Je te le conseil pas, j`ai deja essayer, car c`est du fillage assez gros (la pin) donc ca prend du temps a chauffer. De plus, moi tout ce que j`ai réussit a faire c`est casser la pin d`un tube de 25 $....
donc non acheter toi le socket a la place.. ca en vaut le cout
For english folks, i said no...
donc non acheter toi le socket a la place.. ca en vaut le cout
For english folks, i said no...
Actually I did this once when I was in the same situation and too impatient to wait for the sockets to arrive. I wrapped solidcore copper wire around each pin and tried to solder them to the steel pins of a 6922 tube. Even with a 80watt iron the solder wouldn't stick to the pins. But I still got the components connected and it did work, though I dont recommend it. Not a good and longlasting connection. But if desperate enuff...
In a pinch, I have used the socket pins from a Radio Shack RS-232 connector, with some heatshrink tubing shrunk onto each socket pin. (Rat Shack has heatshrink too) Works real nice, and they are gold plated socket pins.
In fact, it worked so well, that I now use this method for a curve tracer setup, where I can pin configure the "socket" for any tube type quickly.
Soldering directly onto tube pins will likely crack the glass vacuum seal.
Don
In fact, it worked so well, that I now use this method for a curve tracer setup, where I can pin configure the "socket" for any tube type quickly.
Soldering directly onto tube pins will likely crack the glass vacuum seal.
Don
I've used it for the 802 pentode, socket for it seems to be almost unobtainable. Otherwise, alligator clips are the way to go, but I wouldn't suggest this without suggesting to BE CAREFUL with the high voltages, alligator clips can jump out of their place if aren't placed carefully, and maybe hit your face 
The AMC was the single stupidest idea I ever saw. Even stupider was the gullible puff piece in HFN&RR, written by everyone's favorite valve putain. In breathlessly reporting that they had eliminated a contact in the tube path, he somehow neglected to mention that they had to add one in the board connector.
Yeah, it's a PITA to service. I'd never do it in a commercial product. But for diy, well...
Yeah, it's a PITA to service. I'd never do it in a commercial product. But for diy, well...
That pretty much sums it up.
Years ago I did a little warranty service for the Canadian disty. They wanted me to spend $200 and something on an octal soldering tool. I just had them send me new boards.
Is there a link to that silly artcle SY?
For DIY, why not then remove the socket and mount the wires creating a shock mounting system? Assuming these are signal tubes. Replacement just became easy.
For a quick 9-pin deal, use some push on clips intended for something else.
-Chris
I've used those RS232 connectors also,and even managed to solder them onto the pins of a 6X4(?? it was some kinda 7 pin tube)
The trick is to clean and sand the tube pins well,don't heat the pins any more than you have to ,and afterwards don't stress the pin connections. (I had a pin "come loose" and the 6X4 tube lost it's vaccumm.)
Octals,for some reason,seem a bit easier to solder?
The trick is to clean and sand the tube pins well,don't heat the pins any more than you have to ,and afterwards don't stress the pin connections. (I had a pin "come loose" and the 6X4 tube lost it's vaccumm.)
Octals,for some reason,seem a bit easier to solder?
Octal tube pins are just soldered over the actual lead wires coming out of the envelope. They are meant to be soldered.
There are times a "defective" octal tube only has poor connections to it's base. Resoldering the pins can fix this. I had a customer with some Chinese KT-88's that would blow fuses in the amps. Among others, grid connections were intermittent. Talk about a fun time troubleshooting that! Resoldering the tubes fixed the amp, the guy could not afford a set of good tubes.
-Chris
There are times a "defective" octal tube only has poor connections to it's base. Resoldering the pins can fix this. I had a customer with some Chinese KT-88's that would blow fuses in the amps. Among others, grid connections were intermittent. Talk about a fun time troubleshooting that! Resoldering the tubes fixed the amp, the guy could not afford a set of good tubes.
-Chris
Don't know about the sound with "air" insulation. But I have been thinking of making some Teflon socket insulator bases with holes for the RS-232 pins and slots on the side at each pin, so the pins (with attached flexible wire) can be removed and reconfigured for a different tube. Ultimate socket for prototyping, curve tracer or gm/Mu tester setup.
Don
Don
About RS-232, are you talking about DIN-8 plugs? I doubt you're talking about DB-9...
The tube is a $40 NOS Amperex Bugle Boy 6DJ8, and I don't want to break it...
Going at an electronics shop is not really an option...
I have a cheap IC socket that might do the job if I cut it...
Oh, and Audio Marginal doesn't seem too far so it could be an option.
EDIT: I don't think that they're still in business...
The tube is a $40 NOS Amperex Bugle Boy 6DJ8, and I don't want to break it...
Going at an electronics shop is not really an option...
I have a cheap IC socket that might do the job if I cut it...
Oh, and Audio Marginal doesn't seem too far so it could be an option.
EDIT: I don't think that they're still in business...
Yes, DB-9 or DB-25 etc. The Rat Shack pins are not machined pins, so they have a large range of pin diameter acceptance. Then you need the heatshrink around them to tighten them up firmly. Can put a ty-rap around the wires when finished connecting up the tube, so that yanking inadvertantly on one of the leads does not bend or break the tube pin.
Don
Don
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