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| Tubes / Valves All about our sweet vacuum tubes :) Threads about Musical Instrument Amps of all kinds should be in the Instruments & Amps forum |
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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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OK OK OK now I know I always said that indirectly heated tubes were the way to go
BUT... I seem to have got me a couple of Shuguang 300B-98's and some 3.5K OPTS - oops! - I already have a range of HT transformers. This amp is supposedly something simple, whilst I mull over the Gargantuan P-P amp that will eventually take over the world... Heck, I'm even considering cathode bias. So my first question (& this is a SE amp). The common (Standard)bias point seems to be around -80V with 400v B+ (ok maybe not exactly there but in that ballpark) WHY? What am I missing? looking at this from the point of view of a total noob to DHT and certainly the 300B, whats 'wrong' with at most 300v on the plate at 90-100Ma, OK that's not max Pout but the tube is then operating in a linear area... At the moment I'm looking at say 260 - 270v on the plate, Just -50v (fixed) bias, and 90-100ma But that seems really unconventional. So what gives. As always any guidance / pointers gratefully received - & I did search honest! Andy |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Sofia
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Just curious: how well does your output transformer like 100mA?
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Quote:
I understand a little of what you mean though, having just dumped KT88's at 100MA with some piddly little transformers in favour of EL34's because the reduction in standing current paid big dividends. However, in that case the tube still has plenty of beans. Biasing an 300b at -80v when my chart runs out of curves at -120 seems optimistic. I'm on thin ice here and I know it, unknown OPT's and an unknown tube type. heh heh, well I guess this'll be what they call "a learnin' experience" Andy |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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Andy,
A chart of 300B operating points gives: 350 V. on the plate, -76 V. on the grid, and Ib = 50 mA. into a 3.6 KOhm load as yielding 7.8 W. That should get you going. You don't see many "fixed" bias 300B amps due to the possibility of runaway. There are a number of ways to prevent runaway. Combination bias is the method I favor. You'll have to bypass the smallish cathode resistor with your O/P trafos. Driving the 300B with a voltage follower allows for a small grid leak resistor and little chance for runaway. A 3rd technique is the use of a grid choke, instead of a grid leak resistor. Low DCR is combined with a high AC impedance.
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Eli D. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Finger Lakes, NY
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Quote:
Anyway, I think that running at a lower operating point offers the very real advantage that you could build a two stage amp. Avoiding a third stage is worthwhile IMHO. A 5687 or its cousins can drive a 300B grid with 50V peak directly from a CDP output. -- Dave
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January 20, 2009: Bush's last day |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chicago
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Quote:
My experience with this particular tube is that is can sound hard, but running the heaters low (mine are at about 4.3V) improves things considerably. |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Quote:
When [and if] the thing works sucessfully then different tubes can be tried. I didnt want to shell out on the expensive ones only to find out that running closer to the 100Ma limit would effectively deal them hot electric death... Andy |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chicago
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Quote:
Oh, you also might want a higher current VReg instead of the LM317 -- the heaters draw 1.2A (1.22A or so for mine IIRC) which is pretty close to the 1.5A limit o nthe part. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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I've made a couple of 300B amps, from 450V, 400V, 350V plate voltage and I finally settled on 350V. I didn't care for all the power I could get since my speakers can be driven to party level by even a type 10. To me the 350V operating point posted by Eli has the better SQ based on my equipment. Never used DC heaters and has always used AC on my DHT amps.
Having said that, I was able to convince my friend who's suffering from a type 26 hum issues and for the longest time does not want to use DC as it will "affect" the sound. So after much encouragement, he finally went DC with his 26 but never liked the sound. He tinkered around and said, if fed 80% of the filament voltage, he's getting "close to AC" performance. He's using current regulation (did I say that right?) |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Quote:
Actually I wonder If I'm actually confused over the ratings, since my data sheet is a JJ one, or the STC one (all 3 pages) that you pointed out. Its clearly saying that 100Ma is max for quiescent. Is there a decent datasheet anywhere I could be pointed at? I clearly need to do more maths... For the sake of discussion I've attached the curves I was using, from the electro harmonix datasheet, (I'm allowed to do this? apologies if not, but it WAS in the public domain.) Andy |
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