cleaning sockets/pins
One of the drawbacks of just using acid to clean pins is non-wetting of the surface. Acids tend to accentuate non-polar dirt and grease problems on surfaces (unless they are VERY strong and have an oxidizing nature, like nitric, perchloric, sulfuric, etc.)
The better way to clean stubborn metal surfaces is to first soak the parts in dishwasher detergent, or garage floor cleaner (perhaps made up double strength or stronger). This loosens and dissolves old crud build-up and organic debris that's cooked on over the years inside the chasis without attacking the metal and or bakelite/socket plastic.
If you happen to have an ultrasonic cleaner handy (jewelry stores and hobby sources sell these) that's all the better. Or a couple of runs through the dishwasher also works. As a last resort, one can use 1:1 ammonia or 10% sodium hydroxide to really cut the crud, but be sure to test and make sure the non-metal portion of the device is unaffected.
A process used in the metal finishing industry is electrocleaning, wherein a cathodic voltage (-) is placed on the part to be cleaned, evolving atomic hydrogen which reduces metal oxides and helps to scrub the surface... this is very effective.
After any of these alkaline treatments, a quick dip (30 secs.) in a DILUTE HCL or H2SO4 soln (usually no more than 10% of conc. acid) removes the remaining light and uniforrm oxide layer left after the cleaning treatment, making the (copper/nickel/iron/unobtanium
surface receptive for a metal to metal bond during the plating /painting/ whatever) coating process to follow. (unobtanium requires the use of the universal solvent, which can be a tricky material to contain... :-
Most of the sockets and / or tube pins I've seen have either a tin or nickel deposit; nickel is ubiquitous as the metal of choice for plating... almost all gold / copper / tin / chrome plating always has a substantial nickel layer to provide the necessary corrosion resistance, typically in the 10 - 25 micron thickness range.
Personally, I use a 1:1 vinegar soln for cleaning coffee pots to great success. HCL will eventually dissolve the (aluminum / stainless / whatever) metal parts of your coffee maker.
hope this helps...
auplater
One of the drawbacks of just using acid to clean pins is non-wetting of the surface. Acids tend to accentuate non-polar dirt and grease problems on surfaces (unless they are VERY strong and have an oxidizing nature, like nitric, perchloric, sulfuric, etc.)
The better way to clean stubborn metal surfaces is to first soak the parts in dishwasher detergent, or garage floor cleaner (perhaps made up double strength or stronger). This loosens and dissolves old crud build-up and organic debris that's cooked on over the years inside the chasis without attacking the metal and or bakelite/socket plastic.
If you happen to have an ultrasonic cleaner handy (jewelry stores and hobby sources sell these) that's all the better. Or a couple of runs through the dishwasher also works. As a last resort, one can use 1:1 ammonia or 10% sodium hydroxide to really cut the crud, but be sure to test and make sure the non-metal portion of the device is unaffected.
A process used in the metal finishing industry is electrocleaning, wherein a cathodic voltage (-) is placed on the part to be cleaned, evolving atomic hydrogen which reduces metal oxides and helps to scrub the surface... this is very effective.
After any of these alkaline treatments, a quick dip (30 secs.) in a DILUTE HCL or H2SO4 soln (usually no more than 10% of conc. acid) removes the remaining light and uniforrm oxide layer left after the cleaning treatment, making the (copper/nickel/iron/unobtanium
surface receptive for a metal to metal bond during the plating /painting/ whatever) coating process to follow. (unobtanium requires the use of the universal solvent, which can be a tricky material to contain... :-Most of the sockets and / or tube pins I've seen have either a tin or nickel deposit; nickel is ubiquitous as the metal of choice for plating... almost all gold / copper / tin / chrome plating always has a substantial nickel layer to provide the necessary corrosion resistance, typically in the 10 - 25 micron thickness range.
Personally, I use a 1:1 vinegar soln for cleaning coffee pots to great success. HCL will eventually dissolve the (aluminum / stainless / whatever) metal parts of your coffee maker.
hope this helps...
auplater
Phosphoric acid as used in consumer rust removers removes oxides from and brightens tin and nickel very well. Brownells rust remover works best for me for all oxidation removing jobs. Of course you must neutralize and rinse well any acid on electronic stuff or it will leak like mad.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1083&title=RUST+and+BLUE+REMOVER
John
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1083&title=RUST+and+BLUE+REMOVER
John
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