I just got home from an estate sale after finding a fairly good deal
on a Complete audiophile grade system.
It was mounted in a custom (owner built) console.
1- Mcintosh 240
1- Marantz Series 7 pre-amp.
1- Scott Tuner
1- Scott Thingy(Maybe speaker switching unit)
1- Fancy old Turn Table
All of these units are in near mint condition, But, It is my understanding that they may not have been used in nearly 5 years. A very light coat of dust that feather dusted right off.
Has Telefunken 12AX7's in The Mcintosh, 4 X GE 6L6GC's
I have a variac, But I have never used it on anything like this nor do I know exactly what the proper power up sequence should be or how fast It should be brought up.
I have built a lot of guitar amps, Up to 50W, and several 5-18W stereo amps so I have some skill.
But I REALLY REALLY want to bring these babies back to life without damage.
BTW, I went to this sale and the entire setup was marked $75.00,
I told the guy, Heck, I'll give you $150.00 if you help me load it.
Pretty much the great find of the year
Trout
on a Complete audiophile grade system.
It was mounted in a custom (owner built) console.
1- Mcintosh 240
1- Marantz Series 7 pre-amp.
1- Scott Tuner
1- Scott Thingy(Maybe speaker switching unit)
1- Fancy old Turn Table
All of these units are in near mint condition, But, It is my understanding that they may not have been used in nearly 5 years. A very light coat of dust that feather dusted right off.
Has Telefunken 12AX7's in The Mcintosh, 4 X GE 6L6GC's
I have a variac, But I have never used it on anything like this nor do I know exactly what the proper power up sequence should be or how fast It should be brought up.
I have built a lot of guitar amps, Up to 50W, and several 5-18W stereo amps so I have some skill.
But I REALLY REALLY want to bring these babies back to life without damage.
BTW, I went to this sale and the entire setup was marked $75.00,
I told the guy, Heck, I'll give you $150.00 if you help me load it.
Pretty much the great find of the year
Trout
The Mac's a tank. I pulled one out from under a pile of scrap metal and rack panels and it fired up with little more than replacing the thermistor and tubes. My recommendation would be to test the tubes or drop a few bucks on a replacement set and go the variac route. Schematics are easy to find on line. Take your time, if it's truly mint and original $3000 wouldn't surprise me as its worth.
rdf said:
My big questions are going the variac route,
#1, I should meter the AC line voltage?
#2, How fast or slow should I raise the AC line voltage?
#3, Should all tubes be installed during the initial power up?
#3a, With or without a music source?
#4, Assuming it initially powers up without any signs of trouble, How long should I run the unit on the variac before switching to plugged into the outlet normally?
Trout
Hi Trout,
1 - yes
2 - depends on current draw. There is no timed answer.
3 - yes, absolutely! Watch the plates of the outputs!!!! Low light helps.
3a - no music, shorted input so you can hear clearly. Do connect speakers to have an audible warning if things start to go sideways.
4 - depends on how you feel.
-Chris
Edit: I personally feel that with a unit this old, you need to replace a ton of resistors and capacitors. I have found the caps they use in McIntosh to be good so far. Other products with the wax covered caps should be replaced wholesale.
1 - yes
2 - depends on current draw. There is no timed answer.
3 - yes, absolutely! Watch the plates of the outputs!!!! Low light helps.
3a - no music, shorted input so you can hear clearly. Do connect speakers to have an audible warning if things start to go sideways.
4 - depends on how you feel.
-Chris
Edit: I personally feel that with a unit this old, you need to replace a ton of resistors and capacitors. I have found the caps they use in McIntosh to be good so far. Other products with the wax covered caps should be replaced wholesale.
Let me throw you an alternative spin. These items are worth big bucks to collectors on eBay. Sell them and laugh your best evil laugh as PayPal deposits big bucks into your bank account. Then set out to build your own in the best DIY tradition. You'll have a lot of fun, learn a lot, and maybe even end up with a better sounding rig.
It's always good to ask the inverse question: If you didn't already have a Marantz 7C (to pick one of your items) would you go out and pay thousands for it? If not, then sell it for thousands and use the money to buy parts and save the rest for a vacation.
If these things are worth thousands to you to keep, then that's OK - never mind.
It's always good to ask the inverse question: If you didn't already have a Marantz 7C (to pick one of your items) would you go out and pay thousands for it? If not, then sell it for thousands and use the money to buy parts and save the rest for a vacation.
If these things are worth thousands to you to keep, then that's OK - never mind.
OK, In the same cabinet I got
The HC Scott Stereomaster Type 335 Wideband Multiplex unit,
Scott 330C Tuner
Garrard Type A Lab Turntable
Not as high end as the rest of the parts ( Mcintosh & Marantz) but still some nice toys.
I did not buy the speakers, They were some old marantz units.
Trout
The HC Scott Stereomaster Type 335 Wideband Multiplex unit,
Scott 330C Tuner
Garrard Type A Lab Turntable
Not as high end as the rest of the parts ( Mcintosh & Marantz) but still some nice toys.
I did not buy the speakers, They were some old marantz units.
Trout
Well,
I searched ebays completed listings today, For sure that Marantz 7 is going on the auction block, The last 4 sold for between 4 & $6100.00 us.
I could build me 1 fine system for that easy. I have had my eye on Tubelabs site waiting patiently for his upcoming boards. Now I can get some good iron
Heck, for that much I could still afford another nice GEETAR LOL
The McIntosh MC240 I am going to keep, 40W per channel seems like I could get some very clean playback volume in my music room.
