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Another project, all digital DDX amplifier
Another project, all digital DDX amplifier
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Old 10th June 2011, 06:26 PM   #211
SoldierAnt76 is offline SoldierAnt76  United States
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by hifimediy View Post
yes, it's similar to T4, so a transformer or a SMPS can be used. And there would be a heat-sink.
You mentioned you're using the STA508 chip now - I'm assuming that means the power requirements will be closer to the T1 (i.e., 22V-31V DC/16V-22V AC) than the T4?
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Old 18th June 2011, 06:04 PM   #212
birdyfoot is offline birdyfoot  United States
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This is a great Ideal! I think 2.1 channel systems are a very nice configuration. Parting from the model of traditional stereo speakers I also recognize that the sub-woofer in these designs might utilize a much higher crossover frequency, even as high as 320Hz, nice thinking!!! I think the full digital model with all bells and whistles would have a very fine and sophisticated quality; a real stand-alone, techno, masterpiece!

I unfortunately have no device that outputs to digital audio.

Would it make sense to produce a cheaper model that would be analog, and with two volume pots, i.e. one for 2x80w @ 8ohms, and one for 1x 100w @ 4ohms respectively, with no crossovers? I am imagining more of a skeleton amp for 2.1 channel DIY, that provides power and independent gain. Actually as many as three volume pots, for Master volume, and high and low channels wold be ideal for a 2.1 channel amp.

Alternatively an amp with no volume control like the sure 4 x 100 watt board would be enough. I would use this board for my project except it only produces 40 watts @ 8 ohms.

I think that the full digital model would also need independent gain settings for high and low channels. I don't think that the full digital model would need volume knobs. The digital interface would be enough if this unit would remember the volume settings for high and low gain after shutdown and startup. Then volume could be controlled from the digital source.

Cheers, and good luck,


Marc
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Old 24th June 2011, 10:35 AM   #213
AlexScan is offline AlexScan  France
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Near Paris too
Hi all !

I am a big fan off the TK2050 and all hifimediy product (i have five T2), i come from the french forum "HomeCinema-FR" (like Alkasar).

I follow this subject and i have a proposition to hifimediy, why it doesnt make a full 3 way active crossovers/multiamplificator with the DDX technologie rather than a 2.1 ?
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Old 17th July 2011, 02:23 PM   #214
hifimediy is offline hifimediy  China
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoldierAnt76 View Post
You mentioned you're using the STA508 chip now - I'm assuming that means the power requirements will be closer to the T1 (i.e., 22V-31V DC/16V-22V AC) than the T4?
the first version, we will use sta508 so the voltage range will be similar to T1.
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Old 17th July 2011, 02:26 PM   #215
hifimediy is offline hifimediy  China
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Default news

I think you should already knew what's this.
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Last edited by hifimediy; 17th July 2011 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 17th July 2011, 02:31 PM   #216
hifimediy is offline hifimediy  China
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexScan View Post
Hi all !

I am a big fan off the TK2050 and all hifimediy product (i have five T2), i come from the french forum "HomeCinema-FR" (like Alkasar).

I follow this subject and i have a proposition to hifimediy, why it doesnt make a full 3 way active crossovers/multiamplificator with the DDX technologie rather than a 2.1 ?
We will go 2.1 first. One I2S signal bus only carry 2 way signal, so the 3rd way will be mixed from the other.
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Old 18th July 2011, 06:34 AM   #217
SoldierAnt76 is offline SoldierAnt76  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hifimediy View Post
I think you should already knew what's this.
Interesting - what do the LEDs mean? The socket in back could be a tight fit for a small case, but then you could probably solder the wires directly. Or is the panel optional?
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Old 18th July 2011, 07:24 AM   #218
bkdog is offline bkdog
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Another project, all digital DDX amplifier
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoldierAnt76 View Post
Interesting - what do the LEDs mean? The socket in back could be a tight fit for a small case, but then you could probably solder the wires directly. Or is the panel optional?
My guess is that the leds mean, from low to high;
green 1 = signal present,
green 2 = signal at -36dB
yellow 1 = signal at -18 or -12dB
yellow 2 = signal at -6dB
red = signal clipped, ie over 0dB

It's the sort of thing you'd use with a level control...

I have level control on my digital source, so this does not really interest me so much, but a high quality digital power amplifier with digital input (ie does PCM to PWM conversion), is very interesting.

If there's DSP capability on the board you could always do xover filters with it, but personally I would find digital room correction more useful, although most people are not aware of the benefits, if it was easy to use it's one if the best enhancements to almost any syatem.
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Old 18th July 2011, 09:17 AM   #219
AlexScan is offline AlexScan  France
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Near Paris too
Quote:
Originally Posted by hifimediy View Post
We will go 2.1 first. One I2S signal bus only carry 2 way signal, so the 3rd way will be mixed from the other.
I know that, but if I have 3 or 4 IS signal pre-filtered (for example with this multichannel I2S board), how I can connect the different Tripath board in PWM mode ?
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Old 18th July 2011, 01:04 PM   #220
hifimediy is offline hifimediy  China
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkdog View Post
My guess is that the leds mean, from low to high;
green 1 = signal present,
green 2 = signal at -36dB
yellow 1 = signal at -18 or -12dB
yellow 2 = signal at -6dB
red = signal clipped, ie over 0dB

It's the sort of thing you'd use with a level control...

I have level control on my digital source, so this does not really interest me so much, but a high quality digital power amplifier with digital input (ie does PCM to PWM conversion), is very interesting.

If there's DSP capability on the board you could always do xover filters with it, but personally I would find digital room correction more useful, although most people are not aware of the benefits, if it was easy to use it's one if the best enhancements to almost any syatem.
right.
this is my setting:
green 1 = signal >-40dB
green 2 = signal >-20dB
yellow 1 = signal >-5dB
yellow 2 = signal at >0dB
red = signal >10dB, and 20dB maximum.
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