I forgot to mention another two changes:
8. I have shielded the output transformers with copper foil
9. I have changed the way filament are connected using a star topology because I've noticed an important loss of voltage on the provided yellow wires. Now all filaments are around 6.3V AC.
10. Here are some pictures:
8. I have shielded the output transformers with copper foil
9. I have changed the way filament are connected using a star topology because I've noticed an important loss of voltage on the provided yellow wires. Now all filaments are around 6.3V AC.
10. Here are some pictures:
Attachments
CityPooh,
At the hifi meeting in Slovenia I see there is a small Chinese amp with 4 x 6P1 output valves. I have one similar. How did it sound? I had to do similar mods to mine as some have done to the Yacqin, that is, a series resistor for the heaters and series resistor in the B+ to get the voltage down. Thanks,
Ian.
At the hifi meeting in Slovenia I see there is a small Chinese amp with 4 x 6P1 output valves. I have one similar. How did it sound? I had to do similar mods to mine as some have done to the Yacqin, that is, a series resistor for the heaters and series resistor in the B+ to get the voltage down. Thanks,
Ian.
zbodeoc, you did a massive work on it..Congrats..
K42Y capacitors i tried on speakers, bit i assume that they need a lot of hours to burn in(as Mundorfs Silver Oil), they sound very conscrticted at first, so i decided to put in Jantzens Superior, because their amazing depth and airyness is very similar to Mundorf SO.
JS s do not need no long burning in(that is really amazing feature) .
They came here in SLO relatively cheap, because the Slovenian importer of Yaqin and Jantzen(here is named Tonewin) cutted the prices for Jantzen for 30%.
I get the idea from Tommy Gee s and Jon L s articles on high end capacitors and putting cheap Vishay MKP1837 on tweeters also makes miracles on highs.
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f21/orgy-capacitors-cap-thread-284863/
Now he is putting in all Tonewin tube amps he imports, Jantzens Superiors and even Jantzen Silvers on demand(way too expensive for this kind of amp), as an special upgrade, and our Dynaco importer is copying him, so he is putting expensive Intertechnik Audyn Cap Plus MKPs in Dynacos and both of them are advertising that as "big imrovement"..
It is reasonably better sounding, but big?
Try Vostok 6N1P EV bulk for 1EU each, paired with an pair of originals.
K42Y capacitors i tried on speakers, bit i assume that they need a lot of hours to burn in(as Mundorfs Silver Oil), they sound very conscrticted at first, so i decided to put in Jantzens Superior, because their amazing depth and airyness is very similar to Mundorf SO.
JS s do not need no long burning in(that is really amazing feature) .
They came here in SLO relatively cheap, because the Slovenian importer of Yaqin and Jantzen(here is named Tonewin) cutted the prices for Jantzen for 30%.
I get the idea from Tommy Gee s and Jon L s articles on high end capacitors and putting cheap Vishay MKP1837 on tweeters also makes miracles on highs.
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f21/orgy-capacitors-cap-thread-284863/
Now he is putting in all Tonewin tube amps he imports, Jantzens Superiors and even Jantzen Silvers on demand(way too expensive for this kind of amp), as an special upgrade, and our Dynaco importer is copying him, so he is putting expensive Intertechnik Audyn Cap Plus MKPs in Dynacos and both of them are advertising that as "big imrovement"..
It is reasonably better sounding, but big?
Try Vostok 6N1P EV bulk for 1EU each, paired with an pair of originals.
Ian444
On my Tube DAC that amplifier sounded as others tube amps importer bringed there-kind of dull, only the 5881 sounded terrific.
But my DAC uses two ECC88-6922, 6N1P-EV, the same tubes as they are in 5881, and that is the reason, it is very, very compatible with 5881.
After that show, my friends tested other amps from that show in the various very different setups and with Tempoelectric DIY interconnects and speaker cables( we "infested" our forum members with them), they all played very well(considering the price of the amps), if the components of the setup were compatible to them.
I think the best improvement( and not costly) for tube amp is Tempoelectric DIY wiring..
I borrowed Tempolectric interconnects with cheap Neutrik RCAs(finished with RCAs, they cost only 20 EU) to a friend of a friend, for which i didnt knew, that he has an expensive Densen setup...
He tested them without my knowledge in comparision with, you wouldnt believe, Nordost Blue heaven and Red dawn, he took from the shop for a try...
