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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Norway
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Hello...
I'm contemplating building my own KT88 or 6L6 push pull amplifier to be used in a bi-amplified system in the bass region (as a "different" but potent alternative to my Lectron JH50). In the mid/highs I will be using a WE-91 type SE amp. I would really like your comments on this: I have have done a bit research and found that this DIY project by Pete Millet may seem "promising": http://www.pmillett.com/push-pull_kt...driver_pcb.htm I can swap tubes in this one between KT88 or 6L6, - BUT is it any good? What about input trafo for phase splitting instead of any tubed solution? What is your opinion and recommendation? Should I just give up on making my own, because amps like these exists, and a pair can be mine for 1700 USD in total: http://www.melodyhifi.com/S88.html And finally, - another question. Do anybody have any experience with such OPT's as these: http://www.tubebuilder.com/mdcorexfmrs.html Looking very much forward to your answers and input. Best Regards
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Yoda: "May the Force be with You" Acoustic design: www.fmdesign.com Check out the Griffin loudspeakers! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Hong Kong
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hi we91,
I was testing full line of this tube amp from japan. they work good. sound great. But still had some space can improve. If change to nnao amorphous OPT can improve the sound. I will do. Since the phase spitting tubes such as ECC84 was cheap in market U will have many choice such as telefunken, valvo & mullard & reasonable price. thx thomas this is circuit.
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Sofia
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Quote:
1. IMHO the "universal driver" is a solid, working solution. Nothing about it strikes as being particularly smart or original; i guess that's the price for being universal. Otoh, it's not that universal either. I have doubts about its ability to drive convincingly 300B and it seems inappropriate for any kind of nfb i.e. pentodes. So, you have to live with trioded KT88/6L6 etc as the UL mode is likely to result too high output impedance. I'll take a pentode KT88 any day, especially in a multi-amped system. 2. The Melody amp is probably quite nice, especially second hand as it's is not likely to keep it's value too well. A valid choice, but think about all the nice iron you can buy for the price - entry level Tango/Tamura/James is quite possible. 3. Never heard of MD cores. Building a nice tube amp is expensive and time consuming. Only the best iron is worth using - see 2. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Norway
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Thank you very much for your answers, Tube-Lover and analog-sa!
I will choose a KT88 amp for the bass in my multi-amp (bi amp) system. I have plenty of time in finding a good solution, though. I do have the 50W PP EL34 Lectron. I will be on the look out for good used PP KT88 amps. If none shows up, I'll just "roll my own" using good iron and a tube rectified psu. Good DIY and kit PP KT88 amp-designs wanted! Best Regards Aril
__________________
Yoda: "May the Force be with You" Acoustic design: www.fmdesign.com Check out the Griffin loudspeakers! |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Hong Kong
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: near Duesseldorf
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Hi Thomas,
this is an analog the Q.U.A.D. II schematic; the grids of the input pentode an the phase inverter pentode have different potential to ground! In the QUAD-amplifiers (EF86, KT66) this works fine, may be feedback helps? Regards Andreas |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Yes, that last circuit is indeed copied from the Quad II.
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Norway
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... Since I posted this thread, I've found that I'm not going for a Chineese ready-made amp, even if the Melody amps seems a really good choice (some of the best from China?).
I'm going to build it my-self! Thank you, Thomas/Tube Lover for your schematics. I've yet to see them properly, though. I do not know how to amplify Thank's AndreasS and EC8010 for your comments on the last schematic! What I "need" is a PP amp thats renown for its rich tone and clarity in the midrange, together with a realy superior, tight and extended bass. My thought has been KT88 or 6L6, - but a really well executed PP DHT amp is also of interest. Although, please do not recommend any 211, 845 or the likes, as I do not like to push the envelope too far on electricution Best Regards Aril
__________________
Yoda: "May the Force be with You" Acoustic design: www.fmdesign.com Check out the Griffin loudspeakers! |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: near Duesseldorf
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Superior bass tends to mean PP simply because it's so difficult to do the output transformer for SE bass and still have some treble.
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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