Multisegment capacitor replacement help.

Frazzled · 18th February 2007, 03:08 PM

I am restoring an old (1946) Gibson BR-4 amplifier and it has a multisegment capacitor 40-10-10 450v that I am trying to find a replacement for.

Ideally I would like to find a new version that would fit into the carcass of the old capacitor to keep the vintage look. I tested the old capacitor on my Sencore LC77 and to my dismay it was not salvagable but then I didn't really expect it would be.

I managed to remove the lid of the old capacitor and take out the components so I now have an empty shell that measures 3 1/4 inches tall by 1 1/8 inch diameter.

Any suggestions or thoughts?

Thanks for the help.

Don

DUG · 18th February 2007, 07:53 PM

At DigiKey, there are 10uF/450V ECA, EEU, EKM, EKX, VR, and VZ series of caps at 12.5mm dia and 20mm L.

there are 22uF/450V ECA, EEU, EKM, EKX, VR, and VZ series of caps at 16mm dia and 25mm L.

If you are putting them in the case without ventilation, select long life high temperature types. (if I had a choice I would do that anyway)

Frazzled · 18th February 2007, 08:35 PM

Agreed... I had hoped to find a mutlisegment cap to fit into the old case but that doesn't seem to be feasible so I have decided to put a 47uf and two 10uf caps inside soldering the negative leads together.

Should work fine.

Trout · 19th February 2007, 01:42 AM

AES has a can cap, 40-20-20/500V Twist tab can cap.

part number C-EC40-20-20

I would think that would be a good sub.

Their website is http://www.tubesandmore.com/

Trout

SY · 19th February 2007, 01:52 AM

If possible, bring out the negative leads separately so you can optimize the grounding. Putting them in common places ripple current-induced noise on all of the decoupling sections.

gingertube · 19th February 2007, 02:10 AM

I restoring vintage equipment there is often room under the chassis for new individual caps. Leave the existing cap in place to conserve the "look". Use existing mounting bolts to fit a few tag strips (or drill new hole(s) if required) and just redirect the wiring from the old multisegment cap to new caps on those tag strips.

Cheers,
Ian

crispycircuit · 19th February 2007, 02:33 AM

If it's a twist lock cap? Buy a new one at Antique Electronics and put the black paper cover on it...... I can't tell if it's a twist lock. If not the same place has the paper tube electros also.....

18th February 2007, 03:08 PM	#1
Frazzled diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Regina, Saskatchewan	Multisegment capacitor replacement help. I am restoring an old (1946) Gibson BR-4 amplifier and it has a multisegment capacitor 40-10-10 450v that I am trying to find a replacement for. Ideally I would like to find a new version that would fit into the carcass of the old capacitor to keep the vintage look. I tested the old capacitor on my Sencore LC77 and to my dismay it was not salvagable but then I didn't really expect it would be. I managed to remove the lid of the old capacitor and take out the components so I now have an empty shell that measures 3 1/4 inches tall by 1 1/8 inch diameter. Any suggestions or thoughts? Thanks for the help. Don __________________ Anything worth trying is worth failing at once or twice.

18th February 2007, 07:53 PM	#2
DUG diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: mississauga ontario canada	At DigiKey, there are 10uF/450V ECA, EEU, EKM, EKX, VR, and VZ series of caps at 12.5mm dia and 20mm L. there are 22uF/450V ECA, EEU, EKM, EKX, VR, and VZ series of caps at 16mm dia and 25mm L. If you are putting them in the case without ventilation, select long life high temperature types. (if I had a choice I would do that anyway) __________________ Doug We are all learning...we can all help

18th February 2007, 08:35 PM	#3
Frazzled diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Regina, Saskatchewan	Agreed... I had hoped to find a mutlisegment cap to fit into the old case but that doesn't seem to be feasible so I have decided to put a 47uf and two 10uf caps inside soldering the negative leads together. Should work fine. __________________ Anything worth trying is worth failing at once or twice.

19th February 2007, 01:52 AM	#5
SY diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Chicagoland Blog Entries: 1	If possible, bring out the negative leads separately so you can optimize the grounding. Putting them in common places ripple current-induced noise on all of the decoupling sections. __________________ If there's a sucker born every minute, where do the rest of them come from?

19th February 2007, 02:33 AM	#7
crispycircuit diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Near Buffalo NY USA	If it's a twist lock cap? Buy a new one at Antique Electronics and put the black paper cover on it...... I can't tell if it's a twist lock. If not the same place has the paper tube electros also..... __________________ The stuff you don't know always humbles us.........


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19th February 2007, 01:42 AM	#4
Trout diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Midwest Madman	AES has a can cap, 40-20-20/500V Twist tab can cap. part number C-EC40-20-20 I would think that would be a good sub. Their website is http://www.tubesandmore.com/ Trout

19th February 2007, 02:10 AM	#6
gingertube diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Adelaide South Oz	I restoring vintage equipment there is often room under the chassis for new individual caps. Leave the existing cap in place to conserve the "look". Use existing mounting bolts to fit a few tag strips (or drill new hole(s) if required) and just redirect the wiring from the old multisegment cap to new caps on those tag strips. Cheers, Ian

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