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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Michigan
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Hello, I am so hungry to build another power amp. I am trying to decied between an El34 PP triode design, or just a PSET design.
I am having trouble finding PSET designs for just 2 El34s Per Channel. Will El34s running in PP in triode mode even go beyond Class A? Would someone please direct me toward a good PSE design that uses 2 tubes per channel? I am dying to try this out. Or as I am still a newbie, should I build a PP amp first before I try PSE? I am lost! please help me! -Moose |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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Triode, UL, or pentode, how you bias the tube determines the class of operation. Only Class "A" is suitable for HIFI when SE topology is employed. You have options when PP "finals" are used. IMO, "shallow" Class "A" operation has a lot going for it. You squeeze out a little more when peak power O/P is needed, while avoiding cross over problems most of the time.
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Eli D. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
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2 tube PSE, I will tell you what I do. If the power supply in your existing amp is capable of supplying twice the current, you can do this. Wire a second (same brand) EL34 directly in parallel with the existing tube. The best way to do this is to use seperate stopper resistors for each tube. The cathode resistor now needs to be half its original value. The output transformer must now be half its impedance also. This will double the output power, so to take advantage of this power, you need a larger transformrer
Running two tubes in P-P allows the tubes to operate in class A, B, AB1, or AB2. A SE amp must always run in class A
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Too much power is almost enough! Turn it up till it explodes - then back up just a little. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Jakarta
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Exactly as Eli says. From class A in triode PP, you only get 12w output. In class AB1, you can get 16w. I doubt if anyone would be able to tell the difference, in terms of distortion.
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Leverkusen
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Hi Alex,
Quote:
Also, this extreme 4*PSET one comes to mind. Tom
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If in doubt, just measure. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: UK
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Quote:
What speaker did u use ? if not more than 90db ... please dont built it !! complete waste of $$$$ !! unless u built for ... hobby |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Michigan
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my speakers are 90 db, they get loud enough with one Triode-connected EL34 per channel, so I am just looking to add a little more *umph* in a new amplifier
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Leuven
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I seriously doubt that, beyond a certain minimum threshold, more watts equal more oomph. My 94db/w backloaded horns sound more powerful when driven by a 1.5watt el84 set when compared to an el34pp, 30watts/channel. You could also try to connect the el34's screen with the Bill Perkins gizmo, this will give a lot more attack to the overall sound + tighter basses. A somewhat weak, smudged sound is inherent not in low-powered amps but a result of the conventional resistor triode-strapping method.
Simon |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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More watts means more oomph right out to the limits of the speaker. Its just that the numbers get big in a hurry due to the exponential relationships.
It takes about 10x the power for something to be percieved as twice as loud, depending.
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Be sure your foil hat has a good low impedance ground. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Leuven
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Quote:
There's that famous phrase: If the first watt doesn't sound good, etc... Quantity won't solve a quality problem Simon |
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