diyAudio

diyAudio (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/)
-   Twin Audio (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twin-audio/)
-   -   Custom-made Cabinet Order (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twin-audio/180328-custom-made-cabinet-order.html)

borispm 3rd January 2011 12:34 PM

Custom-made Cabinet Order
 
1 Attachment(s)
Hi Tony,

I would like to have a pair of custom build desktop speaker cabinets for my Aurasound NS3-194-8A drivers that have been lying around for some time now. How much is it going to cost (in HKD)? The cabinets should be around 10" X 6" X 7", just very simple bipole design, with 1/2" boards all around. By the way is it possible to have a removable rear baffle for easier installation and adjustments and will it cost extra?

As this is my first solid project, I would like to keep the cost more manageable without sacrificing too much, will I save more if I opt for MDF with high gloss veneer or high gloss paint, or will the solid wood be a better choice?

Attached is a basic sketchup for the design, I would send you a detailed Google Sketchup model as well as more details soon.

Cheers, and happy new year (and soon happy Lunar New Year!)

Musik007 3rd January 2011 01:46 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Hi Boris,

Happy New Year and Good Luck!

Questions:
1. Is this box a sealed cabinet?
2. Can install three drivers including one driver inside?
3. What is the advantages for this box design?

The price difference among MDF, plywood and wood are small for such compact sized box. But for the board thickness 1/2"(12.7mm), 12 mm MDF is possible. Is this OK? It's possible to have a removable rear baffle and this will not cost too much.

Thanks,
Tony.

Aurasound NS4-194-8A 4" full Range

borispm 3rd January 2011 02:42 PM

Tony,

This is the driver I have got, it's not the 4" one, instead it's the legendary 3" aluminum driver. ;-)
https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...products_id=83

First of all, this is a sealed cabinet.

Secondly, the hole inside is not meant for driver mounting, instead it's just a hole on a board for bracing to strengthen the cabinet, so only two drivers (one on front baffle, one on rear) will be used. Sorry for the misleading drawing. I just want to make sure the cabinet is as acoustically dead as possible.

This bipole design eliminates the need of baffle step compensation and are force canceling and the benefit of doing so is to get rid of coloration due to slightly off-valued resistor and inductor, and to minimize vibration.

12mm MDF should do, but if the price is similar, will it be better to get plywood, especially I want to have the hole around the driver routed like the one in this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-...s3-193-8a.html

I would also like to rear-mount the drivers like the way it was mounted in the thread mentioned above.

Finally, can I get it painted in high gloss white (piano finish), and how much are the cabinets going to cost?

I will try to convert the scale of my current model to mm instead of inches asap and I will send you it soon.

Thanks,

Boris

borispm 3rd January 2011 03:16 PM

P.s. I don't want to ruin the cabinet with my unskilled hands, instead would you mind having the screws for driver mounting fitted in the right place so all I have to do is to unscrew them from the boards, mount the drivers, and rescrew them?

Also can you provide me the binding posts and have them installed as well? I don't need Cardas or WBT, just the one you use all the time will do.

At last, how much clearance from the edge should I leave for the removable baffle? I am a bit worried that I didn't keep enough clearance for screwing.

Musik007 3rd January 2011 03:48 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Hi Boris,

Undstood what you mean.

I'll ask the MDF/Plywod maker whether he has 12mm plywood board. Rear-mount the drivers should like the picture attached.

MDF/plywood with veneer are available only now. The picture is MDF cabient with ebony veneer.

Please send me the drawing in detail.

Thanks,
Tony.


Quote:

Originally Posted by borispm (Post 2419775)
Tony,

This is the driver I have got, it's not the 4" one, instead it's the legendary 3" aluminum driver. ;-)
https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...products_id=83

First of all, this is a sealed cabinet.

Secondly, the hole inside is not meant for driver mounting, instead it's just a hole on a board for bracing to strengthen the cabinet, so only two drivers (one on front baffle, one on rear) will be used. Sorry for the misleading drawing. I just want to make sure the cabinet is as acoustically dead as possible.

