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#31 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Tokyo, Japan
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Peter: Those are the Cardas binding posts, right? May I suggest that you machine and tap replacement end-caps (the "nut" that you tighten down to secure the spade lugs) out of something non-conductive like Delrin? There is a possibility that you may hear some positive sonic difference, especially if the amplifier won't be asked to pass gobs of current...
regards, jonathan carr
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http://www.lyraconnoisseur.com/, http://www.lyraaudio.com |
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#32 |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Yes,too much metal in the signal path degrades the sound. Think I'm going nuts....
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Frank |
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#33 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Perth, Australia.
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Peter, nice work.
What amp did you kill to get those heat-pipe heatsinks ?. Frank, what do you mean by 'I would fit some damped cones"?. Eric.
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I believe not to believe in any fixed belief system. |
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#34 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Viña del Mar, Torreon
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Your gainclone Peter is a very very nice amp, congratulations.
Is the copper tube structural or only used as a heatsink conductor? What size did you managed overall for the case? |
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#35 | |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Quote:
Too stiff a cone or spike will not isolate properly. I can't recommend these under any apparatus that needs a solid point of reference to earth. Examples are TT and CDP. You need to isolate and dampen straneous vibes. LS need a very solid point to ground to work properly,anything springy there will represent a loss of energy,information IMO. Remember CLS? See my contributions (eeek!) to the DIY TT thread. Being my normal PITA,
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Frank |
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#36 |
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diyAudio Member
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I'll try different nuts. The heat sinks were bought surplus. After seeing what can be done out of them I bought the whole remaining stock (12pcs.). The tube is not structural. The amp's size is 6" x 8".
The whole chassiss rests on 3 spikes. Front plate is attached to acrylic block, the white part (teflon like) is used for supporting the caps (and also for damping) and is attached to the acrylic block and heatsinks.
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#37 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Perth, Australia.
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"Too stiff a cone or spike will not isolate properly.".
Umm, all the cones or spikes I have seen are solid metal, and provide complete coupling - no compliance at all. "LS need a very solid point to ground to work properly,anything springy there will represent a loss of energy,information IMO." I have gone counter to this old argument/reasoning, and find the springs to give near perfect isolation. When under equipment, virtually zero motion is coupled from the supporting shelf, even when the shelf is buzzing like crazy. When under speakers, very little vibration is transferred to the supporting shelf. I find this allows bigger and more tunefull bass, friendlier mids, and SPL goes up - energy is not mechanically transferred to the shelf, and all the energy is transduced by the driver/box combination, and virtually none to the shelf. I am finding that this lossless high compliance mounting method does not cause extra resonances, and reduces natural ones. "Remember CLS?" Aaaahh, no. What is that ?. Eric.
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I believe not to believe in any fixed belief system. |
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#38 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Sofia
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Peter
Your latest clone is giving me the creeps. Apart from a nice but wasted chunk of acrylic what are these horror structures on the side? I hope selenium rectifiers, as if they're heatsinks all the vibtration controll efforts are wasted. They do remind of late seventies Sony and ring in most unmusical manner. cheers peter |
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#39 | |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
You're talking shelf speakies or what? Nah,man...A speaker,a floorstander I mean,should have a solid reference to ground. Quote:
But...if they're not effective at absorbing energy you're better off with the spring you're using IMO. Cones with gradual damping do exist and are a good alternative. Cheers,
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Frank |
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#40 | |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Quote:
See above for more info or in a nutshell: Damping various materials by applying a certain amount of pressure between (or on) them. Peter Daniel use it (maybe without being aware of the principles involved) with his granite,expanded foam support. Cheers,
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Frank |
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