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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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I just built a 2 tube 3.5 watt amp using the project info at Fred Nachbauers page, the Miniblock II
http://www.dogstar.dantimax.dk/tubestuf/mnibl2-1.htm Mine came out like this, and I got it to work without too much excessive fuss, but since I'm not a pro it took a little time (2 days): This circuit uses 24 volt bell transformers, diodes for the power supply, and a diode volatge doubler as well for the HV, as well as a diode bias circuit which comes from the filament supply. The amp is excellent, low hum, nice clean sound. Running the output of a computer into it, or a tiny transistor radio's earphone jack into it and then its output into a big speaker, you'd feel you have a full blown stereo. Nice glassy bell-clear tube sound too. My problem is that a mic or guitar isn't powerful enough to really drive it, you get some sound but not pronounced. According to the specs of this amp, you need 1/2 volt of input to really take advantage of it. I did some searching here & there, didn't find "it" yet, but what I'm looking for exactly is a 1 tube pre-amp, that can do from a mic to maybe close to 1/2 volt, and hopefully have some of the "easy" perks that this amp has, since I'm on a budget. A "One tube pre-amp" easy to build like this: No tranformer needed, can get the filament power from 120AC using a big voltage drop resistor. The power supply can be made using diodes (like 1N4007's) and the high voltage using a voltage doubler diode circuit like the above project had. Triode or pentode based, all I need is 1/2 volt output (for mic, guitar or turntable to be able to drive the second amp) Perhaps using a common old radio tube: 50C5 12AV6 12BA6 (or even a 12AX7 since that seems to be super popular in many audio circuits. Has anyone seen a project/scematic like this. I'm sure it's a shoe-in type of design if anyone gave though to it, but I'm not an engineer. Thanks in advance if you have a link or idea on this... |
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Quote:
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Diego
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Quote:
Sheldon |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Diego
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Quote:
Sheldon |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chicago area
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Isolation transformers can be had for ten or twelve bucks. Others might not agree
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--Sherman |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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OK, I'm game on the transformer for the filament, as I can get
a 12 v transformer at Radio Shack (I think), and that's OK. BTW, a ramshackle voltage drop filament scheme can be had perhaps by putting a night light bulb in series with the tube filament? My power here is 125v not 117, so maybe it would be enough for a 6.3? Just a thought. What I have a problem with is that all the sophisticated parts I have to order on the net, and it takes a week to get them, plus huge shipping. It's a shame that Radio Shack doesn't have more stuff anymore, like they have no electrolytic caps in the tube voltage range. I did read the huge 50 page thread about the 12B4 circuit, is this one that's highly recommended? It's confusing, they revise the schematic about 3-4 times, etc. OK, so I use the final more accepted schematic from fdegrove: Mic jack, 100k pot to ground, center lug to 100 ohm resistor into grid. 470 Ohms 2w resistor from cathode to ground 100 ohms in series with a 3.3 uF/450v from plate to output jack, with 100k resistor to ground at that jack. One guy says that it runs fine, and he puts 255v 25ma onto the plate. PLEASE inform me if there is a better set of values up to this point. What I propose to do for the plate voltage, is hack it together from the AC using diodes, similar to the Miniblock project, doubling my line current: create a voltage doubler circuit using two 1n4007's and two 470uF 200v caps (each for just 1/2 the phase), then run that for the B+ without regulation, should that be ok for starters? See the power supply on the amp I built, but for this I would make the B+ from the line, making sure the chassis & line were grounded properly and the chassis was grounded, and not use the 125-->24-->125 xfmrs, just the line AC with diodes for the B+ Should this work? ![]() Not trying to be a real cheapo, but the semantics would be great if in fact a HV xfmr is not used in the equation. A lot of old radios were powered the same way, plus with filaments in series. |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Quote:
__________________
Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Brisvegas
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Quote:
The findings obviously require corroboration, but apparently negative correlations have been found between natural background radiation levels and rates of cancer. pm
__________________
Au rutti wop-bop-a-loom-bop-a-boom-bam-boom - Richard Penniman |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Maybe I'm clueless here, but I've been a Ham plus electrician off & on for over 30 years. (I'm 52, and my dad was an engineer for DuMont TV). Built a SW receiver in 1970 from just a schematic.
If there's some kind of radiation, it's in the AC in the house and surrounds us. I'm sort of envronmental too, but it's just me, my wife and our cats, and we all need discipline from time to time.. If, by not using an isolation xfmr, making sure the plug & polarity of the chassis is grounded, and if not, by someone bypassing it, causes it to blow the fuse on the unit, I don't see the problem here. Safety can be built in. I see more ops for a mishap with 400-800 volts on a high Mfd capacitor, even with the unit unplugged for any random amount of time. My question was about AC powered HV supplies without an xfmr, has anyone here done this to some extent, especially where you can use a diode/high uFd circuit to provide filtered DC, and use a voltage doubler circuit as I mentoned above (in the pic link too but without the xfmrs), doubling the AC provides 250+ volts filtered DC maybe not prime for a "driven to the max" HV scenario. but enough for something like a pre-amp where you need only to get something decent going to provided a gain & a good feed, not even nearly max anything out. So I was just hoping someone could confirm the 12B4 circuit was fairly well tweaked and good-to-go in the version that I mentioned, and that perhaps I could do the 1 tube preamp with this and the power setup I proposed. Also still taking suggestions on 1 tube preamps using the other tubes I mentioned 50C5 12AV6 12BA6 (or even a 12AX7) but hopefully a cheap plentiful tube that has a lot of NOS stock. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Jakarta
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Firstly, I agree with the others who point out the danger of not using an isolation transformer. I'm sure you can understand that it would be irresponsible for this forum to take any other stance.
Secondly, for your preamp purposes you could consider using a 6AU6/EF94 pentode, which was commonly used in microphone preamps by some well-known companies. It is widely available and cheap to buy. You might need to acquire a few examples, in order to find one that is not too microphonic or noisy. |
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