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#301 | |
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diyAudio Member
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It is technically possible, but the results would not be ideal. It not really designed for filters lower than say fs/2. Cheers! Russ
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Less pulp more juice Twisted Pear Audio. |
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#302 |
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diyAudio Member
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I would not exceed 15V supplies as things would start to run very very hot.
12V batteries would work nicely, and I see no reason not to try them. You could even use a 6V battery for VD. Just don't exceed 7.5V or so or the 1.2V regulator will get pretty hot. 4.5-5V would be more ideal. Cheers! Russ
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Less pulp more juice Twisted Pear Audio. |
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#303 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: The Netherlands
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Seems like my package is 'stuck' in customs.
Quote:
Have other packages been sent to Holland, or maybe shipments of other kits?
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E-MU 0404 . Behringer DEQ2496 . TDA1543 NOS . JLTi tube buffered LM3875 . Supravox 215 Signature Bicone 125L vented |
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#304 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rock Ridge
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Quote:
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Twisted Pear Audio |
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#305 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: The Netherlands
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Mail sent to orderstatus@tw..
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E-MU 0404 . Behringer DEQ2496 . TDA1543 NOS . JLTi tube buffered LM3875 . Supravox 215 Signature Bicone 125L vented |
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#306 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Switzerland
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Quote:
To utilize the potential advantages of a battery supply, you should switch off all AC circuitry when the DAC is in use, and automatically charge the battery when the DAC is not in use. This way the battery would supply power for both the analog and digital sections, no static or magnetic ac-strayfields would be present. Depending on the battery, you should get a couple of hours playtime, before a recharge would be required. I have seen this concept realized in the DAC of a german supplier. Using batteries only for the analog section is, in my opinion, a halfway solution. Kurt |
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#307 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Dublin
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Paralleling batteries is said to result in higher current/lower impedance & lower noise! Slarti, Here's a guy who uses batteries on the old Buffalo board http://theartofsound.net/forum/showp...0&postcount=48 |
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#308 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Here it is, with latest mods:
1. Analog & digital earths joined. 2. Output tracks cut to enable 22 ohm resistors. Box is diecast aluminium from Altronics (kit electronics supplier here in Melbourne) http://web.mac.com/strideg/iWeb/Site/Photos.html |
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#309 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rock Ridge
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Twisted Pear Audio |
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#310 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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I'm in process of building a single-ended cathode follower stereo 3 w/ch amp from Transcendent Sound (pp using downloaded plans). I also received a 32S from the last buy and am putting it together. I've noticed that some of you are running directly from your computer to the 32S and then to a stereo (or two mono bloc) SE power amp(s) without the use of a preamp.
Could anyone share whether a preamp would be needed. I have no interest in any other music source than my Mac Mini so 1 input is all that I need. I'll be connecting via optical output on the Mac to Toslink on the 32S. My speakers are 94db single driver Fostex 166E. If I add a volumite to the 32S, would that be adequate to control volume and avoid the need for a separate preamp? One limitation might be the standard pot on the volumite? If going without a preamp works, wouldn't then adding a passive transformer attenuator take the volumite to a higher quality level? Here's a link to a reasonably priced entry level passive preamp that might work: http://www.diyhifisupply.com/?q=cata...sc&order=Price Am I heading in the right direction or am I missing something here? |
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