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#301 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utrecht
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#302 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
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... today I am very happy with my package arrived in the new Buffalo II, and the new IVY III....
![]() Now I can compare with buffalo dac first series. I keep you updated .... tips if you change one component? greetings |
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#303 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
2) See answer #1 3) Yes but I would not use more than 10K. The pot is not critical in the least. 4) Well yes, you would need 3 bipolar supplies of some sort. 5) about ~50 per supply. The placid work best at about 100ma or above so I would never use less current than that. 6) Technically yes, but you would need to change the placid circuit a bit, practically I would never suggest it. I will plublish current specs for these later. I just can't remember off the top of my head. But I do know that none use more than about ~60ma. So the 100ma suggestion above would hold. 7) VD pads are there so that you can use the VD power supply to feed the local regulators if you choose. You don't have to use them, but there is no harm in doing so. You can always use the AVCC shunt regardless of what you do at the other three spots.Now to explain how you *could* use placid for both 3.3V and 1.2V. For 1.2V you would need to replace the opamp with a low voltage R2R input and output opamp. Then you would need to use two schottky diodes as a reference, or one silicon diode and one resistor. You would also not use the NPN on the shunt, and short the emitter resistor on the PNP (or use something like 1R). This limits you to shunting < 40ma or so. I have actually done this and it works fine. The opamp I used has a max supply voltage of 5.5V. Be aware of such things. This is not something someone who does not understand the circuit should try. You can do the same thing for 3.3V. Or you can usually use the supplied opamp and one LED and one silicon diode for the VREF. It's not a trivial thing to do. Is it worth all the trouble? I just don't know. ![]() I do have a nice little 3 pin regulator coming for both 3.3V and 1.2V that is tailor made for the application. I would much prefer that to trying to use placid at each spot. Cheers! Russ
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Less pulp more juice Twisted Pear Audio. Last edited by Russ White; 30th March 2010 at 12:42 PM. |
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#304 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thanks Russ,
I know about the pot, but i use a big knob and need more momentum. I don't know how you say that in English. "I do have a nice little 3 pin regulator coming for both 3.3V and 1.2V that is tailor made for the application". Good, i will wait for that. btw, if I replace the 2 green leds with ones with Vf 1,65V, that would work to get 3.3V ? Before selling any single Placid, could you tell me what type of supply i need for the upcoming Counterpoint II ? Best regards, Erik. |
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#305 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
![]() The counterpoint II will work very well with either Placid BP or LCBPS with the preference toward the placid BP. Cheers! Russ
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Less pulp more juice Twisted Pear Audio. |
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#306 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Katowice
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Russ,
I asked about that before but without answer so: What is the output current of each DAC (1 of 4 per channel) or total current per channel in *CURRENT MODE*? Regards Marek |
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#307 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Brisbane
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Thanks Nic.
Was having a 'senior moment' as it were. glt's blog does indeed provide all the info I need
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Buffalo II/Denon AH-D2000
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#308 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Israel
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Is there any benefit in using Metronome in front of Buffalo-II?
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#309 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rock Ridge
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No.
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Twisted Pear Audio |
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#310 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Israel
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