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Old 29th June 2006, 07:14 AM   #1
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Default Larger chassis Hole Punches

Where can I buy chassis hole punches for larger sizes 65 mm (2 & 9/16 inches) and 75 mm (2 & 15/16 inches) for a tube amp that are not too expensive (I know they are a little rare, but I got some prices that were enormous)?

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Old 29th June 2006, 08:37 AM   #2
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Old 29th June 2006, 08:48 AM   #3
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I have the same problem. What I want is two 52mm holes in my 3mm topp plate. I was recommended a place where thay have a laser-cutter but my plate coulden`t fit in their machine. Punches of this size is very expensive. I guess its cheaper to get the work done at workshop that has them.

If no one in my town has such punches I will consider what we in my language call a "hole-cup" used on a drill. The cut will not be pretty so it will take a lot of work to make it look nice.
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Old 29th June 2006, 11:46 AM   #4
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Default fly cutter

If you have a drill press, dhaen from diyaudio cut some 70 mm holes in 6 mm aluminium.
He used a "fly cutter" (the UK name)?
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Old 29th June 2006, 11:56 AM   #5
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I use one of these
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Old 29th June 2006, 12:18 PM   #6
SHiFTY is offline SHiFTY  New Zealand
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I used a new, sharp, hole-saw on a drill press. With care and some cutting oil it came out pretty ok, especially after painting the top plate.
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Old 29th June 2006, 04:20 PM   #7
poobah is offline poobah  United States
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Hole saws or "hole cups" can do very nice job. It helps to put a thick piece of hard wood (similar metal works best) underneath the metal you are drilling. Also, a thin piece of metal over your workpiece can help to reduce burr and scratches... but it must be clamped very securely to provide an advantage.

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Old 29th June 2006, 04:30 PM   #8
Variac is offline Variac  United States
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Andrewbee, that's a flycutter. I think they call them that over here too. Just that you don't hear the term much if you don't hang out in a shop!

Of course it HAS to be used in a drill press.
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Old 29th June 2006, 04:33 PM   #9
nickds1 is offline nickds1  England
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The main problem with these "saw" cutters is that they can jump, and as has been pointed out, they make a mess. Whatever you do, use a sharp clean saw. In the UK these go by the generic name "Starrett " (although that is the trade name )

Sandwich the metal sheet between a base of 1/2" ply, and a top of 1/4" ply (need not be ply - a similar high-density & rigid board like MDF, or real wood will do). You should drill a pilot hole the same size as the arbor on your cutter where you want the hole to go, and in both the upper & lower pieces of wood.

Use the arbor to locate the three pieces in the drill (thin wood, metal, thick base wood), and clamp the sandwich FIRMLY on at least 2 sides close to the edge of the final hole. Note the arbor should be IN THE HOLES when this is done - this will ensure good registration and thus get the hole where you want it. The sandwich not only makes for a clean cut, but it also prevents the panel being damaged by the clamp & stops it warping as its cut. Cut slowly, lifting the cutter periodically to blow away any swarf and to let the metal cool (it may discolor if it gets too hot).

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Old 29th June 2006, 05:28 PM   #10
Aengus is offline Aengus  Canada
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This whole thread so far has been about cutting "metal", which may be misleading. If we're talking aluminum or copper, it's pretty straightforward. If you have a 1/4" (6mm) stainless-steel plate, you have a different problem.

For soft metals like aluminum, nickds1's advice is excellent. Tools can be found at:

Circle cutter (fly cutter to machinists)

Diamond hole-saws

Bi-metal hole-saws
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