He liked Tempoelectrics s on Neutriks more than Nordosts..
I ran some tests on my setup comparing Eichmann Silver Bullets with those ordinary Neutrik RCAs(not PRO), both on TE wires(i tried also some other RCAs on TE wires, but without sucess).
Eichmanns s have slightly more control in bass area and bit more microdetails and depth , but Neutriks are more musical.
They both have excellent stereo and positioning..
On my Tube DAC that amplifier sounded as others tube amps importer bringed there-kind of dull, only the 5881 sounded terrific.
But my DAC uses two ECC88-6922, 6N1P-EV, the same tubes as they are in 5881, and that is the reason, it is very, very compatible with 5881.
After that show, my friends tested other amps from that show in the various very different setups and with Tempoelectric DIY interconnects and speaker cables( we "infested" our forum members with them), they all played very well(considering the price of the amps), if the components of the setup were compatible to them.
I think the best improvement( and not costly) for tube amp is Tempoelectric DIY wiring..
I borrowed Tempolectric interconnects with cheap Neutrik RCAs(finished with RCAs, they cost only 20 EU) to a friend of a friend, for which i didnt knew, that he has an expensive Densen setup...
He tested them without my knowledge in comparision with, you wouldnt believe, Nordost Blue heaven and Red dawn, he took from the shop for a try...
He liked Tempoelectrics s on Neutriks more than Nordosts..
I ran some tests on my setup comparing Eichmann Silver Bullets with those ordinary Neutrik RCAs(not PRO), both on TE wires(i tried also some other RCAs on TE wires, but without sucess).
Eichmanns s have slightly more control in bass area and bit more microdetails and depth , but Neutriks are more musical.
They both have excellent stereo and positioning..
CityPooh said:
Hi,
How was your Mundorf supreme sound ?
For the feedback cap, is it better to use silver mica ?
frurther thots on improvement : -
1. change to volume to dale ladder type.
2. change grid resistor and the feedback resistor to Riken, AudioNote Tantalums or etc.
3. Change the preamp stage coupling cap (connecting to the drives grid) to VCAP TFTF.
4. change the nichicon cap to Blackgate.
Silver oils sounds superbly after a good month of burn in..
Then i also tried Jantzen superiors in 5881.
There is only difference between these two in their sound character, considering depth and microdetails and resolution, they are both leveled.
In crossovers of my speakers i also tested Mundorf Supremes(less depth than SO and JS, bit more roughly sounded) and Jantzen Superiors with Jantzen wax foil coils and Mills and Mundorf Supreme resistors and i put Superiors also in tube DAC.
Then i compared DAC with the similar DAC of my friend eqipped with Mundorfs SO.
All wired with Tempoelectric cables on the signal path and i xovers..
Jantzens are extremly good in revealing depth of the body of instruments, also nicely musical, but SOs are outmost musical.
Mills resistors were big surprise..I liked them more than Mundorf Supreme resistors.
I also borrowed Mundorf foil coils and i dont hear any difference between Jantzen wax coil and Mundorf foil.
I didnt have any time left, to further improve my 5881 and i m very thankfull for all tweaks you guys made and share here..
I had to try some of them after i finish a tweak with very nice unexpensive magnetostat Monacor supertweeters..
I tried them last week and they nicely highlighted highs of 5881, so i ordered a pair of Jantzens 1,5 uF for them.
http://www.bmm-electronics.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=7251
Regards, Jaro
Then i also tried Jantzen superiors in 5881.
There is only difference between these two in their sound character, considering depth and microdetails and resolution, they are both leveled.
In crossovers of my speakers i also tested Mundorf Supremes(less depth than SO and JS, bit more roughly sounded) and Jantzen Superiors with Jantzen wax foil coils and Mills and Mundorf Supreme resistors and i put Superiors also in tube DAC.
Then i compared DAC with the similar DAC of my friend eqipped with Mundorfs SO.
All wired with Tempoelectric cables on the signal path and i xovers..
Jantzens are extremly good in revealing depth of the body of instruments, also nicely musical, but SOs are outmost musical.
Mills resistors were big surprise..I liked them more than Mundorf Supreme resistors.
I also borrowed Mundorf foil coils and i dont hear any difference between Jantzen wax coil and Mundorf foil.
