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Old 8th September 2006, 02:58 PM   #111
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Default Updated schematic

Note the digital input section
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Old 8th September 2006, 03:39 PM   #112
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Default One more tweak here....

I adjusted some package sizes for the parts Brian has actually specked out. Thanks a ton for that hard work Brian.

Also adjusted a few cap values.
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Old 8th September 2006, 04:42 PM   #113
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Brian wrote:
Quote:
Another option would be the tried and true Panasonic FC...
Oh no! not again FC

IMHO and IME Elna tend to sound warm and colorfull, with fat-round bass and a little limited highs (perhaps true?)

BG N is more neutral and with good HF extension and detail but also more expensive. I have them here and eventually will do a super-E cap essay, even if all audio-experts advice the contrary

That said Rubycon is still a favorite (ZA for those sizes: 10uF/35V and 47uF/35V are both US$1.5 at http://www.referenceaudiomods.com/Me...gory_Code=RUBY )

I humbly apply as Beta tester:
Plan to--> CDPRO-2M->direct I2S->ALW superregulated 5V (3.3V worries me ) Opus DAC, balanced and DC coupled to-> transformer based volume control->balanced and DC coupled to Hypex UCD400-< Tannoy definition 500. minimalist approach.

Beware, I will consider my acceptance as beta tester as a lack of common sence from your part

Cheers,
M
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Old 8th September 2006, 04:49 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally posted by maxlorenz
I humbly apply as Beta tester:
Plan to--> CDPRO-2M->direct I2S->ALW superregulated 5V (3.3V worries me )

Cheers,
M [/B]
No worries, to do I2S in (at 5V) simply omit all the receiver related parts including the input trafo and all its associated parts. The Wolfson chip has no problem with 5V digital inputs.

Cheers!
Russ
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Old 8th September 2006, 05:15 PM   #115
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Hi Russ,
I may have been not precise in my post: I meant 5V and 3.3V power supplies. I don't know how high is my I2S digital out.

Yes, I can save a lot of parts

Cheers,
M
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Old 8th September 2006, 05:23 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally posted by maxlorenz
Hi Russ,
I may have been not precise in my post: I meant 5V and 3.3V power supplies. I don't know how high is my I2S digital out.

Yes, I can save a lot of parts

Cheers,
M

I am saying if you omit the receiver you will only need 5V. You would probably want two though.
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Old 8th September 2006, 05:29 PM   #117
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Ah! Now I see. Sorry.
Yes, I think I can get another ALWSR
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Old 8th September 2006, 06:36 PM   #118
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Rather than just grounding the extra receiver inputs, why not run 1 or 2 of them to a solder pad at the board edge? It would make the boards even more flexible.

-David
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Old 8th September 2006, 09:39 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally posted by dw8083
Rather than just grounding the extra receiver inputs, why not run 1 or 2 of them to a solder pad at the board edge? It would make the boards even more flexible.

-David

It is possible, but then I would also have to add two more jumper headers so you could install switches/jumpers to select the input. I am not sure I have room for that. I will check into it.

:EDIT: I would also have to directly AC couple RXN to GND. I am not sure is that is desirable. You could not as easily do balanced serial input.
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Old 8th September 2006, 09:53 PM   #120
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Default Progress report.

I really appreciate the thoughtful input and support provided so far. There are a lot of hours of development in this thing. I am sure many are learning a lot. I know I am!

Beta testers you are putting a lot of faith in me and this circuit. I really do not want to let you guys down. I have no idea if it will work correctly or not since I have no other way to test it but to get these boards made. So thanks for the votes of confidence, but if you are not willing to take that risk, then please just wait for us guinea pigs to finish our work. .

The best way to get success if for many eyes to look at the circuit. I am especially concerned if I am handling the following correctly.

1) Serial data rates (what if I have 48khz signal and then 192khz signal). Will I need to adjust the filter on the receiver?
2) Serial input (though I am feeling much better about it now).
3) Resets. The way I read the data sheet, the only truly necessary reset is on power up, so I think I have it right. I reset both devices at startup.
4) Master/Slave mode. This one still has me a bit puzzled.

To insure interested parties have enough time to review the circuit, I will not order the PCBs until Monday. Please, please, please take the opportunity to review things over the weekend. I will be checking email often until then.

Cheers!
Russ
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