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#121 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi.
I got some questions: 1. Anybody around who built a Toslink input for the Buffalo DAC? Any recommendations? 2. What kind of inputs are available on the 8 channel Sabre evaluation board? 3. Anybody out there who had a look at an 8 channel LPCM HDMI receiver? This might be a very nice idea to feed the multichannel Sabre!?! ( Intention: Active crossover with Brutefir using a HDMI-GPU ( e.g. Nvidia) for 8 channel LPCM) THX
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::: Squeezebox Touch Toolbox 3.0 and more ::: by soundcheck |
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#122 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Cheltenham
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Thanks for your input Beefy. I don't think it's a PC related issue, though I'm blowed if I can think what it might be. I'll need to get a transport with a co-ax digital output to rule that out.
Those screen shots are sine waves, by the way! |
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#123 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ireland
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Can someone tell me the correct way to orient the relay on the IVY? Or if someone had an assembled pic that would be even better!
Got all the stuff built today - the paint is drying on the casework!! Thanks, Fran |
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#124 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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#125 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rock Ridge
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Twisted Pear Audio |
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#126 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Spartacus, send me some pics of your setup. Are you using the D1 terminal for SPDIF input or the comparator input (SPDIF terminal)? If you using the D1 for SPDIF input (TTL level) the SPDIF switch must be open. Otherwise D1 will be shorted to the comparator output. If you are using the "SPDIF" terminal then that switch should be closed. Cheers! Russ
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Less pulp more juice Twisted Pear Audio. |
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#127 |
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diyAudio Member
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Also if you wan to input SPDIF on D1, you should probably use a coupling cap.
Cheers! Russ
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Less pulp more juice Twisted Pear Audio. |
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#128 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ireland
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Thanks Brian,
Progress report: Case done and painted. LCDPS/LCBPS/DAC/IVY all put together and ready to mount. After a little more spit and polish on the case I should be ready to assemble. I'm hoping to have sounds tomorrow night! 2 more Q's: 1. The green LEDs for automute and lock - is it OK to substitute different LEDS for these? I fancy some red ones through the fascia.. 2. What is the purpose of the automute? When, if ever should it kick in? Thanks Fran BTW: impeccably put together kits, really neat, although I think I will need glasses after doing the SMD opamps on the back of the IVY. With these fingers I need big buttons!! |
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#129 | |
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diyAudio Member
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I would not bother with using the SPIDF board as a transmitter for the DVD-1920. It would just be redundant. The reason it makes sense for the Oppo is that it converts the DSD to PCM. The Denon does not. Cheers! Russ
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Less pulp more juice Twisted Pear Audio. |
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#130 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Conditions under which the DAC enters automute are dictated by the firmware to some extent. It will be on until the DAC locks onto a signal. It can also be set to automute when a defined length of silence is reached. The default value for this is too short resulting in unwanted mute states during track transitions etc. Our firmware disables this as it really is not needed. Any LED < 2.5V forward should work fine. So feel free to swap green for red or whatever you like. Though most blue and white LEDs will have too high a drop. Most green, red, and yellow should be ok. I would not worry much, the worst that would happen is the LED won't light. Cheers! Russ
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Less pulp more juice Twisted Pear Audio. |
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| My ESS Sabre Buffalo DAC | Algar_emi | Digital Line Level | 10 | 5th March 2009 01:19 PM |
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