Tube Tester Resto Basics

[Steven-H]

All,
I just scored a REAL clean Sylvania 219 tube tester that I will be picking up this evening. How are these beasties put together ? In other words, is it safe to assume that they need a recap, etc before it can be plugged in and used ? Also, anyone happen to have a PDF of the user's manual ?

Thanks a bunch,
Steve

[kevinkr]

Here is a link to the manual for the 219 and 220 series testers.

ftp://bama.sbc.edu/downloads/sylvania/220/220.pdf

It contains everything you need to know about this tester.

Copies of the charts as well as a modification for testing 0Z4A are here:

ftp://bama.sbc.edu/downloads/sylvania/220/

[Steven-H]

Thanks ! And now:




I cleaned up the chassis abit; it didn't turn out too bad (the pic is pre-cleaning...). As you can see, when I tested my 83 tube, only one of the sides ignited. Both side's filaments were on; but I guess the tester only draws from one pin (as would for a non-rectifier tube), and not both. Safe assumption ?

Regards,
Steve

[EC8010]

Originally posted by Steven-H
As you can see, when I tested my 83 tube, only one of the sides ignited. Both side's filaments were on; but I guess the tester only draws from one pin (as would for a non-rectifier tube), and not both.

You are now into the world of discovering that valve tester code books are riddled with errors. The AVO code books were notorious for this although the 23rd edition is said to be the reasonably error-free.

I get valve data sheets from Frank's site, then work out my own connection codes...

[kevinkr]

You probably did only half the test.. LOL You will note that there is probably another setting for the other half of the tube. (Any dual whether rectifier, triode or triode/pentode will have two sets of settings.)

Not a bad tester IMO.. Note though that it will be meaningless to compare results with a traditional transconductance type tester (diodes excluded obviously) because the Sylvania measures a combination of emission and transconductance as noted in the manual.


Be gentle when scrolling through the tube charts as the paper gets fragile in its old age. (I have a Hickok with its original chart - still going fine after many years.)

The Hickok charts, and IIRC Sylvania charts are pretty error free. I've never found one in a Hickok chart. Omissions, yes, errors no..

Should be a very useful tester, and looks to be in excellent condition.. Good find!

Edit for clarity, typos, added a comment or two..

[Steven-H]

Hrmmm....Yup, you are correct. 'G' selector is the one that changes the output pin...

Thanks !

[kevinkr]

I had posted a reply suggesting that you look up the plate pins and swap one for the other, but I now see an admission of operator error.. So I deleted the other reply and substituted this one..

[Steven-H]

HAHA, ya. My first reply was "holy *&*&, Im an ^%#....But I toned it down a bit.....

Thanks Man !

[kevinkr]

Enjoy your new tube tester..
No well equipped home lab should be without one. When I need it I find my Hickok 539B indispensable.. I grade and mark all new tube acquisitions - makes it easier to find matches at critical moments.. LOL

[frank754]

I have a Sylvania 620 tube tester (1956 model), with all the docs (schematic, updated listings etc.)
I'm just getting back into this hobby, and I've had this unit for probably 15-20 years, it seems to work fine, however when testing power tubes like the 6V6GT, when doing the final "tube test", the needle does not go out of the red area. I tried this with over 10 tubes, including two brand-new JJ's, so it's not the tubes. I read somewhere on the net that you shouldn't go by what the tester says, just plug in the tubes and see how they sound.
What causes this though, in others' experience do you get results like this as well? Triodes and pre-amp tubes test just fine, go all the way into the green, generally.