tubelab

[ethermion]

George's tubelab looked like a good idea to me.

http://www.tubelab.com/The_Tubelab.htm

I went to Home Depot, and they didn't have the nylon pegboard. Bummer.

Anyone else try this?

[Geek]

Nope.

I use these and a regular breadboard.

[ethermion]

I did find this as the cheapest place to get nylon pegboard. They shipped pretty quickly.

http://www.chdist.com/

SKU 1538300 Poly Duraboard

[tubelab.com]

I dug around the lab and found a piece of the material that had part of the label on it. It contained the leters EverT.....

Some Googleing led to this article:

http://www.the-review.com/archive/09172004/PDF/D10.pdf

and this:

http://www.helpwantedredding.com/cur...handg351.shtml

I guess that my memory isn't what it used to be. It comes from Loews, not Home Depot. At least here the two stores are about 1 block apart. I often go to both on the same trip. It is cheap, $11 for a 2 by 4 foot piece.

[ethermion]

Well, that is no good. I paid around $80 shipped for the Duraboard stuff. Geomatrix - I will have to look into that.

Duraboard is made out of hot glue. When I cut it in half with a sabre saw, it melted back together. Stronger than before.

[Brian Beck]

This is another pegboard prototyping technique. Mine uses a 24”x24” Masonite pegboard mounted on 1.5”x1.5” strips of wood around the perimeter to hold the board off the table. Now that I’ve heard of the Nylon pegboard material, I will try that. I just place Teflon-insulated standoffs into a peg hole where I need a node and tack-solder the parts’ leads to them. I like to tack-solder because it’s quick and I feel that I can get a reasonably secure and reliable connection. Using fairly long leads the parts can be used again in the final version. I do like Tubelab’s breadboard approaches too.

[arnoldc]

You guys have reallu nice prototyping rigs!

Here's my SE prototyping chassis with the 125ESE serving OPT duties. It's shown here with my prototype 417A headamp.

[Jeb-D.]

I'm all about the euro barrier strips

[kevinkr]

Most of you guys are way ahead of me on the proto-board scene.

I'm embarrassed to admit mine is a plain old plank of wood with a bunch of sockets attached. Connection points are long screws through the board with nuts and washers on top and insulated on the bottom. It's prone to vhf oscillations with certain tubes depending on wire lead dress, and its probably a death trap. I haven't used it much in the last 10 yrs..

I design and build things and they usually work well, little additional tweaking has been required, but I can't help but feel that I am missing the opportunity and some fun in being able to quickly check things out. And when things don't work quite as anticipated what a pain...

I'm inspired and shamed at the same time.. I'm going to do something quite similar to what George (tubelab) came up with. It will probably make the hobby a whole lot more fun too.

[ethermion]

Originally posted by Jeb-D.
I'm all about the euro barrier strips

I bought a bunch of 6 section Molex ones from Mouser. Attach to the modules with 4-40 screws.

I bought 26" picture frame pieces from the local girlie arts & crafts place. About $1 per side. Cut 2'x2' of the peg board, and screwed it in. Stable enough.

You need pvc covered for hookup wire. It is very hard to get slippery teflon stuff into the euro block holes. Frayed leads are a pain too, so I have been tinning a few.