I finally finished my dual mono BIII. Waiting for my GB Amanero USB/I2S module, and I have to finish wiring the remaining inputs.The USB input is just stuck in there as a filler. The blue LCD will eventually be replaced by a green one. Enclosure is a Hi-Fi 2000 Pesante 3U. Machining/engraving done by Hi-Fi 2000/Modushop. I did the color fill using Testors enamel.
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Thanks Anand. Yes, I deliberately left 'bit' out. You either know or you'll ask, right?
Thanks Anand. Yes, I deliberately left 'bit' out. You either know or you'll ask, right?
The "bit" part was not my concern. My concern was the part after that.
384 Hz
vs.
384 kHz
Anand.
The "bit" part was not my concern. My concern was the part after that.
384 Hz
vs.
384 kHz
Anand.
I'll have to go back and look at the plan........
OK, I can tell you how it happened, but it still ends with it being my fault. I had the wrong front panel size at first, started over and screwed up. I been lost in the woods and didn't notice....
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I'll have to go back and look at the plan........
It looks great, I had a similar thing happen recently, too deep in the forest to see the trees
Nobody else has a 384Hz model
That is a nice looking build. Can you give a little information about the display. I would like to have some for the next one I do for myself. I would love to be able to use a VFD for the display. I just like the look.
Can anyone suggest some good caps to use as AC coupling caps. Russ suggested 4.7uf-10uf as a size. I just need to know what anyone might be using that sounds good. Prices for such animals can be ridiculous.
Can anyone suggest some good caps to use as AC coupling caps. Russ suggested 4.7uf-10uf as a size. I just need to know what anyone might be using that sounds good. Prices for such animals can be ridiculous.
As DC blocking at the balanced output or for what purpose. As dc blocking at the output of Legato Balanced I recommend Silmic II . To get better sound you have to buy very exspensive and very big caps like DCA cast .
DC blocking at the outputs are what is needed. I know that these can get really expensive. How do different values affect the sound? It sounds great as is but I nor the owner want to change the sound unless it is better. I thought of buying a few of the less expensive ones to try out. Just to see the kind of difference it makes.
It looks great, I had a similar thing happen recently, too deep in the forest to see the trees
Nobody else has a 384Hz model
Thanks for the kind words...and you are so right. The only one like it...lol
Buy 47 uf 50 V Then they will be ok for even very low impedances. My dac use 47 uf. and can be stated as world class according to a friend.
The LCD is an 20x4 white on blue display with a Hitachi HD44780 LCD controller. He uses it with 'LCD ExtraIO' from electroFUN. This is basically an port extender allowing one to control the LCD using the "two-wire interface" (I2C). The controller is an Arduino Uno.
Thanks for the kind words. I was just getting to enclosure choices when I decided to add the Arduino/LCD display. I was overwhelmed by it all and followed HiFiduino's recommendations for the HD44780 protocol displays.
INTRO H i F i D U I N O
Some folks, like DQ828, Corpius, gwiske, and bigpanda that can do code used different type displays. IIRC VFD displays will require external power due to the high mA requirements.
I had this big rats nest of wires on a breadboard with my Arduino/LCD until Corpius put me on to the electroFun LTD I2C LCDextra IO board. That reduced number of wires to run LCD. You do have to replace the Arduino LCD library with electroFUN's for it to work and add some lines to the code. Not sure if that works with VFD displays, but anyone that goes the LCD route should look into it. Not very expensive, like $9 US.
In regards to coupling caps, I saved some suggestions folks have offered in other threads. Mundorf ZN, Mundorf Supreme, Sonicaps. But I don't know caps like most of the folks here do.
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I like Mundorf ZN. What I hate is anything starting with M . Metalized caps is killing the homogeinity. They focus on the treble. And make hard midrange.
Mundorf starts with an M
Haha
What I meant was MKT, MKP, MKS etc. ZN is pure Polypropylene foil KP.
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