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New XMOS USB DSD DXD 384k ES9018 K2M DAC with SPDIF INPUT combo
New XMOS USB DSD DXD 384k ES9018 K2M DAC with SPDIF INPUT combo
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Old 7th June 2017, 11:25 AM   #201
steph99de is offline steph99de  Germany
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Munich
I was looking for the little smd chip's description....
Yes, it says MAX9023 ESA but the possible replacements I have have a the same name but a slightly different number underneath. I think it describes some frequency rating or range? Do you think I should try anyway?

I also received the optical receiver from diyinhk today. Will try that as soon as I have bought an optical cable. Must have dumped all of them a long time ago.

And thanks again for all your help!

Last edited by steph99de; 7th June 2017 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 7th June 2017, 12:09 PM   #202
fluid is offline fluid  Australia
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Join Date: Jan 2009
If it says MAX9023 ESA then it is the right chip any other numbers will be batch numbers. The data sheet only lists two versions ESA and EKA-T. Only the ESA will fit the PCB.

The optical input should work fine
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Old 12th June 2017, 04:38 PM   #203
Juzzy is offline Juzzy
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Does anyone know how to feed xmos board externally? I made optical/coax inputs board, all works good, but DAC won't start without controller. How to get rid of USB cable?
Looks like it's possible to remove one bead there,and connect external 5v PSU.
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Old 17th June 2017, 08:13 PM   #204
Juzzy is offline Juzzy
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Finally set spdif converter to working state today.
Schematics similar to Twisted Pear one, on MAX9203ESA+
Level shift (5V to 3.3 V) on SN74LVC1G126DBV.
Toslink part on TORX1952
Multiplexer 74hc151
Connected to spdif in of diyinhk board
All works flawlessly, if you need detailed schematics, I will publish it then
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Old 26th June 2017, 02:12 PM   #205
Naaling is offline Naaling  Portugal
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Hi everyone
I'm about to construct this DAC and I am hoping that you good people will be able to give me some idea where the "good oil" ends and the "snake oil begins".
My situation is that I'm currently using an HTPC, with a gigabyte M/B and ALC887 codec, to feed a My-Ref RevC amp and Q Acoustic 3050 speakers. I also have a HiFimeDIY Sabre U2 Asynchronous USB DAC, that I believe is malfunctioning because the Realtech onboard codec sounds so much better!
Before I purchase to components from DIYINHK, I would be grateful if the more knowledgable people here could answer a few questions.
1. Is it worth paying the extra $30 for the isolated XMOS board?
2. Which provides the better connection USB or SPDIF? The M/B has a SPDIF header.
3. In my system am I likely to gain any advantage using the more expensive low-noise power supply regulators?
4. Would this transformer be suitable for this DAC? Transformateur R-CORE 30VA 2x15V + 2X9V - Audiophonics
Any assistance you can provide would be very much appreciated.
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Old 26th June 2017, 03:27 PM   #206
fluid is offline fluid  Australia
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Join Date: Jan 2009
1. The isolated board when bought in the kit is only about $10 extra. Whether it is worth it is debatable. The isolation will prevent ground interference from your PC getting to the DAC via the USB ground connection. Many people seem to prefer isolation.

The down side to using an isolator is that it increases jitter. Many will then re-clock after the isolator to remove this jitter. The ESS DAC's have a jitter elimination circuit built in so you should be able to benefit from the isolation and not have an increased level of jitter.

2. USB can accomodate higher sample rates and will usually have lower levels of jitter, again that may not be an issue with the ESS DAC. If you use optical SPDIF then you get isolation of the signal as there is now no common ground connection between the computer and the DAC. This is similar to what you get with an isolation chip.

Optical spdif is better to use with this DAC as it is at the TTL level. Coaxial spdif needs the level boosted. You will need to check your MB to see what you have.

3. Hard to say but they are unlikely to make it worse

4. The non isolated kit needs 2 x 3.3V and +/-12V the isolated kit needs 3.3V 5V and +/-12.

Using a 9V transformer to get 3.3V will mean that you are generating a lot of heat dropping the voltage. A 5 or 6V transformer will produce a lot less heat.

12V DC from 12VAC should be fine.
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Old 28th June 2017, 10:30 AM   #207
Naaling is offline Naaling  Portugal
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Thank you for the info.
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Old 13th January 2018, 11:46 AM   #208
tuxx is offline tuxx  Greece
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Please can you recommend any alternartive capacitor solution to the black ones that diyinhk usually uses for all his kits?

Thank you in advance.
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Old 13th January 2018, 10:07 PM   #209
tuxx is offline tuxx  Greece
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxx View Post
Please can you recommend any alternartive capacitor solution to the black ones that diyinhk usually uses for all his kits?

Thank you in advance.
I am sorry for bumping, but below you can find a photo of the capacitors used:



IMG_20180114_000555.jpg
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Old Yesterday, 03:35 PM   #210
tuxx is offline tuxx  Greece
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I just found the following while googling for our 9018k2m:

Click the image to open in full size.

LampizatOr Amber - recenzja. Oczywiście, że się da. :: Blog PCLab.pl

As it seems our boards (dac and XMOS) along with a tube i/v stage are sold for 2000 (lol) Euros.
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