Some sneek peeks

[Steven-H]

I don't want to give tooo much away...







Im sure all of you recognize the board, and most likely the tube shot from above. I do have confidence that you can then put two and two together for the tube shot from below

Hopefully it won't burst into flames and ruin my beautiful wood....

Regards,
Steve

[Curly Woods]

That is some pretty curly Cherry

[Steven-H]

Mr. Mastin,
You sir would know I have looked at your website many times; but I had no idea I would bump into you here !
What is your honest suggestion about finishes ? I know that figured woods are a total PIA to plane (I went about it the safe way with a sander...), but there are 1 billion ways for finishing cherry - most with mixed results. I don't want to stain it - so Im tossed between using a 'true' tung oil, a 'new' (mixed with varnishes) tung oil, or shillac.
Any thoughts ?

Thanks a million,
Steve

[ArtG]

Steve,
Yeh, I know what you are doing! You are doing exactly what I want to do! But I can't right now, as I'm using the original separate board layout, which makes it very difficult! But, I'll find a way!:-) I'll very, very interested with your thoughts when it's completed. Mine will be a couple months before it's done, since I'm working on a bunch of other changes in some other areas. Perhaps we can share some observations, or even possibly get together for some comparisons, since you aren't far away. However, it looks like yours will be a work of art when you are done, while what I'm working on, will look more like a nuclear reactor!

Meanwhile, if you are serious about beautiful wood finishing, I'd recommend " Understanding Wood Finishing" by Bob Flexner. I've had some experience in this area, but I've probably read this cover to cover three times, and learned more each time. It has numerous color examples of stains and staining techniques, and it's great! I never really understood staining and tinting and toning, until I read it. If you can't find it anywhere else, it's available from Rockler for about $20.

[Steven-H]

Art,
Thanks for the help. I'll shoot you an email later on with some details, and perhaps you would be kind enough to give me your input ?

Regards,
Steve

[Curly Woods]

Originally posted by Steven-H
Mr. Mastin,
You sir would know I have looked at your website many times; but I had no idea I would bump into you here !
What is your honest suggestion about finishes ? I know that figured woods are a total PIA to plane (I went about it the safe way with a sander...), but there are 1 billion ways for finishing cherry - most with mixed results. I don't want to stain it - so Im tossed between using a 'true' tung oil, a 'new' (mixed with varnishes) tung oil, or shillac.
Any thoughts ?

Thanks a million,
Steve

My first choice for wood of this caliber is a simple hand-rubbed lacquer finish. 2nd choice would be to oil it, then allow this to fully dry (normally about 3 to 4 days) and then spray with lacquer and rub it out. This will darken the wood and make the figure "pop", but age will do this and I like a natural look myself. If you have some scraps, try it both ways and then decide which meets your desires. Shellac is a great finish if you feel comfortable with it. It has the added benefit of "popping" the figure without using oils.

I am an old audiophile that loves figured hardwoods

[Steven-H]

Mr. Mastin,
Thanks again. I've never used fresh shellac - I do have lots of experience in automotive painting. It seems somewhat similar (building layers), so I might give it a shot. I think the amber/blonde would be what I am looking for, as it seems to give the most natural look.
One interesting note that I saw was that it was recommended to do 3 layers or so of shellac, THEN assemble. I suppose the reason is so that the glue wouldn't bleed into the face of the wood and possibly taint the finish ? Doesn't seem like too bad of an idea...

Thanks again,
Steve