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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Hong Kong
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I am trying to improve my scratch built GG's channel separation. Among other factors, the psu is a place to work on. Currently, it use a single psu for both channels. Reading from others posts, I understand that one way to improve is to let each channel has its own final stage in the ripple filter.
The current schematic is here. Zener is 100V each, B+ and B- required are 200V. All cap shown are each 3X100uF (i.e. total 18 cap). I am thinking of spliting the last stage cap (i.e. C9 and C12) and use the cap for each channel like in the "after" image. So C9 C12 become 2X100uF and new cap in the scheumatic is 1X100uF. Do you think it will work? By the way, I found V drop across R17 R19 which make the B around (195V). Can I move it before the zenor? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: diyAudio Special Operations Center
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why not use a complimentary pair of high voltage transistors as series pass elements? or maybe power Mosfets?
EDIT: are you going to use a transformer for that? |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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Sorry... what is a GG?
And if I'm reading right you're trying to directly rectify line voltage. VERY VERY DANGEROUS
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: India
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I’m sure you don’t mean that, but your schematic appears to be drawing AC straight from the wall socket, which is obviously dangerous.
Either revise your schematic or withdraw it. In any case mods would be doing that soon |
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#5 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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GG i assume is Grounded Grid.
And to reinforce... i sure hope that 230VAC is coming from a transformer secondary. Anything else gets you into the Darwin Awards (ie high likliehood of death dave Edit: i added a notation to the drawing.
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Hong Kong
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Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. I must have lost my head. Here is the correct one. To recap my questions:
1. Will spliting the last stage cap this way ok? 2. Should I move the R17 before the zenor to avoid V drop? Thanks for your help. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Hong Kong
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Nobody answer just because I made a mistake?
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: India
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Quote:
You may consider branching out just after C2. Each rail its own Zener string. C2>Rx2>C3x2>Zx2>C4x2 . What B+ are you looking at ? You can be comfortably in the region of 200~220 VDC. Do you have a CT Power TX secondary? Then you may consider using a bridge. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Hong Kong
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carbato,
Thank you for the reply. By C2, I guess you mean the second stage of the filter (i.e. C8 & C11). Am I right? For the C2>Rx2>C3x2>Zx2>C4x2, do C3 and C4 be the same value as C2? Can they be smaller? I don't know what is CT Power TX secondary. If it means another 220VAC output, then I don't have. There is only one set of 220VAC from my transformer, so I cannot use 2 bridges. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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I have been thinking about HPHV regulator. May be you can try
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