After creating several different amplifiers from scratch I came to conclusion what's the most complicated part in the whole process.
It's making a hole for the AC socket in a chassis.
I'm talking about this little thing -
Drilling a pilot hole, than insaine noise with the jackson saw, then a file... It's a terribly noisy and time consuming thing to do.
What's your method?
I was looking if there's some sort of a punch for this hole - but haven't found it.
HEEELP!!!!
It's making a hole for the AC socket in a chassis.
I'm talking about this little thing -
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Drilling a pilot hole, than insaine noise with the jackson saw, then a file... It's a terribly noisy and time consuming thing to do.
What's your method?
I was looking if there's some sort of a punch for this hole - but haven't found it.
HEEELP!!!!
Before using Front Panel Express and being stuck with my primitive tools - I used a 'Cord Strain Relief'... basically you drill a hole, attach the strain relief, thread in the cable, and then tighten the strain relief.
for an example, see page 21 of the Michael Percy catalog - I always have a hard time tracking these down via Digikey, etc
for an example, see page 21 of the Michael Percy catalog - I always have a hard time tracking these down via Digikey, etc
How you make that hole depends on how thick the chassis is. For most Hammond chassis you can use a tool called a 'nibbler'. A nibbler has a fixed handle and a moveable handle, and you hold it vertically. At the top is a square head with a cutter which cuts rectangular holes.
Basically you drill a pilot hole of 1/4" and insert the head of the nibbler through the hole. With each pull of the handle it 'nibbles' away a flat section of metal. Square holes are easy that way. I drill the pilot hole near the edge of the desired hole and nibble around the outside to create any size rectangular hole.
Basically you drill a pilot hole of 1/4" and insert the head of the nibbler through the hole. With each pull of the handle it 'nibbles' away a flat section of metal. Square holes are easy that way. I drill the pilot hole near the edge of the desired hole and nibble around the outside to create any size rectangular hole.
I use a Dremel tool with a small cotoff wheel. It is noisy, and makes a mess, but I can usually make the hole in about 10 minutes.
I am using a socket that also has the fuse in it. It means one less hole to make. I made the hole below with a Dremel in about 10 minutes, and the material is .125 inch aluminum. The hole is not pretty by itself, but is completely covered by the socket.
I am using a socket that also has the fuse in it. It means one less hole to make. I made the hole below with a Dremel in about 10 minutes, and the material is .125 inch aluminum. The hole is not pretty by itself, but is completely covered by the socket.
Attachments
I generally drill a pilot hole and then use a nibbling tool to make the final hole, if you are just a little patient (i'm not really) you can get a near perfect square hole using this technique. (I usually don't take that much care - I figure it will be all hidden by the iec socket if I am not too careless.)
George also has a very good approach, I usually use my dremel to make larger square holes, but never considered using it for this. Definitely easier than the above, but it might require slightly better fine motor skills (hand/eye coordination) than the nibbler approach.
The nibbler is only good in most instances with aluminum up to .062" (mine won't handle anything thicker) anything thicker than this and the dremel is definitely the way to go.
I use punches pretty much for anything round larger than 1/2."
George also has a very good approach, I usually use my dremel to make larger square holes, but never considered using it for this. Definitely easier than the above, but it might require slightly better fine motor skills (hand/eye coordination) than the nibbler approach.
The nibbler is only good in most instances with aluminum up to .062" (mine won't handle anything thicker) anything thicker than this and the dremel is definitely the way to go.
I use punches pretty much for anything round larger than 1/2."
tankz
Nibbler looks interesting - thanks, I'll give it a try!
The other methods are equally noisy and ugly to what I usually do - 1=pilot hole, 2=jigsaw, 3=file.
Hardwiring the transformer IMHO is no good. Most of the devices I build are often being carried to all sorts of concerts, performances and studios. If it was a home stereo I would use a strain relief.
I wonder why there's no greenlee punch for this type of hole. Should I write them a letter and copyright it?
Nibbler looks interesting - thanks, I'll give it a try!
The other methods are equally noisy and ugly to what I usually do - 1=pilot hole, 2=jigsaw, 3=file.
Hardwiring the transformer IMHO is no good. Most of the devices I build are often being carried to all sorts of concerts, performances and studios. If it was a home stereo I would use a strain relief.
