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#31 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chicago
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Quote:
For the 100nF, I'm not sure I understand where it would be placed. By top of the programming resistor, does this mean right where B+ first connects to the CCS? And for bottom of the cathode circuit, is that just ground? Quote:
Pete's original schematic (http://www.pmillett.com/images/lowmu_sch.PDF) used a 7236 (though he does suggest the 6as7 as ao option.) I think I can use it by changing just a couple of resistors, so I might give it a shot too. -d |
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#32 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Yes, and yes, to 100nF positioning. RF oscillation can sometimes show up as microphony.
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#33 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Aveiro-Portugal
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Quote:
I have called attention for the fact (post# 16 ) , that probably the noise came from the CCS...but nobody care... dsavitsk..what is the voltage between the anode of the tube and the + rail?...I suspect that the transistors are in saturation state , therefore having a very low impedance between the tube anode and power rail..
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Jorge |
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#34 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chicago
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Quote:
Quote:
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#35 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Aveiro-Portugal
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Quote:
Can you try to put the capacitor that I told you in post # 16 and see if the noise change anything..?
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Jorge |
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#36 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Madrid
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I agree with Tube dude. It takes 5 minutes.
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#37 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Aveiro-Portugal
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Quote:
Hi stalker Specially because the LEDs are only biased at 2 mA , to low for a LED , I'm afraid...
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Jorge |
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#38 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chicago
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Some updates:
I increased the bias on the led's to 4mA (Doc at Bottlehead actually suggests biasing to 10% of the current over 10mA whilePJ says 20% I may increase closer to 8mA at some point to see what happens.) I also put a 1uF film cap across each one of the led's. I tried some of the noisy tubes, and they were still noisy. They may have been a little less noisy, but not hugely. However, I happen to be fortunate to live down the street from Triode Electronics (down the street is relative here. Chicago is a big place.) I called them, and even though their website says they are closed on Saturday and they don't list the 6080 as a tube they carry, they told me they had some and I could come in to get them. They sold me a couple of Philips JAN 6080WC's. I've only tried one of them so far. At first there was a high pitched squeel -- less like oscillation, and more like ringing due to vibration. This went away after about 20 minutes. Other than that, almost all of the noise is gone. The tube does not seem to sound quite as good as the Tung-Sol. The Tung-Sol had a huge open sound (though part of that may be microphonic reverb) while this one is a little dead and muffled sounding. It is getting better -- or I am getting used to it -- with use. So, thanks to everyone who has helped here. I think there is more to be done, but at least for now things are working reasonably well. -d |
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#39 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chicago
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I seem to have been premature here in declaring everything okay ...
Most of the major noise is gone, however, I am now getting a high pitched squeel that comes and goes. It could just be that it is this tube's special noise, but I doubt that. There are 1uF film caps across each LED in the CCS as in the schematic above. I also added 0.1uF VitQ caps to bypass the cathode bypass caps -- this improved the sound remarkably. I did measure the caps before installing them, but I am open to the possibiliy that one of them is leaky and that they are the culprite -- I don't remember the squeel before putting them in. It does not change as the volume changes. However, I also think that I should pull out a lot of the wiring and rethink the grounding. Any thoughts on things to look at before doing this, whether a leaky cap is a possibility, and ways to improve the grounding scheme? -d |
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#40 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Bypassing an LED with 1uF won't do much. An ideal (for this purpose) red LED has a slope resistance of about 5R, and even a less than ideal red LED is likely to be less than 20R. 1uF will only begin to affect 20R at 8kHz, and would only affect the best red LED at 32kHz.
I think you're right, it's the grounding (isn't it always?) that's likely to be the problem. Star ground the whole thing to one point. Even if it doesn't cure the problem, it's the right way to go.
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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