I am however going to have to invest in some worthy speakers , That or build some.
Trout
I searched ebays completed listings today, For sure that Marantz 7 is going on the auction block, The last 4 sold for between 4 & $6100.00 us.
I could build me 1 fine system for that easy. I have had my eye on Tubelabs site waiting patiently for his upcoming boards. Now I can get some good iron
Heck, for that much I could still afford another nice GEETAR LOL
The McIntosh MC240 I am going to keep, 40W per channel seems like I could get some very clean playback volume in my music room.
I am however going to have to invest in some worthy speakers , That or build some.
Trout
Hi Gene,
Of the McIntosh tube amps I've heard, the MC240 has been the best so far. I'd like to hear an MC275. Good choice I think. You're right though. The value of an original preamp far outstrips it's actual value. Just be careful on Eeeekbay.
The last few Mc240's I've done needed most of the resistors replaced. The coupling caps seem to be good, but may as well replace those too. The tag board is easy to work on compared to p-p wiring.
You know what Gene? You deserve some good luck buddy, I'm glad to see you came out ahead.
-Chris
Of the McIntosh tube amps I've heard, the MC240 has been the best so far. I'd like to hear an MC275. Good choice I think. You're right though. The value of an original preamp far outstrips it's actual value. Just be careful on Eeeekbay.
The last few Mc240's I've done needed most of the resistors replaced. The coupling caps seem to be good, but may as well replace those too. The tag board is easy to work on compared to p-p wiring.
You know what Gene? You deserve some good luck buddy, I'm glad to see you came out ahead.
-Chris
I concur about the MC240 being the pick of McIntosh's litter.
I drooled over the idea of using a MC-225 and an MC240 in a tri-amped system. I liked the littler one's more than the old MC-275. I don't wan't to get into tube sound vs. solid state, but ....they sounded smooth and sweet. ...and maybe had softer clipping characteristics than solid-state to help protect the drivers. The Mac's did clip like a solid state amp, by showing low distortion all the way up clipping then flat-top clipping. Most of the tube amps I see start to have THD rise gradually from about 1/2 full power on up.
You could sell the McIntosh and have enough left over to build an amp and speakers.
The McIntosh Output transformers are probably very hard to duplicate. Nice hunting!
I drooled over the idea of using a MC-225 and an MC240 in a tri-amped system. I liked the littler one's more than the old MC-275. I don't wan't to get into tube sound vs. solid state, but ....they sounded smooth and sweet. ...and maybe had softer clipping characteristics than solid-state to help protect the drivers. The Mac's did clip like a solid state amp, by showing low distortion all the way up clipping then flat-top clipping. Most of the tube amps I see start to have THD rise gradually from about 1/2 full power on up.
You could sell the McIntosh and have enough left over to build an amp and speakers.
The McIntosh Output transformers are probably very hard to duplicate. Nice hunting!
anatech said:Hi Gene,
Of the McIntosh tube amps I've heard, the MC240 has been the best so far. I'd like to hear an MC275. Good choice I think. You're right though. The value of an original preamp far outstrips it's actual value. Just be careful on Eeeekbay.
The last few Mc240's I've done needed most of the resistors replaced. The coupling caps seem to be good, but may as well replace those too. The tag board is easy to work on compared to p-p wiring.
You know what Gene? You deserve some good luck buddy, I'm glad to see you came out ahead.
-Chris
Thanks Chris!!
All Luck has its limits as I just found out today.
The Series 7 pre-amp has issues
After testing all those nice looking Telefunkens, And comparing the MU to the JJ, Sovtek, RCA, and Mullards I have, I determined them to be about 80%. Not bad for 30yr old tubes I guess. 1 tube had a half at about 70% which of course is pushing the envelope but usable.
Now the Bad Luck, Channel "B" is not outputting properly.
It has low and distorted output and I have no clue where to start. I have the factory schematic, So that's a start. I am thinking it might be best to job this one out to somebody that can do an era correct repair.
Marantz 7 Schematic
What I have found so far is that the tone (Bass & Treble) controls do work on channel B, But the volume needs cranked to get sound.
Channel A however sounds amazing!! The Stepped tone controls really are effective.
This thing is for sure 100% original and after a great deal of inspection, Most likely it has never been opened since it left the factory. I took loads of pictures of the insides, What a masterpiece.
I could most likely struggle through fixing this baby, But If there is a tech out there than can do it correctly, I might ship it out for service.
Trout
When I first plugged it in, I got sound in both channels for a couple moments, Then B dropped out. The Switches seem good, Not noisey at all, Nor are the pots which was a surprise.
I'll poke around a bit in the morning, I can at least get a few voltage measurements on the valves and run around the resistors with my meter.
But If I have a bad bumble bee cap,, Im scr3wed. The only guy I ever saw that had them listed regularly on ebay was TBavis, And I have not seen him post here in a long time.
Gezzz I wanted to tun this thing, Momma says I can Keep the MC240 but the & has to go lol
She saw the ebay value and decided she needs more shoes LOL.
Trout
I'll poke around a bit in the morning, I can at least get a few voltage measurements on the valves and run around the resistors with my meter.
But If I have a bad bumble bee cap,, Im scr3wed. The only guy I ever saw that had them listed regularly on ebay was TBavis, And I have not seen him post here in a long time.
Gezzz I wanted to tun this thing, Momma says I can Keep the MC240 but the & has to go lol
She saw the ebay value and decided she needs more shoes LOL.
Trout
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