Why dont you just share the model inside sketchup? The files can not be opened even after renaming and using 7zip so....
I do not see why ppl need to split and rename and .... archived files.
Here are links to my models uploaded to sketchup`s 3d warehouse.
Models by gwise - Google 3D Warehouse Search
Strange. With me it works just fine. I will take you advise and upload it to the 3d warehouse.
Btw I uses some of you models. They are really good. I only took time fot getting the hifi2000 chassis right and then used some of your models to populate it. All other boards inside just haveright size, but no components on them. Just an image.
Btw I uses some of you models. They are really good. I only took time fot getting the hifi2000 chassis right and then used some of your models to populate it. All other boards inside just haveright size, but no components on them. Just an image.
Looking forward to looking closer at your project. Looks very professional 
I will upload some more components. Most of them are in the B3 WIP model, but I`ll upload them seporately as well so that they are more easily found.
The components on the pcb`s are visual only, they are not accurate. I have made the models with 2d images as reference to where to place the parts. The mount holes derived from tpa`s board outlines are accurate though.
I hope you will all find the models useful.
I will upload some more components. Most of them are in the B3 WIP model, but I`ll upload them seporately as well so that they are more easily found.
The components on the pcb`s are visual only, they are not accurate. I have made the models with 2d images as reference to where to place the parts. The mount holes derived from tpa`s board outlines are accurate though.
I hope you will all find the models useful.
Looking forward to looking closer at your project. Looks very professional
I will upload some more components. Most of them are in the B3 WIP model, but I`ll upload them seporately as well so that they are more easily found.
The components on the pcb`s are visual only, they are not accurate. I have made the models with 2d images as reference to where to place the parts. The mount holes derived from tpa`s board outlines are accurate though.
I hope you will all find the models useful.
Thanks. I tried to upload my model to the 3D warehouse, but it is to large. I'll remove all TPA boards and then it should be less then 10 MB.
Well I finally succeeded. Here's the link to the model:
Hifi2000 Slimline Corpius design by Corpius - Google 3D Warehouse
Hifi2000 Slimline Corpius design by Corpius - Google 3D Warehouse
Not at first. I will add 4 selectable inputs using at least one 75 ohm bnc connector, one AES/EBU input, one rca input (although it is not 75 ohm) and maybe a toslink. Next to the four spdif inputs I will add the teleporter/sidecar combo to take I2S directly from my CD-PRO2 transport. I`ll use the IVY I/V stage to have both single end and balanced output. To control the volume I`ll use a remote controlled motorpot and add a mute funtion to this circuit.
I`m not sure about adding a USB input, but when I choose to add a USB unput it must be able to take high res. signals, unlike the TPA usb receiver. Maybe something based on xmos like this. Then I also need another method to control all inputs, something like arduino or similar. All other suggestions are welcome here!
First I will focus on the version without USB, but when using such a large chassis it is inevitable extend the B3 later on.
Personally, I'm using the exaU2I for high-res audio via I2S input, and then the S/PDIF input board for AES/EBU, TOSLINK, and S/PDIF.
I will have balanced and single-ended out, either 2-channel mode or 8-channel mode using 5 IVY boards. 2/8-channel mode will be selected via a custom-made relay board, controlled via Arduino.
Visual display will be via Arduino as well. I am currently working on a variant/upgraded version of HiFiDUINO in collaboration with the code's author.
Currently wiring up all the outputs, which is actually time-consuming
then, I will finish the Arduino controller, make a circuit board for it, and design the front panel. Finally, the mockup will be finished! Then I will get the front/back/top/bottom panels professionally-finished and call it complete.
I suggest to you that you use HiFiDUINO to control your audio, and use an Apple remote as well. Then you can avoid the whole motorised pot and controlling/building that.
Personally, I'm using the exaU2I for high-res audio via I2S input, and then the S/PDIF input board for AES/EBU, TOSLINK, and S/PDIF.
I will have balanced and single-ended out, either 2-channel mode or 8-channel mode using 5 IVY boards. 2/8-channel mode will be selected via a custom-made relay board, controlled via Arduino.
Visual display will be via Arduino as well. I am currently working on a variant/upgraded version of HiFiDUINO in collaboration with the code's author.
Currently wiring up all the outputs, which is actually time-consuming
Then I will get the front/back/top/bottom panels professionally-finished and call it complete.
I suggest to you that you use HiFiDUINO to control your audio, and use an Apple remote as well. Then you can avoid the whole motorised pot and controlling/building that.
Yesterday I decided that I want to use HiFiDUINO for my DAC. Today I ordered the Arduino uno. Since you are also building the B3, the code should be suitable for my DAC to, but I might want to personalize it a bit. Who doesn't? I have some experience with the programming languages C# and VB. Since arduino is C# bases, this shouldn't be to much of a problem.
