Looks like walnut.
walnut it ain't......Although Frank is one helluva smart guy he doesn't know everything.
The wood actually is some root veneer (wurzelholz in german) over cherrywood.
Thanks eeka chu!
Re: C3G headphone amp
hi oliver
you can try removing the 1000mf rubycon. this will reduce gain and change the tonal balance.
Stixx said:This is my first ever tube project, actually my first ever electronic project ....
A headphone amp based on a design I found on the german site "Jogi's Roehrenbude", which definitely might sound unpronouncable for some...
It uses a tube made for the german post in the 60's (?) and that was used in audio repeater amplifiers for long distance.
The only changes to the original schematic are using a tube rectifier and way more chokes....It worked instantly not frying any parts and I only had some minor grounding issues.
Sound is promising and relaxed, although still a little "boomy", like some emphasis on the middle bass registers. Anyone got suggestions how to improve that?
rgds,
Oliver
hi oliver
you can try removing the 1000mf rubycon. this will reduce gain and change the tonal balance.
So cool chassis man!!!
Stixx,
your schema so real simple and we know that simplest is the best in audio.
Second, you have too much choke, my preamp's using 12AX7 just use one 5H, it's still OK. So, I think you can check again your caps! You might think about some caps have better quality like Blackgate or some germany mark Telsa or ...(I don't remember).
What does your choke 10H and 102R mean? usually we mark it 10H 50mA. And your caps do not show polar or non-polar. Could you tell us more detail about them, or just take a photo bottom of your amp, OK?
But most of all, you're real good skill man, I've never done some things clean and perfect like yours.
Cominup
Stixx,
your schema so real simple and we know that simplest is the best in audio.
Second, you have too much choke, my preamp's using 12AX7 just use one 5H, it's still OK. So, I think you can check again your caps! You might think about some caps have better quality like Blackgate or some germany mark Telsa or ...(I don't remember).
What does your choke 10H and 102R mean? usually we mark it 10H 50mA. And your caps do not show polar or non-polar. Could you tell us more detail about them, or just take a photo bottom of your amp, OK?
But most of all, you're real good skill man, I've never done some things clean and perfect like yours.
Cominup
Hi,
You probably mean the ones made by the former Tesla crew now trading under the JJ/Tesla brandname.
Very good caps...
Considering the BG prices have hit the roof once again and rumour persists that we're not going to see a successor any day soon, I'd recommend them wholeheartedly even though their current range won't be a one on one replacement.
Cheers,
You might think about some caps have better quality like Blackgate or some germany mark Telsa or ...(I don't remember).
You probably mean the ones made by the former Tesla crew now trading under the JJ/Tesla brandname.
Very good caps...
Considering the BG prices have hit the roof once again and rumour persists that we're not going to see a successor any day soon, I'd recommend them wholeheartedly even though their current range won't be a one on one replacement.
Cheers,
Yep,
I'm feeling that you have had some complaination about BG, dude! OK! Both of us knew that BC is the most un-reasonable expensive.
I command stixx about this cap only one cause, his schema is very good, so I just think about his spare parts' quality. And the first one crashed my mind is BG cap. I don't know much about stixx's county, like me, I can borrow from some friend some BG caps to check it out before my decision.
Second, stixx's amp is so good, but he still be , means he's a real audiophile and recommends so high sound quality more than me. To fullfill this, BG is the best in my knowledge, OK!
Kindly,
Cominup
I'm feeling that you have had some complaination about BG, dude! OK! Both of us knew that BC is the most un-reasonable expensive.
I command stixx about this cap only one cause, his schema is very good, so I just think about his spare parts' quality. And the first one crashed my mind is BG cap. I don't know much about stixx's county, like me, I can borrow from some friend some BG caps to check it out before my decision.
Second, stixx's amp is so good, but he still be , means he's a real audiophile and recommends so high sound quality more than me. To fullfill this, BG is the best in my knowledge, OK!
Kindly,
Cominup
underside
Cominup, Blackie,
thanks for the words of encouragement, means a lot to me!
I think my amp just needs more mileage, those tubes must have been resting in their boxes for decades....
Attached you'll find a pic of the underside. Parts quality actually isn't too bad, most caps used are BHC Aerovox, the first C in the psu is an Arcotronics mkp, and the coupling caps are Siemens mkv 10uF!
You can find pretty much everything here in Germany, you just have to be willing to pay for it. And a 100uF BG cap for the psu goes for around 80 Euro which is roughly 105$.......
