resistors get used in series? (more than one in the signal path?)

There are between 0 and 6 resistors in series depending on the setting.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen

 

[mcs]

I have added a couple of small power supply kits. Two of them are standby supplies meant for powering other kits, and they include a power relay for switching other parts of the system on/off - not 1000W power amps though

The other three are just general-purpose power supplies.

I have had some requests for RK27 pots without motors, so I have added some of those also.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen

 

[mcs]

I have a couple of christmas/end-of-year specials...

They are cheaper versions of the Control2 and Phono1, some used remotes and some left-over parts (LM338T and MUR1620).

Read all about it here: http://electronics.dantimax.dk/Specials/

There are only limited quantities available, so if you order some of it don't send payment until your order has been confirmed (by a human being - not the automatic e-mail).

Best regards and merry christmas,

Mikkel C. Simonsen

 

[hiwi3]

Mikkel-

I would like to use your remote kits to select input and control volume for my pre-amp and headphone amp (they are in the same case). The pre-amp uses balanced volume control (at the output), and the headphone amp uses single-ended volume control (at the input). I need to control balance on the pre-amp, but do not want this adjustment to effect the headphone output. None of my sources are balanced.

Is this what I need?
C2Panel1-1 + Control2 + Input1 + RelVol3 + RelVol1

I would provide a display and the power supply. Do I only need +12 VDC to the Input1 (and the Input1 supplies +5 VDC to the other boards), or do I need to provide a +5 VDC supply also?

Also, I am considering the RU151 remote-- its high WAF offsets the inability to access rarely-used functions from across the room. Would the configuration described above allow me to access all the controls (such as balance / multi-channel offsets) from the front panel, or would I need to do this with a different/additional remote, like the RC400?

Finally, I don't suppose that you accept money orders in $US...? The American system doesn't handle foreign currencies well, and I've successfully avoided PayPal so far. If not, does your moneybookers or PayPal pay-to info appear at the end of the ordering process, or do we discuss via e-mail?

Like so many others before me, I apologize for so many questions and thank you for your answers.

-Bill

 

[mcs]

I would like to use your remote kits to select input and control volume for my pre-amp and headphone amp (they are in the same case). The pre-amp uses balanced volume control (at the output), and the headphone amp uses single-ended volume control (at the input).

So I guess your preamp converts the single ended inputs to balanced signals?

But why do you need separate volume controls for your preamp and headphone amp? Do you connect signal sources to the headphone amp directly without going through the preamp?

I need to control balance on the pre-amp, but do not want this adjustment to effect the headphone output. None of my sources are balanced.

Is this what I need?
C2Panel1-1 + Control2 + Input1 + RelVol3 + RelVol1

Yes, perhaps

The two attenuators would both be controlled when you change the volume setting. You can setup an off-set between them if needed though. The balance setting would not "disturb" the RelVol1.

I would provide a display and the power supply. Do I only need +12 VDC to the Input1 (and the Input1 supplies +5 VDC to the other boards), or do I need to provide a +5 VDC supply also?

You only need the 12V supply.

Also, I am considering the RU151 remote-- its high WAF offsets the inability to access rarely-used functions from across the room. Would the configuration described above allow me to access all the controls (such as balance / multi-channel offsets) from the front panel, or would I need to do this with a different/additional remote, like the RC400?

If you use the -2 front panel, you would be able to set the balance on the front panel also. But the off-sets etc. are only available on the remote. But you could just use two different remotes for this. If you have a (big) universal remote of some sort, it will probably have the buttons for that. You could just use one of the small remotes for daily use.

There's one small problem with the RU151 though, which is why I recommend it for the "small" solutions only (that have work-arrounds in the software). It's made for old TVs (that will only turn on when you press a number button), so the power button is strange. It will send out the codes for "1" and standby alternately. So to turn on the amp you would have to press the button, release it and press it again. The same thing would be nescessary to turn off - this time you will select input 1 before you turn off...

The RU120 does not have this "feature".

Finally, I don't suppose that you accept money orders in $US...? The American system doesn't handle foreign currencies well

Yes I do, but the Danish system doesn't handle money orders well
I am charged about $16 to cash a money order, but as long as you add that to the total, there's no problem.

and I've successfully avoided PayPal so far.

A great idea!

If not, does your moneybookers or PayPal pay-to info appear at the end of the ordering process, or do we discuss via e-mail?

The only info needed is the e-mail address.

Like so many others before me, I apologize for so many questions and thank you for your answers.

No problem.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen

 

[hiwi3]

So I guess your preamp converts the single ended inputs to balanced signals?

But why do you need separate volume controls for your preamp and headphone amp? Do you connect signal sources to the headphone amp directly without going through the preamp?

Exactly.

The inputs go to either the preamp or the headphone amp via a manual selector switch.

The RU120 does not have this "feature".

Sounds like I need a RU120 and a RC400HL. WAF is priceless.

I am charged about $16 to cash a money order, but as long as you add that to the total, there's no problem.

Does the $16 fee apply to bank checks in US$, too? I can get a cashier's check about as easily as a money order... the main things I would like to avoid are PayPal and $$$ cashier's checks in Euros.

Thanks
-Bill

 

[mcs]

Does the $16 fee apply to bank checks in US$, too?

Yes. Anything that's not Danish. The currency, type or country of origin doesn't matter... You could make a bank transfer also, but those are expensive in the US I think.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen

 

[manerotony]

Mikkel,
I was wondering if it's possible to make an integrated amplifier with your Rem3kit and my Charlize cause I have to remake the layout for amp and PSU (I made a mistake with input signal and transformer too close....).
I'd like to separate the PSU (12V DC with LM338 and 50VA transformer) and make a integrated amplifier with a box like your G 115 ME, just a little larger like 240mm, in your opinion is it possible to make it?
And if yes, how much does it cost this solution (Rem3kit and G115ME modified)?

Many thanks!
Matteo

 

[mcs]

I was wondering if it's possible to make an integrated amplifier with your Rem3kit and my Charlize cause I have to remake the layout for amp and PSU (I made a mistake with input signal and transformer too close....).
I'd like to separate the PSU (12V DC with LM338 and 50VA transformer) and make a integrated amplifier with a box like your G 115 ME, just a little larger like 240mm, in your opinion is it possible to make it?

Yes. You can get a box that's 168mm wide like the G115, but 240mm deep. That way you should be able to fit both pre- and poweramp in the box - and perhaps the power supply also. In that case I would probably choose the Remote4 kit instead of the Remote3. Then you could fit the input selector part at the back, and the control board at the front (the circuit of the Rem3 and Rem4 is the same).

But perhaps you wanted a box that's 108mm deep like the G115, but 240mm wide? That size isn't available. You can see what sizes are available here: http://www.fischerelektronik.de/fischer/uploadfischerfcase/Fischer/M.1.1.2.pdf
I can get most of the sizes on page 1.

You could also design a box yourself, and have it made by a company like Schaeffer but that does cost a bit of money...

And if yes, how much does it cost this solution (Rem3kit and G115ME modified)?

The larger G117 box costs €36 - and the Remote3 or Remote4 €81.

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen

 

[manerotony]

Hi Mikkel,
you are right, maybe Remote4 is better.
I have to make some considerations about the case, maybe the all in one solution, with faraday cage for the psu and extension to the front panel for the pot, requires a little study (I'm bad with solder&electrical but I can manage better mechanical parts).

See you soon.
Matteo