Perhaps you can answer this question: Since I am not a very experienced DIYer I'm going for the save and easy way building the DAC. Of course I want to use an external controller, but do not want to get lost in this. Would it be possible or harmful to remove the IC with the onboard firmware (multiple times) and fiddle a bit around with the external controller and put it back again when things turn out not to be working as intended?
Takaji, amazing, you solved the mystery!!
Takaji
Am I understanding you to say you've figured out how to build 2/8-ch B-III/EXAu2i receiving USB, s/pdif, AES etc? In addition with remote control source/volume switching and even display?
Amazing! I've been trying to do the same ( could simplify and exclude display and remote control, if necessary). I ve assembled b-III/exa w 4 x ivy on plywood, but can't figure you how to add other sources. I thought I could use sidecar and 4x spdif mux but am told by leonv it won't work w m-ch USB. I've asked for his recommended solution, but don't understand his answers and can't get further clarification.
I'm new to DIY, but have an audiophile retired EE helping me. Problem is I can't show him what the solution is.
Are you willing to give a roadmap for a newbie on how to add the spdif, etc inputs to a B-III/EXAu2i m-ch rig? Even if I have to omit display, do manual switching and omit/manual volume to simplify, that's ok. I just want to add other inputs (2-ch) to my 8-ch b-iii/ exa config.
I'm very sure now or in the future many people will want this mystery solved, as without it all users have to choose between single source USB in m-ch, or m-source in 2-ch (I know non USB sources will always be 2-ch).
Here are my questions:
1) are you willing to do some hand-holding?
2) if so a separate thread might be good. You could start one or add to mine on the topic here...
B-III: Remote control / lots of inputs / 8-ch volume??? - Buffalo DAC - Twisted Pear Audio Support
3) how hard is it to add additional sources to biii/exa? Does it require programming if manual switching/volume?
4) I'm happy to pay for your assistance and also to write up the process as a guide for others, if either helps motivate you to help
It's fabulous you've solved this mystery!!
Thanks!!
Personally, I'm using the exaU2I for high-res audio via I2S input, and then the S/PDIF input board for AES/EBU, TOSLINK, and S/PDIF.
I will have balanced and single-ended out, either 2-channel mode or 8-channel mode using 5 IVY boards. 2/8-channel mode will be selected via a custom-made relay board, controlled via Arduino.
Visual display will be via Arduino as well. I am currently working on a variant/upgraded version of HiFiDUINO in collaboration with the code's author.
Currently wiring up all the outputs, which is actually time-consuming
Then I will get the front/back/top/bottom panels professionally-finished and call it complete.
I suggest to you that you use HiFiDUINO to control your audio, and use an Apple remote as well. Then you can avoid the whole motorised pot and controlling/building that.
Takaji
Am I understanding you to say you've figured out how to build 2/8-ch B-III/EXAu2i receiving USB, s/pdif, AES etc? In addition with remote control source/volume switching and even display?
Amazing! I've been trying to do the same ( could simplify and exclude display and remote control, if necessary). I ve assembled b-III/exa w 4 x ivy on plywood, but can't figure you how to add other sources. I thought I could use sidecar and 4x spdif mux but am told by leonv it won't work w m-ch USB. I've asked for his recommended solution, but don't understand his answers and can't get further clarification.
I'm new to DIY, but have an audiophile retired EE helping me. Problem is I can't show him what the solution is.
Are you willing to give a roadmap for a newbie on how to add the spdif, etc inputs to a B-III/EXAu2i m-ch rig? Even if I have to omit display, do manual switching and omit/manual volume to simplify, that's ok. I just want to add other inputs (2-ch) to my 8-ch b-iii/ exa config.
I'm very sure now or in the future many people will want this mystery solved, as without it all users have to choose between single source USB in m-ch, or m-source in 2-ch (I know non USB sources will always be 2-ch).
Here are my questions:
1) are you willing to do some hand-holding?
2) if so a separate thread might be good. You could start one or add to mine on the topic here...
B-III: Remote control / lots of inputs / 8-ch volume??? - Buffalo DAC - Twisted Pear Audio Support
3) how hard is it to add additional sources to biii/exa? Does it require programming if manual switching/volume?
4) I'm happy to pay for your assistance and also to write up the process as a guide for others, if either helps motivate you to help
It's fabulous you've solved this mystery!!
Thanks!!
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Hi All
I’ve just completed my Teleporter Buffalo III Build
Firstly can I say what a joy the kit was to build and mention how useful and comprehensive I found the Integration guide along with the fantastic manuals provided.
I’d like to say thanks to Russ, Brian and Leon for making the build process stress free and for all of the work put in developing the Buffalo and assembling the parts required for a successful build.
