Developing a "universal" tube power supply PCB
 

Hi all,

We've seen lots of great projects here where we've developed PCB's and did a group buy. So, I'm working on a simple (non-regulated) HV supply PCB for our projects and would like input. Maybe do a GB?

I have a couple of prototypes made and they are pretty sweet!

Here are some pics:
Component side w/socket
Component side, sans socket
Solder side

And the W.I.P. documentation for this:
docs_in_progress.pdf

What do you think so far?

Cheers!

Is there ever a standard PSU? If you make the assumption that you use a single octal rectifier and electrolytics, then what about all those that use motor runs, twin damper diodes and noval sockets for EZ80/81? We haven't even started on glow tubes.

Looks like a good idea to me.:cool:

Good idea! Is it snap-in size caps you have designed for? Can you also add voltage doubler input?

cheers

What geek has will allow for different situations. Granted not everything someone could dream up power supply wise. Your motor run capacitors could be fed off the board and mounted near the board by using feed wires. Glow tubes could be fed from the power supply board also.

The design has merit.

I would add an additional mounting hole at the center - this would give better support to the rectifier socket. You might also want to add 2W bleeders.

For a voltage doubler, it's the same as the split supply if you're using series pairs of caps - just hook the transformer to AC and ground. By the way, I have a pretty much unlimited supply of 270/315V and 470/250V snap-ins... from nearly new scrap boards where I work.

Why would you want to use a PCB with tubes?
 

After many tube insertion-pulls you're gona weaken the traces. You're also gona manufacture a swell capacitor around some of the grid leads. I vote for hand wiring in spades like the Tektronix scopes of the late 60s! For solid state it's great!:att'n:

Re: Why would you want to use a PCB with tubes?
 

Not if you do it right. I use daughter boards on tube sockets, but the trick is to use the socket itself for mounting. Thus, there is no stress on the board. Here's one installed.

And here are a bunch of other daughter boards for the same amp for trying different tubes, different operating points, different topologies, etc.

And, here's a little PS in the same spirit as the thread starter's. All of the parts can be mounted on the bottom as well to allow for the same style of chassis mounting. I also have an octal version. I tend to use one of these as a starter, with some higher quality caps or a regulator after. But, it is great for breadboarding.