Musical Fidelity X10-D - changing tubes problem

gsrai · 19th February 2006, 01:48 PM

Hi everyone

As you can see I am new to this forum but could really do with some advice (sorry if this is in the wrong section).

I have just bought an X10-D tube buffer (round one) so I can play with the tubes and I have also bought some Jan Phillips 6822's.

I've opened up the tube and when I pull the board out the back it stops half way because the LED is wired in at the front. I've tried pushing the LED but not too hard so it pops out but it wont.

Could someone tell me what I'm doing wrong and secondly, if ther LED breaks is there a specific model I should replace it with (I want to change it to blue anyway).

All help gratefully received

Shoog · 19th February 2006, 06:38 PM

It is a bit of a design issue with the LED. If you can use a soldering iron I would suggest splicing in a little bit of extra cable. Simply cut the cables (making certain to note which lead is which) and solder in an extra 6inchs- or even better use the opportunity to change to a blue one. If you do this the Blue LED may burn a little dimmer than the red it is replacing. Even if you don't have soldering iron experience you could use electricians joining blocks. If you don't do this then tube rolling will become a real pain.

I would caution against the benefits of tube rolling with this particular valve buffer. It is run at such low voltages that I suspect that the tube used as stock is specifically chosen for it sound qualities in this unit. Changing to another tube might not produce happy results. In the one I used to have I tried Mullard ECC88's and found the result much to soft for my taste.

I think a more useful improvement could be had by beefing up the 12VAC power pack.

Shoog

gsrai · 19th February 2006, 07:55 PM

Thanks for that, I just cant seem to push the Led out so cant figure out how to change it to a blue one (do you know how to decide on which model of LED to use) - as you can see I am a complete novice to this and dont want to mess things up but am very intrigued!

kepa1 · 19th February 2006, 08:29 PM

Hello,

Normally you could do without desoldering the LED, just unscrew all 6 screws from the black panel and gently pull the silver panel. That's it!

Shoog is right about the issue of changing valves, not that it is dangerous, but the X-10D alrady have 6922s.

Bye

gsrai · 19th February 2006, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by kepa1
Hello,

Normally you could do without desoldering the LED, just unscrew all 6 screws from the black panel and gently pull the silver panel. That's it!

Shoog is right about the issue of changing valves, not that it is dangerous, but the X-10D alrady have 6922s.

Bye

Kepa1
Thanks for the note, I thought the X10-D had ECC88 and they were poor quality hence why I bought some jan philips - have I wasted my money?

Shoog · 20th February 2006, 07:30 AM

Any LED should do the trick. It may be dimmer because different coloured LEDS have different voltage drops and the circuit is set for a particular voltage drop - shouldn't be a big issue, if at all.

The 6922's in the X10D are surprisingly good sounding. I have used them in different situations and they haven't been noticably worse sounding - maybe a bit bass shy. When running a valve at such low voltages and probably currents their particular sound will come out more, if this is slightly less than neutral then the sound will be less neutral than running the same valve at higher voltages.

A 1A 12VAC power supply will help to bring up the bass of the X10D.

Shoog

arnoldc · 20th February 2006, 07:34 AM

here's a DIY X-PSU

http://www.rock-grotto.co.uk/easyxpsu.htm

andrew_whitham · 9th August 2006, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by gsrai

Thanks for the note, I thought the X10-D had ECC88 and they were poor quality hence why I bought some jan philips - have I wasted my money?

Just to bring this back from the dead, If you have "surplus" 6922's, see if you can get the heater voltages to match. Since each channel is in one envelope they dont always even out - Had just 5v on one in mine.

Careful though when measuring these might only have 12vAC input but theres 60vDC across the tubes

Andy

adason · 9th August 2006, 03:26 PM

here is nice link for you gsrai
http://www.rock-grotto.co.uk/x-ccessories.html

theadmans · 21st October 2006, 03:29 PM

I have just bought an x10d and although I am pretty happy with the upgrade in sound in provides with it's original Philips 6922 tubes I am tempted to buy some ECC85s to try in it from Ebay.

As a complete novice when it comes to tubes I would like to know what the following description on Ebay really means:-

"Tubes are in perfect physical Condition, The tubes were examined with the tube tester of neuberger RPM 375 (one of the best tube tester) with the following results:

a) 13/15 mA
b) 13/11
(10mA=100%)"

I have seen tubes advertised as "matched" pairs - if I buy the above tubes are they likely to be suitable for my x10d.