This bipole design eliminates the need of baffle step compensation and are force canceling and the benefit of doing so is to get rid of coloration due to slightly off-valued resistor and inductor, and to minimize vibration.

12mm MDF should do, but if the price is similar, will it be better to get plywood, especially I want to have the hole around the driver routed like the one in this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-...s3-193-8a.html

I would also like to rear-mount the drivers like the way it was mounted in the thread mentioned above.

Finally, can I get it painted in high gloss white (piano finish), and how much are the cabinets going to cost?

I will try to convert the scale of my current model to mm instead of inches asap and I will send you it soon.

Thanks,

Boris


borispm 3rd January 2011 04:00 PM

Hi Tony,

I am sad to learn that the piano gloss is no longer available. Which veneer will look better if I want something light in color? Should I try maple or maghony? Btw, how much should the cabinets cost?

Musik007 3rd January 2011 04:31 PM

You need to check the hole size of screw of the driver. I think M3 may be fit. I have M3 hex screws.

I have binding posts.

Not understand what you mean for "how much clearance from the edge should I leave for the removable baffle? I am a bit worried that I didn't keep enough clearance for screwing." You may need to make more drawing to explain.

Quote:

Originally Posted by borispm (Post 2419818)
P.s. I don't want to ruin the cabinet with my unskilled hands, instead would you mind having the screws for driver mounting fitted in the right place so all I have to do is to unscrew them from the boards, mount the drivers, and rescrew them?

Also can you provide me the binding posts and have them installed as well? I don't need Cardas or WBT, just the one you use all the time will do.

At last, how much clearance from the edge should I leave for the removable baffle? I am a bit worried that I didn't keep enough clearance for screwing.


Musik007 3rd January 2011 04:37 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Gloss piano finishing may be avaiable later. I know some one hate speaker cabient in piano gloss. Light color veneer like this.

Need to check price of the cabinet.

Quote:

Originally Posted by borispm (Post 2419863)
Hi Tony,

I am sad to learn that the piano gloss is no longer available. Which veneer will look better if I want something light in color? Should I try maple or maghony? Btw, how much should the cabinets cost?


borispm 3rd January 2011 11:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Musik007 (Post 2419893)
You need to check the hole size of screw of the driver. I think M3 may be fit. I have M3 hex screws.

I have binding posts.

Not understand what you mean for "how much clearance from the edge should I leave for the removable baffle? I am a bit worried that I didn't keep enough clearance for screwing." You may need to make more drawing to explain.

I suspect I need some clearance from the edge of the removable baffle for screwing the baffle to the main cabinet otherwise there won't be enough space around the screws and the board may crack. I have no experience in woodwork so I am worried.

Please let me know if the piano gloss is back! I still wish to have them painted in high gloss white!

By the way will the screws be a bit too long for driver mounting? I hope they are not going to reach the exterior of the baffle. ;-)
Thanks,
Boris

Musik007 4th January 2011 01:14 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Boris,

No worry about the clearance from the edge of the removable baffle for screwing the baffle, the experienced carpenter knows the suitable clearance. See picture.

How many cabinets in piano gloss do you want to make? Factory is often interested in the order with quantity.

The length of M3 hex screw for driver mounting I have is 10mm which is for CHR-70.

Thanks,
Tony.

Quote:

Originally Posted by borispm (Post 2420320)
I suspect I need some clearance from the edge of the removable baffle for screwing the baffle to the main cabinet otherwise there won't be enough space around the screws and the board may crack. I have no experience in woodwork so I am worried.

Please let me know if the piano gloss is back! I still wish to have them painted in high gloss white!

By the way will the screws be a bit too long for driver mounting? I hope they are not going to reach the exterior of the baffle. ;-)
Thanks,
Boris



All times are GMT. The time now is 12:33 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio


Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2