I didnt have any time left, to further improve my 5881 and i m very thankfull for all tweaks you guys made and share here..
I had to try some of them after i finish a tweak with very nice unexpensive magnetostat Monacor supertweeters..
I tried them last week and they nicely highlighted highs of 5881, so i ordered a pair of Jantzens 1,5 uF for them.
http://www.bmm-electronics.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=7251
Regards, Jaro
Last update...
I inspected main ground wires from -(minus) speaker output on amplifiers plate and the copper was almost black, heavilly corroded with copper oxyde!
Also the main ground spot on amplifiers plate has only two tiny holes!
So i gently ripped off some plate coating around those two holes, so i can solder on, with ETI soldering and a plenty of cello strings colofonium(i still prefer colofonium more), a massive speaker spade on the main ground spot of the plate..
Slight noise or buzz, which was present before, lowered..
I changed those rubbish corroded ground wires for Tempoelectric solid core for speakers, and i also changed + wires from amplifiers plate to the speakers output, for the same Tempoelectrics...
TE Wire costs me around 4 EUs.
This improves positioning of musicians on the stage very well.
Also the depth improves slightly
My next step will be changing wires on the low output signal path and selector, for thinnner Tempoelectrics, suitable for interconnects..
They costs around 10EUs.
I inspected main ground wires from -(minus) speaker output on amplifiers plate and the copper was almost black, heavilly corroded with copper oxyde!
Also the main ground spot on amplifiers plate has only two tiny holes!
So i gently ripped off some plate coating around those two holes, so i can solder on, with ETI soldering and a plenty of cello strings colofonium(i still prefer colofonium more), a massive speaker spade on the main ground spot of the plate..
Slight noise or buzz, which was present before, lowered..
I changed those rubbish corroded ground wires for Tempoelectric solid core for speakers, and i also changed + wires from amplifiers plate to the speakers output, for the same Tempoelectrics...
TE Wire costs me around 4 EUs.
This improves positioning of musicians on the stage very well.
Also the depth improves slightly
My next step will be changing wires on the low output signal path and selector, for thinnner Tempoelectrics, suitable for interconnects..
They costs around 10EUs.
where can I find a yaqin 5881a in uk?
Hi guys,
I'm looking for a valve amplifier for 3 months so far, I saw a lot reviews regarding the Yaqin 5881A, it looks fantastic. The only one problem is I can only find them from ebay, and they cost a lot for the postage because they are from HongKong, and the delivery time is too long to wait. I'm wondering if I can find this baby in the UK? Many thanks.
Hi guys,
I'm looking for a valve amplifier for 3 months so far, I saw a lot reviews regarding the Yaqin 5881A, it looks fantastic. The only one problem is I can only find them from ebay, and they cost a lot for the postage because they are from HongKong, and the delivery time is too long to wait. I'm wondering if I can find this baby in the UK? Many thanks.
Hi,
I just bought 6L6GC = 6P3S tubes from ebay to replace the 5881A that is provided with the Yaqin 5881A amplifier.
Now I get a blue cloud at the top of the new output tubes I bought. Is this bad for the tube life?
Drtails: I have ensured that the heater voltage is 6.2 AC volts. And Vb to be 360V. The current is 30 mA per tube (10 W anode) and the tube is changed from ultra-lineair to pseudo triode. The 5881 did not give the blue color.
Any suggestions what I should do, anyone?
albert
I just bought 6L6GC = 6P3S tubes from ebay to replace the 5881A that is provided with the Yaqin 5881A amplifier.
Now I get a blue cloud at the top of the new output tubes I bought. Is this bad for the tube life?
Drtails: I have ensured that the heater voltage is 6.2 AC volts. And Vb to be 360V. The current is 30 mA per tube (10 W anode) and the tube is changed from ultra-lineair to pseudo triode. The 5881 did not give the blue color.
Any suggestions what I should do, anyone?
albert
Attachments
Just listen to some music
Or you may be able to point your finger at the tubes and play with the fluorescent blue glow.
This dark blue glow is normal in some makes of tubes.
SveinB
Thanks for your responses.
Salas, your link is very good to understand the problem. My concerns have gone now!
Interesting is that I have Shuguang 300B tubes too that have blue glass (and I have always suspected the manufacturer to make it blue to avoid seeing such a glow!).
