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| Tubes / Valves All about our sweet vacuum tubes :) Threads about Musical Instrument Amps of all kinds should be in the Instruments & Amps forum |
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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sweden (Mora)
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A while ago I promised my brother to help him build a tube amp.
Since we were on a budget, we decided to use those 18 bucks Edcor OPTīs and a pair of 807īs. After a few detours I finally got a prototype running yesterday, but to my disappointment it didnīt sound as good as I had expected. The output tubes were running in UL mode with CFB from the OPT secondary, and obviously this wasnīt enough to get the output impedance low enough. Since my brothers speakers are quite insensitive triode connection was never an option and I didnīt want to surrender to global NFB, I came up with the (seemingly) great idea to connect the input tubes plate resistors to the UL taps rather than to B+. I believe this is called E-linear. Iīve read that this topology works best with high impedance driver stages, so I removed the cathode bypass caps for the input stage. The bass response immediately got much better, not "floppy" as it was before. This drawing shows how the amp is wired today: Any obvious mistakes here? The amp sounds really good, but I havenīt done any measuerements yet. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
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Hey-Hey!!!,
Looks good to me. I prefer pentodes for the input stage...actually cascodes but your ears are the final arbiter on that one. The pentode plate returns more NFB as it doesn't really care what the voltage is( like a triode ). It is indeed called E-Linear. That circuit is different enough to deserve its own name. cheers, Douglas
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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Is this topology specifically made for plate loaded input tubes?
What if I have a CCS on the input tube plate? Will that make a difference? |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Diego
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If you're in to mode of experimentation, here's another partial feedback approach you might want to look at: http://www.tubeaudio.8m.com/807/807.html
If you search under RH807, you'll find some examples. Sheldon |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sweden (Mora)
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What Iīve come up with here seems to be a mix between Pete Milletts E-linear amp and Alexīs RH807.
Cost and simplicity has high priority, thatīs why I use a dual triode on the input. (Well, actually itīs because I didnīt plan to use this kind of feedback from the beginning). Can I expect huge improvements by changing to pentodes (6AU6 or something)? Iīm going to run some measurements on the prototype tonight, Iīm not sure that my driver stage is capable of pushing the output tubes to full power. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I think if you decouple the 10 ohms cathode resistor you double the output power. Jan Didden
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sweden (Mora)
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The 10 ohm resistor is only there to measure the voltage drop (bias current) across, it shouldnīt affect the output power...?
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
The 10 ohms doesn't know this... Fact is that the signal voltage across the 10 ohms is about equal (even more) then across the speaker load because they carry the same signal current. So you lose half your power. Just put a cap across it, you still have the DC bias but now all the signal is across the speaker. Jan Didden
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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The 8 ohm winding is coupled to the primary winding so the bottom of the 10R resistor is kind of bootstrapped. In any case, the current available from the transformer secondary is [cathode current variation] x [turns ratio].
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sweden (Mora)
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I agree with Circlotron, the 10 ohm resistor is in series with the primary winding rather than with the secondary winding.
It drops about 0,65VDC at idle and perhaps 1Vpp at max output power, a very small fraction of the total plate swing. |
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