You should be able to zero out the balanced outputs
You will need to readjust again after zeroing the SE output.
You have to do this several times sometimes to get it perfect as they interact with each other.
I personally would never use a tantalum cap at the output. A film cap is a much better choice.
You will need to readjust again after zeroing the SE output.
You have to do this several times sometimes to get it perfect as they interact with each other.
I personally would never use a tantalum cap at the output. A film cap is a much better choice.
replacement caps (C1-4 and 19-22)
I have some axial relcap 2200pf foil/styrenes that I was thinking about using in all 8 positions. Probably will mount them under the board to get leads as short as possible. But I don't understand much about higher frequency circuits, and have 2 questions:
1. Advantage of radial caps is such short leads, but is this more important the the other aspects of the cap design in this circuit?
2. If the longer leads aren't a problem, I have a choice of mounting them vertically, with one short lead and one long, or flat with approximately even lead lengths. Is there an advantage to having one lead shorter, and if so, which side should be the short lead? (IC1-C4 seems like the ground side could be longer, not sure about 19-22.)
Thanks in advance!
I have some axial relcap 2200pf foil/styrenes that I was thinking about using in all 8 positions. Probably will mount them under the board to get leads as short as possible. But I don't understand much about higher frequency circuits, and have 2 questions:
1. Advantage of radial caps is such short leads, but is this more important the the other aspects of the cap design in this circuit?
2. If the longer leads aren't a problem, I have a choice of mounting them vertically, with one short lead and one long, or flat with approximately even lead lengths. Is there an advantage to having one lead shorter, and if so, which side should be the short lead? (IC1-C4 seems like the ground side could be longer, not sure about 19-22.)
Thanks in advance!
I'm having a bit of a weird issue with the Buffalo 3 / Legato 3.1 and the Kevin Gilmore Dynamid (Balanced Dynalo) - I get no sound except when I'm powering down the amp. I'm assuming this design requires the use of output caps and some protection circuit is kicking in, but I'm really unsure. The unbalanced outputs of the Legato work perfectly with a small amp I use for testing.
Any ideas?
NOTICE: Looking at the schematic of the Dynamid amp, it's running in bridge mode where Input and Ground are separated only by a resistor and all 4 channels operate independently, so it might really by an off-case scenario that it doesn't play well with Ground/Signal DC.
Any ideas?
NOTICE: Looking at the schematic of the Dynamid amp, it's running in bridge mode where Input and Ground are separated only by a resistor and all 4 channels operate independently, so it might really by an off-case scenario that it doesn't play well with Ground/Signal DC.
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My Legato 1.0.3 is not working any more and I am trying to do a bit of fault finding. The switch relay appears to earth the output of the opamp when there is no +-12V supply present. Could somebody explain the function of this and why it is desirable to do this?
I presume that if the relay/switch was removed, the Legato would function normally? What are the downsides to removing the relay/switch?
Many thanks in advance for the help
I presume that if the relay/switch was removed, the Legato would function normally? What are the downsides to removing the relay/switch?
Many thanks in advance for the help
Could someone please help me to make sure i'm doing it right:
i recently built Buffalo III with Legato 3.1 and while configuring Placid HD was quck and i ended with something like 520mA with 50ma being shunted, but my Legato only eats 230mA per side at -13/13V input.
Isn't it kinda low? From manual i know it supposed to eat 350mA, but if i set BP to that i get 200mA+ shunted and heatsinks get pretty hot...
It does play music for 2 days now and all seem to be normal, although i have a feeling it's a bit "soft" atm and could use a bit more dynamics\attack\drive (compared to previous dac i had). I'll be getting bigger trafo soon (i have only 30VA atm) as some people suggested and maybe increase voltages to 15V on Placid BP once i'm sure about temperatures...
i recently built Buffalo III with Legato 3.1 and while configuring Placid HD was quck and i ended with something like 520mA with 50ma being shunted, but my Legato only eats 230mA per side at -13/13V input.
Isn't it kinda low? From manual i know it supposed to eat 350mA, but if i set BP to that i get 200mA+ shunted and heatsinks get pretty hot... It does play music for 2 days now and all seem to be normal, although i have a feeling it's a bit "soft" atm and could use a bit more dynamics\attack\drive (compared to previous dac i had). I'll be getting bigger trafo soon (i have only 30VA atm) as some people suggested and maybe increase voltages to 15V on Placid BP once i'm sure about temperatures...
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