Aikido question

SteveA · 15th November 2006, 09:08 PM

I have the Aikido pcbs designed by John Broskie. I installed both C1 and C2 and intend to switch between them as described in the construction notes. The notes suggest using two rotary switches. Since I will also install the stepped attenuator also from Mr Broskie(three knobs) I want to reduce the number of knobs on the preamp. SinceI have a few DPDT toggle switches laying around, is there any reason not to use one to accomplish the switching?

Thanks,
SteveA

HollowState · 15th November 2006, 09:36 PM

Hi Steve,

Without going to Broskie's pages to see just where these capacitors are, I would assume that a make-before-break switch is probably desirable to avoid switching transients and loud noises.

A rotory switch comes in both make-before-break (shorting) and break-before-make (non-shorting) A toggle switch is only non-shorting and would almost surely make loud pops when switched.

Victor

jayme · 16th November 2006, 12:43 AM

Agreed. You would definately want to use a make-before-break switch if you wanted to flip between caps while playing music...

Even then, it would be best if the cap that was NOT in the signal path was then shorted to ground.

You could use a normal toggle, but you should power down before switching, or at least install a mute switch which shorted the outputs to ground.

If you aren't comfortable with a switch in the output signal path, you could have two sets of RCA outs, one for each cap....just switch your interconnects (powered down, of course).

SteveA · 16th November 2006, 01:22 AM

Thanks guys!! I have power supply question (or two) also. First question is:
The power supply, PS8, on the Welborne site could be used for the Aikido, yes?

Second question:
Broskie said (IIRC) to reference filament supply to 1/4 B+ and provides a circuit to accomplish that. Assuming PS8 can be used for Aikido, I would presume that circuit could be added to PS8. Is that correct?

Thanks again,
SteveA

PS, I was not thinking of switching during play. I would select the C1-in or C2-in prior to playing while powered down. I would think a toggle would work in that situation.

jayme · 16th November 2006, 02:11 AM

The welborne PS8 should work fine, especially for the B+...but you may want to try the heaters straight up with AC before trying the regulated DC. I found AC heaters on my Aikido sounded awesome, and I had no issues with noise or hum.

The filiment reference is easy...just run the full B+ into a 300k 2watt resistor and then split the output...one wire to the filament center tap and another wire to a combo 100k resistor bypassed with a .1uF cap....both connected to ground (The cap provides a straight-wire shunt for any AC on the line). It is a simple voltage divider.

Plus, it provides a shunt to ground for the PSU when you turn off the amp.

SteveA · 16th November 2006, 02:25 AM

jayme,
Thanks again
Steve

jal4172 · 19th November 2006, 01:15 AM

Yes, you can use a toggle swith. I put mine in the back of the unit

jal4172 · 19th November 2006, 02:07 AM

In reply to the make before break, I belive it does not make any difference. Since the both the capacitors are charged through their resistors there should not be any noise. I can swith on the fly with absolutly no noise. BTW - Oil cap sounds better that the film in mine.

SteveA · 20th November 2006, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jayme

The filiment reference is easy...just run the full B+ into a 300k 2watt resistor and then split the output...one wire to the filament center tap and another wire to a combo 100k resistor bypassed with a .1uF cap....both connected to ground (The cap provides a straight-wire shunt for any AC on the line). It is a simple voltage divider.

Sorry, bit of a newbie, but by "one wire to the filament center tap" you refer to the center tap of the filament transformer, correct? or no?

Thanks,
Steve

PS Thanks jal4172

jayme · 20th November 2006, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by SteveA

Sorry, bit of a newbie, but by "one wire to the filament center tap" you refer to the center tap of the filament transformer, correct? or no?

If your transformer has a center tap for the filaments, then yes.

Mine didn't, so I created one with two 47R resistors. Wire each resistor to a leg of the filament transformer and then wire the other ends of each resistor together. This "mid point" serves as a pseudo center tap, and you can connect the B+ reference here.

15th November 2006, 09:08 PM	#1
SteveA diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: St Paul, MN	Aikido question I have the Aikido pcbs designed by John Broskie. I installed both C1 and C2 and intend to switch between them as described in the construction notes. The notes suggest using two rotary switches. Since I will also install the stepped attenuator also from Mr Broskie(three knobs) I want to reduce the number of knobs on the preamp. SinceI have a few DPDT toggle switches laying around, is there any reason not to use one to accomplish the switching? Thanks, SteveA

19th November 2006, 01:15 AM	#7
jal4172 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Knoxville Tennessee	C1 and C2 Yes, you can use a toggle swith. I put mine in the back of the unit

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15th November 2006, 09:36 PM	#2
HollowState diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Taxland, New Jersey	Hi Steve, Without going to Broskie's pages to see just where these capacitors are, I would assume that a make-before-break switch is probably desirable to avoid switching transients and loud noises. A rotory switch comes in both make-before-break (shorting) and break-before-make (non-shorting) A toggle switch is only non-shorting and would almost surely make loud pops when switched. Victor

16th November 2006, 12:43 AM	#3
jayme diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2005	Agreed. You would definately want to use a make-before-break switch if you wanted to flip between caps while playing music... Even then, it would be best if the cap that was NOT in the signal path was then shorted to ground. You could use a normal toggle, but you should power down before switching, or at least install a mute switch which shorted the outputs to ground. If you aren't comfortable with a switch in the output signal path, you could have two sets of RCA outs, one for each cap....just switch your interconnects (powered down, of course).

16th November 2006, 01:22 AM	#4
SteveA diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: St Paul, MN	Thanks guys!! I have power supply question (or two) also. First question is: The power supply, PS8, on the Welborne site could be used for the Aikido, yes? Second question: Broskie said (IIRC) to reference filament supply to 1/4 B+ and provides a circuit to accomplish that. Assuming PS8 can be used for Aikido, I would presume that circuit could be added to PS8. Is that correct? Thanks again, SteveA PS, I was not thinking of switching during play. I would select the C1-in or C2-in prior to playing while powered down. I would think a toggle would work in that situation.

16th November 2006, 02:11 AM	#5
jayme diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2005	The welborne PS8 should work fine, especially for the B+...but you may want to try the heaters straight up with AC before trying the regulated DC. I found AC heaters on my Aikido sounded awesome, and I had no issues with noise or hum. The filiment reference is easy...just run the full B+ into a 300k 2watt resistor and then split the output...one wire to the filament center tap and another wire to a combo 100k resistor bypassed with a .1uF cap....both connected to ground (The cap provides a straight-wire shunt for any AC on the line). It is a simple voltage divider. Plus, it provides a shunt to ground for the PSU when you turn off the amp.

16th November 2006, 02:25 AM	#6
SteveA diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: St Paul, MN	jayme, Thanks again Steve

19th November 2006, 02:07 AM	#8
jal4172 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Knoxville Tennessee	In reply to the make before break, I belive it does not make any difference. Since the both the capacitors are charged through their resistors there should not be any noise. I can swith on the fly with absolutly no noise. BTW - Oil cap sounds better that the film in mine.

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