El34 PP Vs. El34 PSE - Page 5

alexmoose · 4th September 2006, 06:35 PM

This?

Brian Beck · 4th September 2006, 08:46 PM

Yep, try that.

alexmoose · 4th September 2006, 08:57 PM

Well, I have to build the amp first, haha

tubelab.com · 6th September 2006, 01:53 AM

Look at the LM334Z. Morgan Jones used them in a few of his amps. If you have the third edition, check pages 476, 477, 478, and 484. I have used them also with a 6J6 and a 12AT7. In most cases the negative voltage can be eliminated, just connect it to ground. In my 12AT7 bases phase splitter, I think that it may sound better with a negative 5 volts applied. These are only good for 10 mA though.

As mentioned before the LM317 sounds like **** when signal is applied to it. I would try the LM334Z. If you are going to use a negative voltage, then just use the IXYS10M45 chip, instead of your cascode circuit. It is good to several hundred KHz, and it sounds good too.

alexmoose · 6th September 2006, 02:26 AM

If I am going to place an order to Digikey, I might as well use the 10m45 to CCS load the 12at7? should I do this for both the driver, and the phase inverter? or just the driver?

mus · 6th September 2006, 08:21 AM

Hi,
How about the DIY-CCS? I think they are good!

tubelab.com · 6th September 2006, 12:50 PM

The schematic that you show in post #33 uses a 12AT7 as the Long Tailed Pair, which is both the phase splitter and the driver. In this circuit you want just one CCS in the cathode circuit as shown. The plates should be loaded with resistors as shown. More than one CCS per circuit generally causes them to fight each other leading to instability and general bad behavior. Copy the circuit as shown, just replace the LM317 circuit with the CCS circuit of your choice. As pointed out here there are plenty of them to choose from.

alexmoose · 6th September 2006, 05:44 PM

okay, I have seen to LEDs fight before, I guess it makes sense for all CCS's. I have no clue when construction on this amp will begin, I have the money to build, but now being a full-time student, and with little labspace, I will just take it slow and Steady. I've heard that the best
DIY is done that way

4th September 2006, 08:46 PM	#42
Brian Beck diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: South Florida, USA	Yep, try that. __________________ Brian

6th September 2006, 01:53 AM	#44
tubelab.com diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: South Florida	Look at the LM334Z. Morgan Jones used them in a few of his amps. If you have the third edition, check pages 476, 477, 478, and 484. I have used them also with a 6J6 and a 12AT7. In most cases the negative voltage can be eliminated, just connect it to ground. In my 12AT7 bases phase splitter, I think that it may sound better with a negative 5 volts applied. These are only good for 10 mA though. As mentioned before the LM317 sounds like **** when signal is applied to it. I would try the LM334Z. If you are going to use a negative voltage, then just use the IXYS10M45 chip, instead of your cascode circuit. It is good to several hundred KHz, and it sounds good too. __________________ Too much power is almost enough! Turn it up till it explodes - then back up just a little.

6th September 2006, 12:50 PM	#47
tubelab.com diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: South Florida	The schematic that you show in post #33 uses a 12AT7 as the Long Tailed Pair, which is both the phase splitter and the driver. In this circuit you want just one CCS in the cathode circuit as shown. The plates should be loaded with resistors as shown. More than one CCS per circuit generally causes them to fight each other leading to instability and general bad behavior. Copy the circuit as shown, just replace the LM317 circuit with the CCS circuit of your choice. As pointed out here there are plenty of them to choose from. __________________ Too much power is almost enough! Turn it up till it explodes - then back up just a little.

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4th September 2006, 08:57 PM	#43
alexmoose diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Michigan	Well, I have to build the amp first, haha

6th September 2006, 02:26 AM	#45
alexmoose diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Michigan	If I am going to place an order to Digikey, I might as well use the 10m45 to CCS load the 12at7? should I do this for both the driver, and the phase inverter? or just the driver?

6th September 2006, 08:21 AM	#46
mus diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: bc	Hi, How about the DIY-CCS? I think they are good!

6th September 2006, 05:44 PM	#48
alexmoose diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Michigan	okay, I have seen to LEDs fight before, I guess it makes sense for all CCS's. I have no clue when construction on this amp will begin, I have the money to build, but now being a full-time student, and with little labspace, I will just take it slow and Steady. I've heard that the best DIY is done that way

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