That denotes the dc resistance, total voltage draw of the amp is around 34mA.
Thanks again,
Oliver
Cominup, Blackie,
thanks for the words of encouragement, means a lot to me!
I think my amp just needs more mileage, those tubes must have been resting in their boxes for decades....
Attached you'll find a pic of the underside. Parts quality actually isn't too bad, most caps used are BHC Aerovox, the first C in the psu is an Arcotronics mkp, and the coupling caps are Siemens mkv 10uF!
You can find pretty much everything here in Germany, you just have to be willing to pay for it. And a 100uF BG cap for the psu goes for around 80 Euro which is roughly 105$.......
What does your choke 10H and 102R mean?
That denotes the dc resistance, total voltage draw of the amp is around 34mA.
Thanks again,
Oliver
Attachments
You have some BHC Aerovox's in there it seems. Are you able to compare them with anything you've used so far?
I have a couple of BHC's and I'm thinking of using them for the PSU on my amp, but I'd need to buy a higher voltage.
They're made here in the UK, so a lot of store carry them... RS and Farnell both do.
I have a couple of BHC's and I'm thinking of using them for the PSU on my amp, but I'd need to buy a higher voltage.
They're made here in the UK, so a lot of store carry them... RS and Farnell both do.
You have some BHC Aerovox's in there it seems. Are you able to compare them with anything you've used so far?
eeka chu,
yes, those are BHC Aerovoxes 100uF 385V. I havn't had the chance to compare them to anything since this is my first amp. I just bought them because of their good reputation.
And btw, I bought 'em at RS Germany! Good place for shopping.
I also found out that the slightly boomy sound I described in my first post has to do with hum on the right channel....left channel is quiet as a tomb! So I have to look for that and probably change my wiring a bit.
PS I once had a pair of Onix OA901 mono's that were also british made. They had a pair of HUGE BHC caps in them. Great amps, now replaced with british vintage iron....Leak.
rgds,
Oliver
Re: S-5 Electronics K-12M Tube Amp (front)
hey gio-
generally you want to orient the power trannie core at a right angle to the output tranformer cores to avoid EMF coupling and noise...it looks like you have enough real estate for it not to be a problem but something to bear in mind for future projects...
nice work BTW!
gmilitano said:I have finally completed my S-5 Electronics K-12M Tube Amp.
Here is a picture of the front
hey gio-
generally you want to orient the power trannie core at a right angle to the output tranformer cores to avoid EMF coupling and noise...it looks like you have enough real estate for it not to be a problem but something to bear in mind for future projects...
nice work BTW!
Re: Re: S-5 Electronics K-12M Tube Amp (front)
Thanks for the tip. I did not know that. I have the space, so I may move it around when I get to doing some mods.
Regards,
Gio.
noisenyc said:
hey gio-
generally you want to orient the power trannie core at a right angle to the output tranformer cores to avoid EMF coupling and noise...it looks like you have enough real estate for it not to be a problem but something to bear in mind for future projects...
nice work BTW!
Thanks for the tip. I did not know that. I have the space, so I may move it around when I get to doing some mods.
Regards,
Gio.
My St35 from www.diytube.com
Hi all,
this is my first DIY tube amp. It's based on the ST35 project from http://www.diytube.com with a microcontroller controlled relay attenuator, bias measurement and of course it is remote controlled
Jochen
Hi all,
this is my first DIY tube amp. It's based on the ST35 project from http://www.diytube.com with a microcontroller controlled relay attenuator, bias measurement and of course it is remote controlled
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Jochen
well... here's my design;
a preamp using SRPP topology, about 20dB gain, first it was constructed using 6CB6 but now i have changed to E88CC, they sound slightly better after all.. but 6CB6 ain't horseshit
the chassis was made with a thin plexifront, just to make it look more like the Norwegian "Electrocompaniet"-gear, i will change the green LED to a blue one later..
a preamp using SRPP topology, about 20dB gain, first it was constructed using 6CB6 but now i have changed to E88CC, they sound slightly better after all.. but 6CB6 ain't horseshit
the chassis was made with a thin plexifront, just to make it look more like the Norwegian "Electrocompaniet"-gear, i will change the green LED to a blue one later..
Attachments
hallo here is my amp a SE A2 811A driven by a 807 in triode mode as catodefollover. and some nise EAM86 in the front to measure the signal. power out ca 2x 15W. Im now busy building a SE A2 250TH with 300B as driver. that wil give me at last 40W out
TYOR
TYOR
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