Making a hole for AC socket in a chassis

[rcavictim]

Originally posted by DSP_Geek
I don't like IEC connectors much, partly because of the hole issue and partly because they're not very good at high currents. I've had power cords get rather warm under load.

Francois.

This may be because they have been plated with the same non-conductive metal that is used to make cheap digital multi-meter probes.

[Pit Hinder]

Dang, I nearly forgot this possibility: a good doctor knows when to call a surgeon.

http://www.schaeffer-ag.de/index.php...age&Itemid=205

You can get a fu king lot of front/rear plates made for $500...with your name engraved of course Service and quality are 1A.

Cheers Pit

[nhuwar]

There usally plated with nickel and it is conductive.

A common plating metal in high quality connector is gold and contrary to popular belief gold is a bad conductor of electricity.

That is why the plating on connector usually aren't for conductivity they are for corrosion resistance only!

Most surface oxide of common good conductors ARE NOT good conductor except silver is the only on that has a reasonable good conducting oxide.
So that is why nickel or gold is used on connector fro crossion resistance not conductivity.
These metals are also malleably which keeps it in good shape after many make and breaks of the connection.

Also a very thin layer of a less conductive metal on a highly conductive metal will not pose high resistance becausr these layer are only a few mill's thick ie .001 to .01 inchs

If you are worried about conductivity you should use only silver but this will only be useful at frequincy's above 2khz.

So having a nickel layer over contacts on connectors wont create noticably heating from resistance unless they are overloaded.

Nick

[frank754]

I really appreciate the info on the nibbling tool, I've used one for ceramic tiles, but didn't know there was one for thin metal. That's the next item on my list. I've had to file to get some neat square holes, and that seems to mess of the nerves on my thumb, felt numb for a few days.
Another thing I use, besides Greenlee punches (and sometimes Harbor Freight has a cheap crude punch set too for about $10 which I use as a lat resort if I need the size),
is a step drill, I got a set of 3 for $50 at Lowes, they drill aluminum really well one step at a time, and are great, even with a cordless drill, for pilot light holes, fuse sockets, even 7 & 9 pin tube sockets, but won't do a full inch hole, just 7/8". The ones I have are Erwin, but Greenles still makes these are they're in the electrician specialty tool aisle of lowes, which also has some reasonably priced well-made toggle switches, heat-shrink tubing, some multitesters, etc

[nhuwar]

They also carry klein tools the good stuff.

[Eusebius]

Since there's a flange on the unit, it covers up slight discrepancies from the optimum size. for that reason I make two drill holles, side by side, and then use a hole saw to cut two circles, one overlapping the other. To make the corners, finish off with a square file. Quick way to do it. I have a cheap and generic drill press, which I use a lot.

[jarthel]

Originally posted by engels

What's your method?
I was looking if there's some sort of a punch for this hole - but haven't found it.
HEEELP!!!!

I draw a square on the chassis and just use a drill to create holes along the square. I then use a "cutter?" to snip it. then file.

[AR2]

Originally posted by nhuwar
but if you still want the small one then

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47158

Nick

I wanted to show something that will do job in question. If one is thinking on investing in mill, and performing various jobs than certainly do not go for the smallest one. For little more more - something like $ 800-1000 there are really good ones available on ebay. If you are planning to do a lot, there are big ones in the range of $ 1500 - 2000 even some Bridgeports. It just depends on space requirement and how deep you would like to go into. I love it, started from scratch and learning every day.

[nhuwar]

Ar2 yes I know all about them Iam a machinist but you have to relize a normal mill weight around 500 to 1000 puonds not something your average hobbist can pickup and move thats why I put that one up here. It fine for working on small things and it doesn't take up half your garage.

Nick

[AR2]

Originally posted by nhuwar
Ar2 yes I know all about them Iam a machinist but you have to relize a normal mill weight around 500 to 1000 puonds not something your average hobbist can pickup and move thats why I put that one up here. It fine for working on small things and it doesn't take up half your garage.

Nick

Agreed. This is what I am using

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G1007

which is nice compromise between small and big machine. Yet there are situation when I really would like to have knee mill.