Top work Guys
From what I’d read I was expecting those heat sinks to be glowing white hot but they actually run quite cool. For the BP HD I have 13.5V and 60ma shunt. For the HD 5.13V and 55ma with toes to the nose and used the aluminium chassis as a sink. Runs fairly cool to me and certainly not flaming hot by any stretch of the imagination. These units where both straight forward to set up and are behaving themselves in use which is all I can ask for. Likewise the Legato was a pleasure to build and worked first time.
The board quality is really nice on all of the Kits.
Also
Thanks for all of the SMD work you saved me from it made the DAC possible for the more clumsy types like me.
Sound quality
Well I’m sure that most people who have undertaken the Buffalo Build know what a totally outstanding DAC it is. For me I’d only heard the original MK1 with tube output stage so was building in the hope that I was going to like the results of our labours.
She’s been making music for the last day or so and I’m totally blown away by the music that I’m hearing through your DAC. The music just seems to wash over me and sounds totally natural and convincing. Just superb and getting better as it breaks in.
A superb DAC and at the price it’s a steal.
Fun to build
‘’Less Pulp more Juice’’
Oh yes indeed
I’ll post my Teleporter front end effort over on that thread.
Thanks Guys.
I’ve just completed my Teleporter Buffalo III Build
Firstly can I say what a joy the kit was to build and mention how useful and comprehensive I found the Integration guide along with the fantastic manuals provided.
I’d like to say thanks to Russ, Brian and Leon for making the build process stress free and for all of the work put in developing the Buffalo and assembling the parts required for a successful build.
Top work Guys
From what I’d read I was expecting those heat sinks to be glowing white hot but they actually run quite cool. For the BP HD I have 13.5V and 60ma shunt. For the HD 5.13V and 55ma with toes to the nose and used the aluminium chassis as a sink. Runs fairly cool to me and certainly not flaming hot by any stretch of the imagination. These units where both straight forward to set up and are behaving themselves in use which is all I can ask for. Likewise the Legato was a pleasure to build and worked first time.
The board quality is really nice on all of the Kits.
Also
Thanks for all of the SMD work you saved me from it made the DAC possible for the more clumsy types like me.
Sound quality
Well I’m sure that most people who have undertaken the Buffalo Build know what a totally outstanding DAC it is. For me I’d only heard the original MK1 with tube output stage so was building in the hope that I was going to like the results of our labours.
She’s been making music for the last day or so and I’m totally blown away by the music that I’m hearing through your DAC. The music just seems to wash over me and sounds totally natural and convincing. Just superb and getting better as it breaks in.
A superb DAC and at the price it’s a steal.
Fun to build
‘’Less Pulp more Juice’’
Oh yes indeed
I’ll post my Teleporter front end effort over on that thread.
Thanks Guys.
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Hi J
This one for the Legato
http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/docs/linestages/legato_user_manual_3.1.0.pdf
and this one for the Placid BP HD and also Placid HD which is just the positive side of the HD BP so still good.
http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/docs/power/placid_hd_bp_1.0_manual.pdf
I hope they help
take care
This one for the Legato
http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/docs/linestages/legato_user_manual_3.1.0.pdf
and this one for the Placid BP HD and also Placid HD which is just the positive side of the HD BP so still good.
http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/docs/power/placid_hd_bp_1.0_manual.pdf
I hope they help
take care
Int Guide
Hi Shoom,
I understand those manuals, but there is really no B3 manual correct?
I look at the B3 integration manual and am confused right off the bat when they say solder the din 1 into place. OK, but many of the pictures of completed dacs don't show that piece added???
Then second, it says to solder the VD 18 onto the board. This is the new version just out today or so. The last version said VD 8. I think these are both wrong and should say VD 16. Am I correct?
So this is why I wonder if I am in over my head without electrical engineering background.
Jeff
Hi Shoom,
I understand those manuals, but there is really no B3 manual correct?
I look at the B3 integration manual and am confused right off the bat when they say solder the din 1 into place. OK, but many of the pictures of completed dacs don't show that piece added???
Then second, it says to solder the VD 18 onto the board. This is the new version just out today or so. The last version said VD 8. I think these are both wrong and should say VD 16. Am I correct?
So this is why I wonder if I am in over my head without electrical engineering background.
Jeff
No official B3 manual has been released. The reason is simple: virtually all of the information in the manual is also included in the guide, and the guide includes much more extra information to make it easier for you to build the DAC.
Sorry to confuse you, but I rushed out the new version. You are correct that the number should have been 16. I'll correct it in a later version. And no, you don't need an EE background to build the DAC.
Sorry to confuse you, but I rushed out the new version. You are correct that the number should have been 16. I'll correct it in a later version. And no, you don't need an EE background to build the DAC.
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