I wondered if there is a pin out for the sync green light that you see on the DAM board that I could use to power an LED on the front panel of my DAC case to indicate sync?
I have a switch that has an LED that takes 12v (although, I've tried it at 9v and it still works) - what is the voltage out of this pin (if there is one) please forum?
I have a switch that has an LED that takes 12v (although, I've tried it at 9v and it still works) - what is the voltage out of this pin (if there is one) please forum?
That's my though too, although it is a 40 x 250 x 12 mm alu plate that is milled down and have plenty of different holes and other features....
For now I'm using the original shop, but I will get additional quotes....
D5 cathode should be marked on the PCB, otherwise +3.3V (anode) is at the pin closest to J1, cathode is then connected to the uC through a 300 ohms resistor.
Thanks for the reply soekris, but I can't work that out.
D5 is the current smd LED - do you mean unsolder that and use that hole in the PCB?, and when you say Cathode is connected to the uC: what do you mean?
Apologies - I reckon you mean the microcontroller, but, where on the board to connect?
Please could you put this in simpler terms for me?
Many thanks.
For those of you using Raspberry Pi I2S output as a source for your dam1021, what RPi distribution and what overlay (and/or modules) are you using? Any other special config required?
I had my balanced dual-mono dam1021 working just fine under Archphile. Then I moved to a new house and after the move I was unable to ssh into my RPi. I messed with it for a while without success, so thought I'd just try another distro (as Archphile is now defunct). I tried with vanilla Arch and Volumio. In both cases I couldn't get any signal lock with the dam1021.
I'm sure I'm missing something simple... but I managed to overlook it for over four hours of messing around!
I had my balanced dual-mono dam1021 working just fine under Archphile. Then I moved to a new house and after the move I was unable to ssh into my RPi. I messed with it for a while without success, so thought I'd just try another distro (as Archphile is now defunct). I tried with vanilla Arch and Volumio. In both cases I couldn't get any signal lock with the dam1021.
I'm sure I'm missing something simple... but I managed to overlook it for over four hours of messing around!
Try this, the most reliable set-up in my opinion.
https://sites.google.com/site/picoreplayer/home
https://sites.google.com/site/picoreplayer/home
Sorry, forgot that the dam1021 actual have a PWRLED output on J4 pin 4. It is a 3.3V signaling, active low, directly from the uC. If you need to drive a 9V or 12V LED you need a buffer.
Thanks Soren: so to check - the PWRLED (pin 4 of J4) is actually for the Signal LOCK indicator?
This can be used to drive a 3.3V LED that will indicate LOCK if I use a 300Ohms resistor between this pin, an LED and a GND connection?
Thank you.
The PWRLED signal is active low, so you need to connect the LED between PWRLED and 3.3V, with current limiting resistor as needed.
OK - great - many thanks indeed.
Finally, do you have a recommendation of a pin to use for the 3.3V please Soren?
BTW - I really want to thank you not only for a terrific DAC, but, supporting everyone such as a noob like me and allowing us to go through this wonderful journey of building our own fantastic audio devices.
It's very kind of you
I finally got to build my Soekris DAC. I bought the version 3 just when it came out almost 18 months ago but haven't had time to do anything with it.
Transformer direct didn't do it for me. Detailed but also somewhat veiled and fuzzy. Oddly this setup somehow deteriorated the performance of other components in my system. Noise back into the mains, perhaps...
Running the board on regulated 12-0-12 fed by a 30VA R-core really makes it shine though.
When installing the regulated supply I also implemented coax per the instructions and now I frequently get locking issues. The green diode suddenly goes into blinking, then locks, and then goes back into blinking. As you can probably imagine it is REALLY annoying! I use this DIYinHK USB input:
XMOS DSD DXD 384kHz high-quality USB to I2S/DSD PCB - DIYINHK
Any ideas about how I can solve this terrible annoying issue would be greatly appreciated
best
Transformer direct didn't do it for me. Detailed but also somewhat veiled and fuzzy. Oddly this setup somehow deteriorated the performance of other components in my system. Noise back into the mains, perhaps...
Running the board on regulated 12-0-12 fed by a 30VA R-core really makes it shine though.
When installing the regulated supply I also implemented coax per the instructions and now I frequently get locking issues. The green diode suddenly goes into blinking, then locks, and then goes back into blinking. As you can probably imagine it is REALLY annoying! I use this DIYinHK USB input:
XMOS DSD DXD 384kHz high-quality USB to I2S/DSD PCB - DIYINHK
Any ideas about how I can solve this terrible annoying issue would be greatly appreciated
best
I finally got to build my Soekris DAC. I bought the version 3 just when it came out almost 18 months ago but haven't had time to do anything with it.
Transformer direct didn't do it for me. Detailed but also somewhat veiled and fuzzy. Oddly this setup somehow deteriorated the performance of other components in my system. Noise back into the mains, perhaps...
Running the board on regulated 12-0-12 fed by a 30VA R-core really makes it shine though.
When installing the regulated supply I also implemented coax per the instructions and now I frequently get locking issues. The green diode suddenly goes into blinking, then locks, and then goes back into blinking. As you can probably imagine it is REALLY annoying! I use this DIYinHK USB input:
XMOS DSD DXD 384kHz high-quality USB to I2S/DSD PCB - DIYINHK
Any ideas about how I can solve this terrible annoying issue would be greatly appreciated
best
Is only COAX connected? USB is powered off?
You have serial/RS232 connected? If from a dirty source like a linux serial console that still outputs it can cause above symptoms.
Thanks for your reply.
I have both USB and COAX connected. I don't have serial/RS232 connected.
Could it be a grounding issue that confuse the automatic input selection?
Automatic will try to lock to first signal, perhaps power off USB or use input selector switch/jumpers.
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I got similar situation when implemented Coax follow instruction. What I did is connect only Coaxia wires directly to Soekris board. No resistor, no cap and 1.2V. Then it is ok.
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Thanks, I will try this.
Just to be sure that I fully understand what you propose.
Following the instructions I have used isolation transformer, the 1.2V, a 0.1 uF cap, 330 and 1k ohm resistors.
Instead, I should just take the two wires from the coax input and connect them directly to pin 7 and 8 on J3 on the Soekris board with no signal conditioning of any kind? Please confirm this, as it would be absolutely lovely to get this sorted
best,
Yes, connect directly to pin 7,8 J3. In case your USB receiver does not have isolation transformer, you may want to add it in. So connection will be like this: USB->SPDIF->Trans->Pin7,8 J3Thanks, I will try this.
Just to be sure that I fully understand what you propose.
Following the instructions I have used isolation transformer, the 1.2V, a 0.1 uF cap, 330 and 1k ohm resistors.
Instead, I should just take the two wires from the coax input and connect them directly to pin 7 and 8 on J3 on the Soekris board with no signal conditioning of any kind? Please confirm this, as it would be absolutely lovely to get this sorted
best,
Sent from my E6883 using Tapatalk