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Old 16th December 2011, 10:11 AM   #11
GordonJ is offline GordonJ  Scotland
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Now if anyone has any tips for effectivley clearing the PCB through-holes of solder after removal of the previous components I'm all ears!

BK
Cocktail stick?
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Old 16th December 2011, 12:43 PM   #12
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It's actually pretty easy...

Solder wick: 1811-5F: TECH SPRAY: Test, Tools & Supplies

or a desoldering pump:
08-033: JAMECO VALUEPRO: Test, Tools & Supplies

For the wick, hold it on the hole with your soldering iron and it will suck the solder out.

For the pump, heat the hole from one side and suck the solder out from the other side.

If you buy either of these, they will come in handy in the future. I promise. I use both all the time. The solder wick is helpful for SMD work as well.
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Old 16th December 2011, 10:30 PM   #13
bk856er is offline bk856er  United States
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I used solder wick and pump and copious liquid flux to initially try and salvage the backwards BS250. Didn't like how that was going, and didn't want to compromise the board, so I cut the individual leads and removed them one by one. Afterwards a few holes didn't want to fully clear with wick or pump, so I set things aside to get some expert tips. Will try the pump from the opposite side of the iron with the board held vertically in a panavise - that's a good idea. Have also heard I can stick a long cut lead through the molten solder to clear holes (cocktail stick?). Desoldering always gets me very nervous and uptight!

BK
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Old 17th December 2011, 07:08 AM   #14
GordonJ is offline GordonJ  Scotland
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Have also heard I can stick a long cut lead through the molten solder to clear holes (cocktail stick?). Desoldering always gets me very nervous and uptight!

BK
Yes - that's what I do anyway. Heat, poke the stick gently through, then keep twiddling it slightly while any remaining solder cools. Less likely to get stuck than a cut lead. Tends to leave a bit of solder around the rims of the hole but at least you have a hole and that sorts itself out when you apply heat to solder in the new component.
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Old 17th December 2011, 01:30 PM   #15
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When there is solder stuck in the hole, the problem is often that it needs flux. I find the best way to deal with this is (a little counter-intuitive) to add some more solder, then suck it all out in one go (or wick it out).

Another thing I always do, add flux to the wick every time I use it. I have a no-clean flux pen that it my constant soldering companion.
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Old 18th December 2011, 08:45 AM   #16
bk856er is offline bk856er  United States
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Mission accomplished! Huge thanks to Brian for setting me up with a set of TP0604, which arrived today ahead of schedule.

The solder pump literally worked like magic. I cut the BS250 off, clamped the board vertically, and heated from one side/sucked from the other. In almost every case the cut lead got sucked out with the solder and I was left with a perfect hole. I made sure to use a freshly tinned iron with a small amount of solder on it for each position, plus some flux on the pads. Really could not have been easier. I'm kicking myself for initially trying to salvage the incorrectly installed BS250 and nearly pulling my hair out.

Populated board below - still needs a good cleaning.

BK


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Last edited by bk856er; 18th December 2011 at 08:48 AM.
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Old 18th December 2011, 03:12 PM   #17
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Sounds good, glad it worked out. I've replaced literally thousands of parts over the years being in the electronics industry. When you're not trying to save the part, and normally you aren't, it works best just to cut the part out and remove the legs one by one with tweezers, then desolder the holes. The whole purpose being to keep the pcb in perfect shape.
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Old 30th November 2012, 08:07 PM   #18
bk856er is offline bk856er  United States
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It took me nearly a year to wrap up, but the Legato surgery was a success and it's now making good music. Thanks again for the help.

BK

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Old 30th November 2012, 08:27 PM   #19
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Excellent! Looks good!
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