SveinB, the tubes sound like a marvel. Details, crispness, low stage sound.
They measure very well on my test bench too. I had them in my tubetester, all four I bought have the same transconductance like 2100-2150.
All four had this out of the box, so it seems normal for the make.
I had this also on 6550 tubes in the past in another amplifier, and reduced the anode current (fixed bias) until the colour disappeared; but in this amplifier I have auto bias, hard to play around with.
zbodeoc, yes, I saw them too but also needed 6N1P-EB tubes that the seller of the 6P3C-E didn't have.
albert
Salas, your link is very good to understand the problem. My concerns have gone now!
Interesting is that I have Shuguang 300B tubes too that have blue glass (and I have always suspected the manufacturer to make it blue to avoid seeing such a glow!).
SveinB, the tubes sound like a marvel. Details, crispness, low stage sound.
They measure very well on my test bench too. I had them in my tubetester, all four I bought have the same transconductance like 2100-2150.
All four had this out of the box, so it seems normal for the make.
I had this also on 6550 tubes in the past in another amplifier, and reduced the anode current (fixed bias) until the colour disappeared; but in this amplifier I have auto bias, hard to play around with.
zbodeoc, yes, I saw them too but also needed 6N1P-EB tubes that the seller of the 6P3C-E didn't have.
albert
Hi, Al.
Same happened to me when i changed factory MKP caps for Jantzen Superiors and after some time that nice blue glow dissapears.
Troelsgravesen opinion about caps shows that Superiors are real jam and they are not very expensive, i also use other cap he prefers, russian K42-2 or mixture of both.
K42 after a month of burning in, could be Mundorf SIO killers!
The Grounded Grid preamplifier
My friend told me, there are some amps made to have blue glow and that should be no problem for lifetime expectations of tubes.
Blue Glow in Tubes, Tube Getters, and other Tube Info
Mine is now running on KT77 Genalex Gold Lion.
Signal tubes are JJ E88cc and Vostok 6N1P-EV from 70 ies.(dont buy non "EV" Vostoks!)
KT77 is european invented hybrid tube and it "acts" in 5881 like this is an some kind of bastard between EL34 and 6L6 amp.
Lot more hapenning now in upper mids and highs, bass control remains the same as 6L6.
Almost transistorlike speed and openess.
On signal path i tried 6N6P-ECC99.
Strange, big signal tube for microphones, adviced on Lampizator site..
At first i bought, matched, newer ones, OTK(OTK means the same like EV), Nevz plant, but in that case, ordinary Reflektor from 70ies with no OTK stamp are the real thing.
5881 with 6N6P became sounding like triode amp, much more "civilised" and quieter too.
6N6P are now in my tube DAC, so there is no need to have them in 5881.
So. With that wonderfull and cheap tube is no need to convert 5881 in triode and with Genalex KT77 you get the best from EL34 and 6L6.
It looks to me that you are fortunate enough to have another visual effect added to the initial one, "magic eyes"...
I've tried 6P3C-E (military grade and shorter than 6P3C) and worked like a charm with no blue effect.
I have longer version of those and it is very nice tube.
Could be "softened"(i assume that your russian PIOs caps in 5881 sotfens sound enough without that) with Tesla E88CC and 6N6P Reflektor combo, but the real stuff is 6N1P-EV Voshod-6N6P combo.
And yes. 5881 "likes" a lot JJ E88CC in some combos of signal tubes.
Do you maybe know if there is a particullary reason, why russian fellows are selling shorter version of 6P3C for more money than longer one?
Are they better in some ways?
Shorter?
Google: rezultat iskanja slik za http://tubes-store.com/images/6p3s_e_02.jpg
Longer?
Google: rezultat iskanja slik za http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/d/10692-1/Russian+Reflector+6p3c-e+Hytron+6L6GB+Label+2+-+USSR.jpg
Last edited:
I read quite some time ago, that there was once an Yaquin importer in UK.
There is one in France.
Yaqin France
Marc is really a nice guy, very friendly and helpful, and he has two years guarantee on Yaqin products.
There is some, for my personal taste, bit sluggish guy in Slovenija importing them directly from the factory in China -named Tonewin.
Tonewin Electronics Co.,Limited
Maybe the best option is to ask Tonewin sales dept for the price fcco UK and if that is an option, it could the least expensive one.