I wonder why there's no greenlee punch for this type of hole. Should I write them a letter and copyright it?
There are punches for these connectors, they are hideously expensive and require a special tool. (often a small hydraulic punch tool) I am pretty sure that Greenlee makes one, and several other vendors definitely do. I briefly considered buying one, but the tool and the die would have cost me over $300 at the time which I considered just a little too rich for my blood.
You can find greenlee punch's cheap on ebay and for our aplacation which is not thick metal you don't need hydraulic ones. You won't need a hydraulic punch unless you are going through metal over an 1\8 of an inch and it's steel. If it's aluminum you should be able to use a manual one up to 1\4 of a inch you will need it to be securley clamped the a heavy work bench but it's doable. If you are working with copper it's even easier.
The important thing is GREASE THE DIE AND SCREW!!!!!!
It make life much easier and prolongs tool life. The other tool that I would use is a wire saw they have a ver high tooth pitch and will take abit longer but you have the utmost control and it leaves a very clean edge.
If you have access to a mill and know basic machinig you could make a punch for use on soft metal like low alloy aluminum say no higher then series 3000 maybe 4000 with no t suffix or electrolytic though pitch copper. To make one for steel would require use of higher grade steel or case hardening the cutting surface.
I have used dremel tools in the past but have found that at required speeds to cut the metal the tool kicks alot and give subpar results but the drilling of many releif holes and cutting through each hole which cleans up the whole cutout.
There are many diffrent ways to do this but unfortunatly the best and cleanest way is the use of punches with copious amounts of lubrication.
Nick
The important thing is GREASE THE DIE AND SCREW!!!!!!
It make life much easier and prolongs tool life. The other tool that I would use is a wire saw they have a ver high tooth pitch and will take abit longer but you have the utmost control and it leaves a very clean edge.
If you have access to a mill and know basic machinig you could make a punch for use on soft metal like low alloy aluminum say no higher then series 3000 maybe 4000 with no t suffix or electrolytic though pitch copper. To make one for steel would require use of higher grade steel or case hardening the cutting surface.
I have used dremel tools in the past but have found that at required speeds to cut the metal the tool kicks alot and give subpar results but the drilling of many releif holes and cutting through each hole which cleans up the whole cutout.
There are many diffrent ways to do this but unfortunatly the best and cleanest way is the use of punches with copious amounts of lubrication.
Nick
When you calculate the price for various punches and other workarounds, it makes much more sense investing in small mill drill / machine. You could find them for as low as $ 400-500.00 and they will do much more than just this type of holes besides being drill press.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G8689
This one is $ 525.00 brand new one. I would go for something bigger but, used one if this is your budget.
With this stuff you spend much more on tooling than on machine itself, but for what you are trying to do it will take only wise or clamping system and end mill. Once you discover what is possible...
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G8689
This one is $ 525.00 brand new one. I would go for something bigger but, used one if this is your budget.
With this stuff you spend much more on tooling than on machine itself, but for what you are trying to do it will take only wise or clamping system and end mill. Once you discover what is possible...
Ya $525 but that doesn't include shipping probably a bit more
But if you really want to spend the money on shipping and get your money's worth I suggest this
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?CategoryID=264&pricetype=
But shipping is still going to be bad but with this mill you could do anything and holt tolerence with that other one it wouldn't be sturdy because it's to light.
Nick
But if you really want to spend the money on shipping and get your money's worth I suggest this
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?CategoryID=264&pricetype=
But shipping is still going to be bad but with this mill you could do anything and holt tolerence with that other one it wouldn't be sturdy because it's to light.
Nick
but if you still want the small one then
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47158
Nick
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47158
Nick
I don't like IEC connectors much, partly because of the hole issue and partly because they're not very good at high currents. I've had power cords get rather warm under load.
I prefer something like a 20 amp twistlock. The hole is huge - on the order of 2 inches/5 cm - but the damn thing is round and it'll handle all the current you can throw at it. Just make sure the power cable respects Hot/Neutral/Ground conventions.
Francois.
I prefer something like a 20 amp twistlock. The hole is huge - on the order of 2 inches/5 cm - but the damn thing is round and it'll handle all the current you can throw at it. Just make sure the power cable respects Hot/Neutral/Ground conventions.
Francois.
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