Also is it really that difficult to swop the tubes in the x10d (comments above suggest having to lengthen the LED lead) ? I have a single Philips screw on the back panel as well as a couple of Hex screws. On the front panel there are a couple of hex screws. Do you need to remove both the back and front panels to swop the tubes?

19th February 2006, 01:48 PM	#1
gsrai diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: West Midlands	Musical Fidelity X10-D - changing tubes problem Hi everyone As you can see I am new to this forum but could really do with some advice (sorry if this is in the wrong section). I have just bought an X10-D tube buffer (round one) so I can play with the tubes and I have also bought some Jan Phillips 6822's. I've opened up the tube and when I pull the board out the back it stops half way because the LED is wired in at the front. I've tried pushing the LED but not too hard so it pops out but it wont. Could someone tell me what I'm doing wrong and secondly, if ther LED breaks is there a specific model I should replace it with (I want to change it to blue anyway). All help gratefully received

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19th February 2006, 06:38 PM	#2
Shoog diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Eire	It is a bit of a design issue with the LED. If you can use a soldering iron I would suggest splicing in a little bit of extra cable. Simply cut the cables (making certain to note which lead is which) and solder in an extra 6inchs- or even better use the opportunity to change to a blue one. If you do this the Blue LED may burn a little dimmer than the red it is replacing. Even if you don't have soldering iron experience you could use electricians joining blocks. If you don't do this then tube rolling will become a real pain. I would caution against the benefits of tube rolling with this particular valve buffer. It is run at such low voltages that I suspect that the tube used as stock is specifically chosen for it sound qualities in this unit. Changing to another tube might not produce happy results. In the one I used to have I tried Mullard ECC88's and found the result much to soft for my taste. I think a more useful improvement could be had by beefing up the 12VAC power pack. Shoog

19th February 2006, 07:55 PM	#3
gsrai diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: West Midlands	Thanks for that, I just cant seem to push the Led out so cant figure out how to change it to a blue one (do you know how to decide on which model of LED to use) - as you can see I am a complete novice to this and dont want to mess things up but am very intrigued!

19th February 2006, 08:29 PM	#4
kepa1 diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Paris	Hello, Normally you could do without desoldering the LED, just unscrew all 6 screws from the black panel and gently pull the silver panel. That's it! Shoog is right about the issue of changing valves, not that it is dangerous, but the X-10D alrady have 6922s. Bye

20th February 2006, 07:30 AM	#6
Shoog diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Eire	Any LED should do the trick. It may be dimmer because different coloured LEDS have different voltage drops and the circuit is set for a particular voltage drop - shouldn't be a big issue, if at all. The 6922's in the X10D are surprisingly good sounding. I have used them in different situations and they haven't been noticably worse sounding - maybe a bit bass shy. When running a valve at such low voltages and probably currents their particular sound will come out more, if this is slightly less than neutral then the sound will be less neutral than running the same valve at higher voltages. A 1A 12VAC power supply will help to bring up the bass of the X10D. Shoog

20th February 2006, 07:34 AM	#7
arnoldc diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Makati	here's a DIY X-PSU http://www.rock-grotto.co.uk/easyxpsu.htm

9th August 2006, 03:26 PM	#9
adason diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: home sweet home	here is nice link for you gsrai http://www.rock-grotto.co.uk/x-ccessories.html

21st October 2006, 03:29 PM	#10
theadmans diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2006	I have just bought an x10d and although I am pretty happy with the upgrade in sound in provides with it's original Philips 6922 tubes I am tempted to buy some ECC85s to try in it from Ebay. As a complete novice when it comes to tubes I would like to know what the following description on Ebay really means:- "Tubes are in perfect physical Condition, The tubes were examined with the tube tester of neuberger RPM 375 (one of the best tube tester) with the following results: a) 13/15 mA b) 13/11 (10mA=100%)" I have seen tubes advertised as "matched" pairs - if I buy the above tubes are they likely to be suitable for my x10d. Also is it really that difficult to swop the tubes in the x10d (comments above suggest having to lengthen the LED lead) ? I have a single Philips screw on the back panel as well as a couple of Hex screws. On the front panel there are a couple of hex screws. Do you need to remove both the back and front panels to swop the tubes?

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